African Splendour

07/07/2023

Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard!

Mzo Msuthu, Thapelo Ernest

09/01/2022

10/07/2020

Chinchilla top tips

Chinchillas are not happy alone, so you should get two at the same time if possible

The minimum cage size for a pair is around 1m x 1.5m floor space, by 1.3m tall, with shelves at different heights.

Raisins and sultanas are ideal treats for chinchillas and can be used as a reward in training too

Chinchillas as pets

Before choosing a chinchilla as a pet, you need to consider that they can live for up to 15 years. They are lively animals and mostly nocturnal so they are not ideal as children’s pets – and children need to be supervised when handling them

If you are buying a young chinchilla it’s best to see the babies with the mother and ideally, other chinchillas from the same family. The adults should all look healthy and the cages should be clean and spacious. The breeder should ask you lots of questions and offer information about how to care for chinchillas.
There are now some chinchilla rescue organisations that may have unwanted adults or young looking for caring homes and charities like Blue Cross sometimes have chinchillas brought in for rehoming.
Chinchillas are not happy alone, so you should get two at the same time if possible. Litter-mates will live happily together but if they are not the same s*x make sure the male is neutered to prevent them breeding.

Housing chinchillas

Chinchillas are usually kept as indoor pets and this is best for our climate. They can survive in quite cold temperatures but draughts can be very dangerous for them so they must be kept in a draughtfree environment. They are prone to heatstroke in warm conditions, so never put their cage in a sunny window. Being nocturnal, it’s probably best not to put them in a bedroom.
Chinchillas are quite large for a small pet and they are very active so they need plenty of space. The minimum cage size for a pair is around 1m x 1.5m floor space, by 1.3m tall, with shelves at different heights. Chinchillas should be allowed out for supervised exercise as much as possible and at least once a day. In the bottom of the cage use dustextracted bedding or shredded paper.
Chinchillas need an enclosed bed to sleep in during the day. This needs to be big enough for all the animals in the cage to curl up together if they want to, but there should be enough boxes for each chinchilla in case they want their own space. Wooden boxes are ideal, but whatever you use will eventually be chewed and need replacing.

Introducing chinchillas

To introduce a new chinchilla to one you already have, put them in separate cages side by side, about 10cm apart. This way they can smell each other without physical contact. Put their beds at opposite ends of the cages so they feel they have somewhere to escape to. Give each chinchilla its own dust bath, butswap these over daily so that they get used to each other’s scent.
Over a week or so, move the cages and beds closer until the chinchillas are sleeping next to each other. It’s important to introduce them slowly to avoid fights. When the two seem to be living happily side by side, put the existing chinchilla into the new chinchilla’s cage. They may take to each other straight away or there may be some initial squabbling. If this seems serious, separate them again for a few more days, but things should eventually settle down. It’s usually easier to introduce animals of the opposite s*x (make sure the male is neutered first) or to introduce a young chinchilla to an adult.

Exercise and training chinchillas

Chinchillas are nocturnal, so they’ll be asleep for most of the day. They are most active in the early evening so this is a good time to get them out for a run. Make sure they’re supervised because they like to explore everything with their teeth and this can include electrical wires.
Before allowing your chinchillas out to run around the house, you need to be confident that you can catch them again. Chinchillas can become tame with a little time and training. When your chinchilla comes forward, stroke it gently under the chin. Do not try to catch them the first time this happens, just give them a treat and let go so they don’t associate you with being caught. Raisins are one of their favourite treats so offer these from your hand. Be careful because a frightened chinchilla will stand on its back legs and spray urine in the face of any potential threat!
Once your chinchilla is confidently taking treats and allowing you to stroke it, you can let it out. Start with quite a small space and then try offering a treat so your pet learns to come to your hand. Don’t try to catch your chinchilla yet but give the treat and let go again a few times.
To pick up your chinchilla, support the whole body on your hand and gently restrain them by holding the base of the tail. Never pick a chinchilla up by the tail – this can hurt them and could cause a serious injury. A frightened chinchilla that is being too strongly held will shed handfuls of fur so, if this happens, you are being far too rough.

How to clean a chinchilla?

