18/09/2021
“On the basis of interviews with big hitters of the region, the book recounts the almost feudal battles that are waged to change the classification of a château . . . In just twenty years, this wine has lost its magic aura. The decent, less well-off wine-lover must now search out a lesser known producer who is more faithful to tradition and more respectful to nature. Thank goodness such people do still exist.”—La Presse (Canada)
“Vino Business addresses head on the ‘law of silence’ that surrounds the 2012 St.-Émilion classification, as well as the effects of the high doses of pesticides that are used in some of the most reputed vineyards in the world. . . . Judging by the reaction to its publication it seems that this book, which concludes that more transparency is needed regarding the fabrication and classification of these great wines, is asking the right questions."—Le Parisien
"The seemingly idyllic vineyards surrounding St.-Émilion are depicted as the setting for a sordid soap opera. . . . The author, investigative journalist Isabelle Saporta, doesn't hold back in questioning the French institutions and traditions that the country's wine industry prides itself on. She's also forthright in her writing on certain individuals. . . . The book is a juicy read and is likely to sell a lot of copies.”—Wine-Searcher.com (United Kingdom)
“[In Vino Business] the criteria for the St.-Émilion classification are roundly criticized—as they should be. . . . The 2012 classification is being once again attacked in court. If any of the litigants win, that will surely be the definitive end of it.”—BordeauxWineEnthusiasts.com
“There is a vicious power game going on behind the beautiful façades of Bordeaux châteaux. . . . an intriguing book. . . Among the most famous and prestigious châteaux, vino business is deadly serious and, just as in love and war, all methods seem to be fair. If you thought the châteaux were all good neighbours, then you have deceived yourself. . . . [Vino Business] reinforces my belief that classifications are completely unnecessary, not to say directly bad for consumers.”—BKWine.com, Sweden
“[Saporta] laments (both in the book and her interviews) how regions like St.-Émilion that were once home to family producers have given way to multi-millionaire investors. She added that it was easiest to see in Bordeaux as it is the richest region in France but that similar parallels might be drawn in Champagne or even Burgundy.”
