27/04/2023
Barrio Escalante
San José, Costa Rica
For a long time, Costa Rica’s capital was somewhere you’d pass through to get to where you were going. But recently a generation of local chefs have returned home, having travelled and trained around the world, and honed in on Barrio Escalante, lending Calle 33 a new nickname: Paseo Gastronómico. Many are bringing a sense of urgency to their country’s proud (but increasingly threatened) legacy of hyperlocality. The restaurant Franco has redirected some of Costa Rica’s best coffee – historically exported – into local hands, whilst Sikwa works closely with indigenous Bribri farmers to reproduce ancient, native recipes. Meanwhile, Isolina Restaurante has mastered a distinctive fusion of fine dining and home cooking in what used to be the home of the Escalante family, after whom the area is named. It sources its seasonal ingredients from small producers, resulting in an irresistible menu: try the arracache hash browns, yams in seabass broth, and veal cooked in caramelized garlic and served with hibiscus reduction.