24/09/2025
Utrinki iz raziskovalnega dnevnika
Changthang, 4. del
Do stare gompe Shara Chumig, ki leži v hribovju nad vasjo Shara, je potreben vzpon, ki traja okoli 45 minut. Gompa, ki spada pod šolo drigung kagju, se ponaša s čudoviti poslikavami iz 16. stoletja, na katerih je med drugim prikazan tudi Milarepa in nekaj jogijev. Neprecenljive so tudi stare tanghke, ki smo jih dokumentirali; na eni izmed njih je naslikana jogini Niguma in različne tantrične prakse. Nad gompo je meditacijska votlina z dvema nišama, v eni so postavljene bele tsa-tsa figurice, na steni pa je napis v tibetanščini. Izpred vhoda v votlino seže pogled na Ind. Prijazni domačin, ki nam je razkazal gompo, nam je še povedal, da naj bi se nekje v bližini nahajala še ena votlina, kjer naj bi meditiral Padmasambhava.
Ob vznožju hribovja na katerem leži gompa Shara Chumig stoji Kagan čorten, velika votla stupa, ki v notranjosti skriva najstarejše poslikave v Changthangu. Zaradi vetrne erozije so poslikave žal v slabem stanju. Skrbno smo jih dokumentirali, prav tako pa poslikave v Upshi čortenu, v bližnji vasi Upshi.
Ta dan smo dokumentirali še votline Upshi-Shera. Ker se nahajajo v pečini na nasprotni strani Inda, smo jih lahko fotografirali le od daleč s teleobjektivom. So delno porušene, ni pa jasno, ali so bile uporabljene za meditacijo ali zgolj za bivanje.
Naslednji dan smo raziskali in dokumentirali kar tri skupine meditacijskih votlin. Ob vasi Meru so ohranjene še tri meditacijske votline, v vasi pa smo odkrili tudi staro zapuščeno gompo. Votline in eremitaže Sasoma bi lahko poimenovali meditacijski center, saj smo našteli vsaj 17 bolj ali manj ohranjenih meditacijskih votlin in pa tri eremitaže zgrajene v skalno steno, med katerimi je ena zagotovo še v uporabi. Na vrhu pečine v kateri so votline, pa stoji vrsta čudovito ohranjenih starih vrstnih čortenov, kar je arheološka redkost. Pri kraju Rumtse smo našli 15 obstoječih, večinoma velikih votlin, ki so imele veliko izkopanih niš v obliki sedečega človeka in za oltarje ter jaškov izkopanih v tleh, namenjenih za shrambo.
S tem smo zaključili naše delo v Changthangu, naslednji dan pa smo obiskali še dva meditacijska centra. V centru Gotsang nad gompo Hemis, vodilno in največjo gompo v Ladakhu, so bili jogiji v meditacijskem odmiku, zato z njimi nismo mogli govoriti. V centru Igoo Khaspang pa smo srečali starega in skromnega jogija, ki ga je ravno obiskala njegova družina. Z njeno pomočjo smo lahko naredili kratek intervju z njim.
Foto: Sebastijan Pešec
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Glimpses from the Research Diary
Changthang, part 4
To reach the old Shara Chumig gompa, which lies in the hills above the village of Shara, one must climb for about 45 minutes. The gompa, belonging to the Drigung Kagyu school, boasts beautiful 16th-century paintings, including depictions of Milarepa and several yogis. Equally invaluable are the old thangkas we documented; one of them portrays the yogini Niguma and various ta***ic practices. Above the gompa lies a meditation cave with two niches; one of them holds white tsa-tsa figurines, and on the wall of the cave is a Tibetan inscription. From the cave’s entrance, one can gaze out over the Indus. A kind villager who showed us the gompa also told us that somewhere nearby, there is another cave where Padmasambhava is said to have meditated.
At the foot of the hills on which the Shara Chumig gompa stands is the Kagan chorten, a large hollow stupa that hides within it the oldest paintings in Changthang. Unfortunately, due to wind erosion, the paintings are in poor condition. We carefully documented them, as well as the paintings in the Upshi chorten, located in the nearby village of Upshi.
That day, we also documented the Upshi-Shera caves. Since they are located in a cliff on the opposite side of the Indus, we could only photograph them from afar with telelens. They are partially destroyed, and it is unclear whether they were used for meditation or simply as dwellings.
The next day we explored and documented three groups of meditation caves. Near the village of Meru, three meditation caves are still preserved, and in the village, we also discovered an old abandoned gompa. The caves and hermitages of Sasoma could be described as a meditation center, as we counted at least 17 more or less preserved meditation caves, as well as three hermitages built into the rock face, one of which is still definitely in use. On top of the cliff containing the caves stands a row of beautifully preserved old row-chortens, an archaeological rarity. Near the settlement of Rumtse we found 15 existing, mostly large caves, with many niches carved in the shape of a seated person, as well as altars and shafts dug into the ground for storage.
With this, we concluded our work in Changthang. The following day, we visited two more meditation centers. At the Gotsang center above Hemis gompa – the main and largest gompa in Ladakh – the yogis were in meditation retreat, so we could not speak with them. At the Igoo Khaspang center, however, we met an old and humble yogi, who happened to be visited by his family at the time. With their help, we were able to conduct a short interview with him.
Photo: Sebastijan Pešec