Colorado Master Gardeners - El Paso County

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, June 13, 2026
Year Round Gardening - It’s not too late for Zinnias!
Article and photo by Fredricka Bogardus, Colorado Master Gardener Emerita

Zinnias may be at the end of the alphabet, but if you are looking to fill some garden bare spots it should be at the top of your list! Annual zinnias (Zinnia elegans) are widely available, both as seed and plants. They come in a rainbow of colors, and many sizes.

Annual plants are those that complete their lifecycle in one season. Because the plants start from seed each growing season, they are prolific bloomers, yielding large amounts of seed in one season. They flower from early summer until the autumn frost.

Zinnias thrive in full sun (a minimum of 6 hours per day at summer solstice), they tolerate heat, harsh western sun and wind. They are really tough. Keep plants or seeds moist until they establish. Well-draining soil is preferred. If you are planting seeds, plan on about a week for germination in warm soil (60-70ᵒF). Since they grow quickly, direct seeding in June will provide several months of vibrant blooms. They are highly deer resistant.

The long bloom season and vibrant colors attract and provide nectar for pollinators. To keep blooms accessible by pollinators, select single and semi double blooms over the frillier double and cactus blooms. Your garden will soon be buzzing, fluttering and humming with bees, butterflies and humming birds.

In addition to providing some garden color, zinnias make great cut flowers. Since flowering is so prolific you can enjoy the color both in the garden and in your home. Deadheading will encourage more blooms. Seed is easily collected in late summer. They are tropical plants so they will not reseed on their own in our climate. If you want zinnias next year, save some seed.

There is another kind of zinnia to consider, Zinnia grandiflora or plains zinnia is native to Colorado. It is a perennial plant that tolerates light shade and native soils, even dry calciferous soils. It is a low-growing perennial is a 6-8 in. mound-shaped plant with numerous bright-yellow flowers. As a native it benefits native insects and butterflies. For more information on this plant and many other native plants, check out the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center (https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=zigr).

While this native is not the garden drama queen of its tropical cousins. it is a great perennial to add to your garden.
Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help desk is open 9 a.m.-noon and 1-4 p.m. Mondays ,Wednesdays and Thursdays at 17 N. Spruce St.

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, June 6, 2026
Year Round Gardening - Coping with Deer in the garden
Article and photo by Fredricka Bogardus, Colorado Master Gardener Emerita

El Paso County is blessed, or perhaps cursed, with very healthy deer herds. While the deer can be fun to see, especially the spring babies, they can frustrate gardeners by treating the garden like an all you can eat restaurant.

Physical barriers like fences are very effective as long as they are tall enough that deer cannot just jump over (6-10 feet tall). If fencing is not an option for you, then the best choice may be plant selection.
Deer are primarily browsers, not grazers; understanding that distinction can help with plant selection. Browsers primarily rely on leaves, and twigs for food. You may see them nibbling at your lawn, but they will do no harm; grassy plants, even ornamentals, are rarely damaged by deer.

Deer avoid plants with strong aromas, including many members of the mint family; examples are thyme, bee balm, lemon balm, salvias (both annual and perennial), and hyssop (Agastache sp.). Alliums are also not appealing to deer. They also will avoid very hairy abrasive foliage like that found in the borage family. Examples include lungwort, forget me nots, and false forget me nots. Many plants in the aster family will be avoided by deer, good examples are Shasta daisies, Echinacea, and yarrow. Plants that have thorns or milky sap are avoided by deer.

Finally, there are the poisonous plants, Euphorbias, daffodils, monkshood, bleeding heart, foxglove, Lenten and Christmas roses, irises, milkw**d, peonies and dogbane. Deer may nibble at these plants but they are unlikely to damage them severely.

In early spring deer seem to eat whatever they can find, especially the fawns. Don’t be too alarmed if you find something nibbled at, many plants are resilient enough that a bit of pruning early in the season will just stimulate some new growth and the plants will survive, This may be an ideal time to apply chemical repellents to discourage that spring nibble fest. The smelly repellents may ruin their appetite long enough for them to avoid the plants.