In the wild, chinchillas use fine sand to keep their coats clean and in prime condition and you need to provide this for them in the form of a dust bath. Chinchilla dust can be bought from most pet shops. Never use ordinary sandpit or builders’ sand as this is too coarse and will damage the chinchilla’s fur and skin.

The bath needs to be large and deep enough for your chinchilla to roll around in without injuring itself, so the dust should be about 10cm deep. Chinchillas should be offered a bath once a day, for about 20 minutes. If the bath is left longer than this, it may become soiled and your chinchilla won’t want to use it. Change the dust at least once a week. Also check their eyes because a buildup of dust can cause eye problems.

What do chinchillas eat?

Chinchillas are herbivores and, in their native South America, they eat grasses, low-growing green plants and chew the bark off trees. Chinchillas need a diet high in fibre and protein but low in moisture and fat. High fat foods will give them liver disease and greens which are too lush will cause colic or make them bloated. A diet lacking in fibre causes poor gut movement, allows their teeth to become overgrown and can even lead to fur chewing. They also need a high vitamin C diet, so they must not be fed rabbit mix.
Chinchilla foods are available to buy in pet shops. The pellet type is best because with mixes your chinchilla may pick out favourite bits, leading to an unbalanced diet. The pellets you feed your chinchilla should be rationed to about one tablespoon per day for a healthy adult.
Pellets are not enough on their own though – chinchillas also need a constant supply of good quality hay. Put the hay in a small rack and refill it every day. As with all animals, make sure there’s a constant supply of fresh drinking water.

Chinchilla treats

Raisins and sultanas are ideal treats for chinchillas and can be used as a reward in training too. Avoid feeding your chinchilla too many though to make sure they still see raisins as a treat.
Some chinchillas also enjoy a little slice of fresh vegetable, like carrot, but take care not to give them too much because it may cause diarrhoea. Peanuts and sunflower seeds should be avoided, as they are too high in fat.
Do not give them too many treats because this can cause an upset stomach.

Chinchilla dental care

As with all rodents, chinchilla teeth are always growing so they need plenty of hard material to eat and chew on. A piece of apple wood or rodent toys from pet shops for them to nibble will help prevent dental problems.
Sadly, even the best-kept chinchilla may develop problems with their teeth and these can become serious if left untreated. Signs to look out for include reluctance to eat, drooling and wetness under the chin and runny eyes. If your chinchilla shows any of these symptoms it’s important to ask your vet to check their teeth.

How to stop chinchillas fur chewing

Fur chewing may be a sign of stress, boredom or poor diet. Chinchillas are social animals and need the companionship of another chinchilla. If you do have just one you need to spend lots of time keeping them entertained – grooming, playing and handling – but please do consider getting a second chinchilla for company.

Chinchillas that are not given hay may start to chew their own or their companions’ fur to make up for the lack of fibre in their diet. If you move house or move your chinchilla to a new location in your house, this could cause stress-related fur chewing. Whatever the cause, fur chewing is a difficult habit to break so prevention is better than cure.

28/06/2020

How to Take Care of a Ferret

Ferrets are often compared to cats and dogs. Like cats, they sleep a lot and can be trained to use a litter box. Like dogs, ferrets are social and crave the company of people. But the truth is, ferrets are in a category all their own. With their friendly, inquisitive natures and furry, cuddly bodies, ferrets make great pets, given the right pet parents. If you’re considering purchasing a ferret, learn more about their care needs, including what you’ll need and how to keep your ferret healthy, below.

Ferret Facts
Ferrets are a member of the weasel family that weigh between one and a half and five pounds as adults and can live between six and ten years, according to the American Ferret Association (AFA). They tend to sleep a lot—18 to 20 hours a day—and are most active in the early morning and evening.

Male ferrets are called “hobs,” while female ferrets are called “jills” and baby ferrets are called “kits.” A group of ferrets is known as a “business.” They come in shades of tans, browns and blacks, with various color combinations and patterns and are usually neutered or spayed and de-scented when they are between five and six weeks old to reduce odor and aggression.

