02/18/2026
How the Codfish saved Lent.
If it was exotic spices that drove Europeans to explore the East, a far more prosaic menu item sent them to the West--fish. By the early Middle Ages, the Church's guidelines on fasting meant that a large portion of the European diet was made up of fish. Not just during Lent, but also for the 40 days of Advent, as well as every Friday and Wednesday throughout the year and on other fast days, whether regularly scheduled or called for a specific purpose.
Alas, many places had already been overfished by this time, and the Mediterranean Sea was badly depleted of many species. Wealthy nobles as well as monastic houses built fish ponds, where carp and other fish could be cultivated. Still, it was a hard time to be a peasant, unless one lived hard by a river or ocean.
Eels were a common menu item, usually smoked and dried. Some areas of England saw them used as a form of currency, for example in Ely, the abbey there receiving 10,000 eels annually from its tenants in the towns of Outwell and Upwell.
Northern European fishermen soon took to sea in search of herring, and vast fortunes could be made. Dried and salted, the herring could be barreled and shipped far inland, and many a medieval farmer's family saw many a herring on the dinner table. Alas, herring had many drawbacks. They were unpredictable in their locations, meaning that fishermen had to chase them over many miles of rough water. Worse yet, the oily nature of herring means that they must be preserved artificially, using a combination of woodsmoke and salt. Salt was expensive, and so was preserving herring. Too little salt and all your carefully packed barrels of fish would arrive spoiled and inedible.
Then came the codfish. It was probably the Basque, that most secretive and insular group, who unlocked the mystery of the cod. Vast armadas of Basque ships were seen sailing West from Ireland, where all the locals knew there was nothing but dragons. The Basque ships came back with their holds filled with dried cod, fished up from...God knows where. It was nothing short of a revolution.
Codfish, being lean, require nothing but wind and sun to preserve them. Catch a cod (so easy to do that many times they could be caught on a bare hook), gut it, split it and hang it to dry in some windy place. Once dry, the fish will keep virtually forever. For example, the Dude worked in a museum nearly 30 years ago, on the wall of which hung a dried codfish. Nobody could remember when it had been put up there, perhaps during the Bicentennial? It was hard as a cedar plank and about as appetizing, but I am sure it could have been soaked and served. I bet it hangs there still.
Codfish opened the way for exploration of North America. The Basques were doing a brisk trade in cod by the 1540s, and others began to wonder where they were finding these amazing fish. Dried cod, called stockfish, almost completely drove herring off the Lenten table. It was easy to ship, easy to store, and required no lengthy curing, salting or smoking. All that was required to make it ready for the table was to "freshen" it in water, then cook as desired. This was especially desirable in hot climates, as the stockfish could be kept without issue. Thus it is still a very popular dish in many Caribbean cultures.
As for the Dude, we kept meat-free Fridays in Lent when he was small, although we were Protestant, although it was only many years later that it dawned on me. Usually, that meant Mrs. Paul's Fish Sticks, which is a hard comedown from medieval standards, but still better than a slightly rancid herring.