If deer regularly visit your garden, check for deer resistance before buying new plants. Frequently the plant label may indicate deer resistance but it is a good idea to double check before buying. Here are some great sources.

Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance is a searchable data base (https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/).

El Paso County Native Plant List for Deer Resistant Plants (https://elpaso.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/44/2022/09/Deer-Resistant-Native-Plants-07-06-2022.pdf).

DEER-RESISTANT/ WATER WISE PLANTS is a publication of Colorado Springs Utilities. (https://www.csu.org/Documents/DeerResistantPlants.pdf?csf=1&e=IwlkB4).

Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help desk is open 9 a.m.-noon and 1-4 p.m. Mondays ,Wednesdays and Thursdays at 17 N. Spruce St.

Join us for a free Wildfire Resilient Landscaping webinar on June 16th at 6pm featuring a panel from fire departments across the Front Range. Register here: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_oBmGbvZ6REWLx5oPHs0Skg #/registration

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, May 30, 2026
Year-Round Gardening – Gardening Calendar for June
By Kerry Peetz, Colorado Master Gardener, Emerita

What a wild ride the weather has delivered over the past several weeks. Hard freezes and record-breaking days of unusually warm temperatures, even our plants were confused! Assuming we are now headed in the right direction (cross your fingers) it’s time to get down to business.

June General Maintenance
• Remember “Water Wise Rules” are in effect until October 15. Here is the link: https://www.csu.org/water-wise-rules/
• Check mulch depth to confirm 2 – 3 inches to retain moisture and help reduce w**ds.
• W**d, w**d and more w**ding. Stay ahead of them or they will get out of hand.
• Keep your gardening tools clean.
• Start moving a few houseplants outside for the summer once nighttime temperatures are at least 60°F.
• Check your pots and hanging baskets regularly, especially those in full sun and exposed to wind. Sometimes the pots will need to be watered more than once a day.
• Consider setting up a rain barrel. This saves drinking water resources and money: According to the US EPA, 30% of daily water use is used outdoors. Using the rain barrel's stored water around the landscape saves the amount of water purchased from municipal sources.

Flowers
• Nasturtium, marigold, zinnia, sunflowers, hyacinth bean vine, morning glory and cardinal flower vine seeds can be sown directly in the soil.
• Stagger the days when planting gladiola corms to extend bloom period.
• If needed it’s a good time to stake leggy plants like delphinium, liatris and foxglove.
• Plant new perennials. Pay attention to your placement and the plant’s specific needs.
• Deadhead perennials as this will encourage new blooms.

Lawn
• If you haven’t fertilized yet this season, do so now.
• Mow as needed to maintain grass at a height of 2 to 3.5 inches. Leave grass clippings on the lawn for an extra boost of nitrogen.
• Pay attention to sprinkler system maintenance. Watch for leaks and repair promptly.

Trees and Shrubs
• To increase the quality of your apple harvest, try hand thinning. Space fruit approximately 8 inches apart on branches. You’ll be happy you did.
• Keep broken, diseased and desiccated branches pruned off and cleaned up.
• Don’t forget to water your established trees and shrubs when the temps are high.

Vegetables
• Direct sow seeds for corn, lima beans, cantaloupe, pumpkin, watermelon and zucchini now. Is there anyone who really likes lima beans? Please send recipe.
• Transplants of tomatoes, cucumber, summer squash, and pepper can be planted early June.
• Thin lettuce, onion, and chard plants. This will increase the quality of the remaining plants.
• Tame the spread of those rascally raspberry plants. Pluck them out or pot them up and share with friends.
• Basil can be pinched back all summer long for a continuous, delicious harvest of leaves. (Of course, botanically speaking, basil is an herb and not a vegetable).

Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help
Is open, every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9-12 and 1-4. Visit our website at
elpaso.extension.colostate.edu and register for upcoming classes at epcextension.eventbrite.com.

Water Wise Rules Water Wise Rules help our community save water for the future while allowing us to maintain vibrant and healthy landscapes.