Ferrets have a friendly, playful nature, enjoy being around people and love attention. Ferrets are very intelligent and can be trained to come when called, use a litter box and even perform a few tricks. They require constant supervision when outside their cage, however, and are not recommended for children under six years old as they can bite. Ferrets also like to steal things and hide them, and enjoy exploring (particularly when there’s an opportunity to squeeze into a tight space).

Ferrets are also prone to a variety of health problems, which can make them an expensive pet, and will often chew things and swallow foreign objects, making ferret-proofing essential.

While ferrets make good companions for larger house pets with careful introductions and supervised interactions, ferrets should be kept away from birds, rabbits, hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs and reptiles.

Life with Ferrets
Consider the following details as you determine whether or not to purchase a pet ferret:

Their environment: ferrets have a reputation for being escape artists, single- or multi-level, open wire cage designed for ferrets with a solid floor and a secure door for your ferret’s home. Due to lack of ventilation, glass enclosures (such a fish tanks) are not recommended. The cage should be located in a quiet area where the temperature can be kept between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and should include bedding (like a towel, blanket or old shirt) that should be washed a minimum of once per week. A litter box that fits in the cage should be filled with recycled newspaper products or aspen shavings. Avoid cedar and pine shavings, which can irritate the respiratory tract, and clay or clumping cat litter, which may be ingested by ferrets, Clean the litter box daily.

Their diet: ferrets are carnivores and should eat premium commercial food that is high in fat and protein and specifically formulated for ferrets. They should not be fed dairy products, fruits, vegetables, or foods high in fiber, carbohydrates, or sugar, Johnson said. And, of course, ferrets should have fresh water every day.
Their activity: because ferrets like to chew and swallow things, their toys must be sturdy and have no small parts that can be broken or pulled off. Toys made of foam rubber, latex, or plastic that might be chewed should be avoided, Johnson said. If possible, create “ferret-proofed” area for playtime by covering openings into walls, blocking spaces behind cabinets and removing any appliances or breakable items. Ferrets love interacting with their people, so be sure to spend time at least one hour with them every day and consider having more than one ferret to help keep them entertained.
Their coats: ferrets are naturally clean animals and groom themselves often. They shed twice a year, however, and should be combed during these times to remove loose fur, in addition to regular nail trimmings and monthly teeth-brushing, regular baths with shampoo made for ferrets can help tame a ferret’s naturally musky odor but should not be given too frequently.

Health Issues for Ferrets
the biggest misconception about ferrets is that because they’re small and live in a cage, they won’t be expensive, but ferrets are susceptible to variety of health problems, including ulcers, gastric problems due to ingesting foreign objects, and diseases of the adrenal glands and pancreas.

Adrenal gland disease can also occur in ferrets over two and the cause is unknown. The most common signs of the disease are hair loss, particularly on the tail, hips and shoulders, Johnson said. Adrenal gland disease can be treated by surgery to remove the gland or through hormone therapy.

Insulinoma (a tumor of the pancreas that produces excessive amounts of insulin) is common in older ferrets, the most obvious sign of which is the animal’s sudden collapse that can last minutes or hours and, in severe cases, seizures, Johnson said. The progression of insulinoma can be slowed with drugs including the steroid prednisolone or surgery to remove a portion of the pancreas followed by drug therapy.

Preventive Care for Ferrets
Ferrets should have a complete physical examination every 6 to 12 months from a veterinarian who has experience with ferrets, in addition to the following preventive care:

Annual vaccinations for canine distemper virus and rabies
Annual f***l examination for parasites
Examination for ear mites as recommended
Year-round use of heartworm and flea preventives year-round
Annual dental cleaning
Routine blood tests and measurement of fasting glucose level as recommended
Toenails trimming as needed
Ferret rescue organizations take in many ferrets whose owners surrendered them because of their health issues, particularly adrenal gland disease, Johnson says. Others are surrendered because of behavior problems, like biting. Therefore, it’s important to understand upfront what it takes to take care of a ferret on a daily basis and the costs that could be incurred over its lifetime.

17/05/2020

Baby dove brought to us a few days ago fell from nest doing very well

17/05/2020

Amazing what a little tender loving care can do! Found this little finch almost dead on the floor. Nursed it for a day and was bright eyed and bushy tailed again! Released into the garden yesterday, sat in the tree for about 10 minutes looking at me before flying off free