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, May 23, 2026
Year-Round Gardening – Composting

By Debra Stinton Othitis, Colorado Master Gardener, Emerita

Garden Trivia: Composting dates back to ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians and Romans, who used organic waste to enrich soil.

Composting is the natural, accelerated decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms (bacteria, fungi) into nutrient-rich soil conditioner. It is a relatively simple and rewarding procedure.

Compost-amended soil improves soil structure, enhances moisture retention, and promotes healthy microbial activity, fostering robust plant growth and reducing the need for chemical fertilizers. Compost, often called “black gold” by gardeners, can be used in potting mixes or mixed in with garden soil. In addition to its many benefits for your plants, it recycles materials that may otherwise be thrown into landfills where it emits harmful greenhouse gasses.

Organic material can easily be composted at home using composting bins, purchased or DIY. Even a simple, small hole/pile can work. Whatever system you choose, the key is to vary the kinds of materials that go into the mix. There is no precise recipe--just common sense.
There are two basic categories of ingredients:

“Green” Nitrogen-rich Materials
• Kitchen scraps, free of meat, dairy, fats, and oils
• Grass clippings
• Coffee grounds
• Leaves
• Garden debris, free of diseases and w**d seeds
• W**ds, free of seeds
• Shrub and tree trimmings smaller than ¼” in diameter

“Brown” Carbon-rich Materials
• Hay
• Straw
• Dried leaves

For optimum processing, the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in your compost needs to be around 30/1--typically the combination of two parts green materials with one part brown materials. Compost piles too high in carbon will be slow to process. Those too high in nitrogen develop strong ammonia odors. Layer green and brown materials in your compost bin not more than 2” deep for fine materials and 6” deep for coarser materials.

The breakdown of organic yard and kitchen waste is a biological process dependent on microorganism activity that requires favorable temperatures (ranging from 70°-140°F), moisture, oxygen, and nutrients. With our limited rainfall in Colorado, it may be necessary to add moisture regularly to your compost, because if it dries out, microorganisms may die. Ideally, the pile should be moist like a damp rag. If too wet, it may not have enough oxygen for the decomposers.

Turning the pile periodically helps create air spaces to provide microorganisms with necessary oxygen and can eliminate any unpleasant odors if the pile is becoming too wet. Although turning your pile will accelerate decomposition, but it is not required.
Detailed information on composting can be found athttps://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/246.pdf

If you do not compost at home, consider contacting Food to Power, a local, non-profit organization offering residential curbside pickup and affordable, pay-what-you-can drop-off composting in Colorado Springs. https://foodtopowerco.org/compost

Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person Help Desk is open, every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9-12 and 1-4. Visit our website at elpaso.extension.colostate.edu and register for upcoming classes at epcextension.eventbrite.com.

Community Composting — Food to Power We make it convenient to compost with pay-what-you-can collection services including curbside pickup service and dropoff locations. Get finished compost back twice a year.

Our Master Gardener Help Desk is open for the season and our volunteers are ready to answer your gardening questions! We can help diagnose plant issues (including trees!), help with plant and insect identification, give you resources tailored to your garden, and even help you select the right plants for your goals. You can visit our in-person help desk on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday or tune into our Zoom "office hours" on Tuesday evenings. Zoom link: https://zoom.us/j/94701106011?pwd=wp1cPiaQhoeinloZeAKBU89fot32MH.1

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, May 16, 2026
Year Round Gardening - Frost Damage in Your Garden
By Amalie Fellini, Colorado Master Gardener

With a warmer and drier spring than normal, many plants were in full bloom when cold weather snapped back this year. Insulating new growth from freezing temperatures is the best way to keep your plant healthy and happy, but it’s not always an option. If you couldn’t protect all of your budding buddies, don’t fret, your garden might just look a little different this year.

While the freezing temperature of water is 32ᵒF many plants are not damaged until the temperature falls to about 28ᵒF. The exception to that is tender annual plants native to warmer regions. Do not plant those until danger of frost has passed.

Recognizing frost damage
There are various signs of injury that a plant can exhibit after a frost. Flowers that have been damaged by frost will turn brown and become limp. Flower buds that have not opened can shrivel and dry, becoming dark brown in color. On fruit trees, frost damaged buds make the tree more susceptible to disease. Fruit trees in bloom when a frost occurs have varying susceptibilities to injury based the stage of blossom or fruit development. Tightly closed buds are quite resilient and can tolerate temperatures as low as 15ᵒF, fully opened blooms or newly formed fruit will be damaged at 28ᵒF, While the trees will likely survive frost, there may not be any fruit production this year.

Leaves with frost injury may appear droopy and water-soaked initially. They may darken and new leaves may show some signs of damage as they emerge. Most established plants will shed their damaged leaves and grow new ones., don’t assume your plant is dead if it drops many leaves after a frost.

Woody twigs or stems can also be affected by freezing temperatures. Any branches that start to appear wrinkly and gaunt should be removed later in Spring to allow the plant time to recover. In conifers, frost damage can make the tips of shoots curl up. Later in the season new growth may appear wilted and brown. This is commonly mistaken for pesticide damage.

What to do
Frost damage is not a death sentence; plants will typically revive with a little help. DO NOT rush to prune away damaged foliage! Pruning can cause undue strain on the plant, invite pests in, and leave new growth unprotected. Additionally, damaged does not mean dead. Wait a few weeks before removing anything, new growth will help make the extent of the injury more obvious.
Bulbs are well insulated in the soil and will continue to grow year after year, even if their foliage dies off in the cold. Remove spent flowers, leave foliage in place to die back naturally.

Freezing temperatures reduce a plant’s ability to absorb water, leading to dehydration and stress. Deep watering can help your plant recover more quickly after a frost. To prevent strain on your garden, refrain from fertilizing. Fertilizer encourages new growth, which is significantly more susceptible to the cold. It is better to wait until the threat of frost has subsided before adding any fertilizer.

Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help desk is open, every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9-12 and 1-4. Visit our website at elpaso.extension.colostate.edu and register for upcoming classes at epcextension.eventbrite.com.

Check out this fun story on miller moths, featuring El Paso County Horticulture Specialist, Allisa Zurbuchen.

Miller moth migration swarms Colorado (COLROADO) — The annual migration of Miller moths has begun, with the insects arriving in Southern Colorado. These moths travel from the eastern side of the state to the mountains for cooler air ea…

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, May 9, 2026
Year-Round Gardening - Water Saving Tips for Gardening
Kim Snowdon, Colorado Master Gardener Emerita

"When the well is dry, we learn the worth of water." - Benjamin Franklin

Colorado has set lots of records this winter, but almost none of them good from a gardening standpoint. Record low snow pack and record high temperatures mean we're likely facing strict water restrictions this summer. Many communities have already implemented restrictions. According to Colorado State University, 40-50 percent of home water usage is watering gardens and landscapes. So it's vital that we use water wisely to make the most of this invaluable resource.

Lawn:
Understand current water restrictions in your area, including days and times. Make sure sprinkler systems are working properly. Effective irrigation considers soil type, slope, and exposure.
Install rain sensors on irrigation systems and only water when needed. If you walk on your lawn and it springs back, it doesn't need watering. If your footprint remains, the lawn is thirsty.
Water lawns and gardens late at night or early in the morning to reduce evaporation. Avoid running sprinklers when it's windy. Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep roots.
Aerate your lawn to increase moisture pe*******on and to promote root growth

Trees, Shrubs, Perennials:
Prioritize watering expensive landscape trees and shrubs. Allow lawn to go dormant in extreme drought. It will recover when you can water again.
Consider drought tolerant plantings. Native species are often better suited to our high desert climate.
Group plantings according to water requirements so that you're not overwatering more xeric plants.
Get to know your plants. Some will wilt in the heat of the day but this may not indicate that watering is needed; check soil moisture first, perhaps using a moisture meter.
Keep w**ds under control so they don't compete with desired plants for moisture.
Apply 2-4 inches of mulch to perennial beds to retain soil moisture, reduce evaporation, and moderate soil temperatures. Rock mulch may be more appropriate at home foundations to reduce fire risk.
Plant groundcovers; soils shaded with leaves will lose less moisture.
Water at the base of plants, either with hose sprayer directed at the soil, soaker hoses, or with drip irrigation. Avoid overhead spray that increases evaporation. Drip systems should be installed below mulch to insure water pe*******on.

Consider other household tasks and avoid water, if possible, such as sweeping garden walks instead of washing off. Homeowners are allowed to install up to two rain barrels to collect and store gutter runoff. These storage containers must be covered, and no larger than 55 gallons each. The collected water can be used for irrigation. Gardening and water conservation can work together with careful and strategic planning.

https://source.colostate.edu/drought-prep-how-to-save-money-and-water/
https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/methods-to-schedule-home-lawn-irrigation/
https://dwr.colorado.gov/services/water-administration/rainwater-storm-water-graywater
https://epccd.org/rain-barrels/

Submit gardening questions to [email protected] or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help
Is open, every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9-12 and 1-4. Visit our website at elpaso.extension.colostate.edu and register for upcoming classes at epcextension.eventbrite.com.

Rain Barrels – El Paso County Conservation District The El Paso County Conservation District agrees that the lawful collection and use of rainwater using rain barrels is a great way to water residential lawns, gardens, and landscapes. We are now selling complete rain barrels and DIY kits.. Please visit the store at https://epccd.org/shop/ and explore...

Published in The Gazette, Saturday, November 22, 2025
Year Round Gardening - Winter Watering
By Kim Snowdon, Colorado Master Gardener Emerita

"Autumn, the year's last, loveliest smile." -William Cullen Bryant

Autumn in Colorado has been especially beautiful this year, showcasing leaves ablaze with color, but it's also been very dry. Winter watering is critical in our arid high desert climate. Trees, shrubs, lawns, and perennials should be watered 1-2 times per month during prolonged dry spells between October and March. December, January and February are typically dry, windy months in our region, evaporative water loss can desiccate plants. The damage may not be noticeable until spring. Water early in the day when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit with no snow cover to allow moisture to soak in before temperatures drop in the evening.

TREES-
Established large trees have a root spread equal to or greater than the height of the tree. Focus watering within the drip line (the edge of the canopy where rain drips down) from the edge of the canopy to halfway to the trunk and 2-3 times this distance out from the canopy.

It's even more important to water newly planted trees. Trees with a smaller diameter trunk will establish quicker. For example, in ideal climate and soil conditions, a one-inch diameter tree will take one year to establish. A two-inch diameter tree will take two years to establish.

Tree types especially sensitive to dry winters are birches, maples, lindens, dogwoods, willows, and mountain ashes. Evergreen species are also vulnerable because they don't lose their foliage.

Water several locations around the tree to assure good distribution, about 10 gallons of water per 1 inch of trunk diameter (measure 6 inches above the ground) using hose-end sprinkler, soaker hose, or a deep root watering fork.

SHRUBS-;
Give 5 gallons of water twice a month for newly planted shrubs. Large established shrubs benefit from approximately 18 gallons of water once a month. Water within the shrub drip line and at the base of the shrub.

LAWN-
Deep, infrequent watering, soaking to a depth of 3-5 inches once or twice a month is better than more frequent shallow watering. Areas that receive more sunshine or are exposed to wind or on a slope will need more water than areas that are shady. Make sure water isn't running off the surface. Avoid watering on windy days.

PERENNIALS-
Water requirements may vary. Bare root plants take longer to become established than container plants and may need more water. Fall plantings may take longer to establish than spring planted, but cooler temperatures in autumn lessen the stress on new plantings. Those planted in more exposed sunny or windy positions will require more water.

Applying mulch, especially around the perennials, will help moderate soil temperatures and protect delicate roots from potential soil heaving.
Caring for your trees, shrubs, lawn, and perennials during the dry winter months will go far to ensure they thrive next year.

Submit gardening questions via ask.extension.org and they will be routed to El Paso County Master Gardeners or call 719-520-7684. The in-person help desk is closed for the season. Questions submitted via Ask Extension will be answered remotely and phone messages will be answered biweekly.