Kikisake-shi SG

CAN THE SHAPE OF RICE BE TASTED?

IMADA Shuzo brewed two Ginjo using identical materials, including the same yeast, rice strain, and polishing ratio. The only difference between them is the shape of the polished grain: Genkei, which retains the original shape of the grain, and Henpei, which is flattened.

Theory suggests that geometry influences protein removal and rice dissolution, hinting at subtle differences in clarity or texture.

In practice, both are elegant, modern, aromatic Ginjo sake. For most drinkers, even seasoned tasters, the differences are so subtle they vanish within normal bottle-to-bottle variation.

Such a comparison is perfect for academic debate on brewing precision and a testament to how far polishing engineering has advanced. It reminds us that sake brewing is as much about philosophy as it is about flavour.

Both are undoubtedly enjoyable sake, showcasing precision at the grain level. Curious? Ask, and we can explore together.

TWO JUNMAI GINJO FROM KAGOSHIMA

Sake brewing in Kagoshima is a relatively recent development, having emerged within the last decade. The region currently has only two sake breweries, both backed by established shochu producers with deep fermentation expertise. Despite its youth, Kagoshima is steadily establishing a distinct presence in the sake world.

Two modern Junmai Ginjo from Kagoshima exemplify this evolution; each is meticulously crafted, shaped by the region’s relatively warmer climate, and reflecting the quiet confidence of experienced brewers. Although they share the same grade, the intent behind each brew differs, making this more of a study in style and sake regionality than a direct comparison.

Tenbu Junmai Ginjo (Black label)

Brewed by Nishi Shuzo, Tenbu is polished to 50%, a level typically associated with Junmai Daiginjo. However, the brewery chose to classify it as Junmai Ginjo, despite its JDG-like refinement. It opens with aromas of banana and mixed fruits, followed by subtle sweetness from Yamada Nishiki. The palate is rich yet smooth, with light acidity and a short, graceful finish. Priced about 50% higher than Sasshu Masamune, Tenbu’s elegance makes it particularly suited for light food, as an aperitif or for leisurely sipping.

Sasshu Masamune Junmai Ginjo (White label)

Brewed by Satsuma Kanayama Kura, one of Hamada Shuzo’s production facilities, Sasshu Masamune uses Kagoshima-homare, a local rice variety polished to 60%. In keeping with the brewery’s philosophy of using local ingredients, the moderate polishing yields a fuller profile that highlights the rice’s natural character. The sake opens with aromas of apple, pear, cedar, and mushroom, leading to a medium-bodied palate with gentle sweetness, notable acidity for its grade, and a clean, crisp finish. Versatile and food-friendly, it complements a wide range of dishes.

Though Kagoshima’s sake history is brief, its voice is already distinct—modern, confident, and quietly assured.

EGAOHYAKUAYAKU JDG

BREWED by Takeno Shuzo on Kyoto’s lesser-known western coast, which faces the Japan Sea—rather than the typical Fushimi—this sake represents the top grade of the series.

This sake is designed to be enjoyed on its own or as a gentle introduction to a meal. The aroma is inviting, featuring scents of ripe apples, some say pineapple, and a hint of melon. On the palate, there is a subtle sweetness from the rice that appears briefly before fading away. It doesn't boast any fireworks; instead, it exudes a quiet charm. While it is a favorite among many, it remains modest.

Takeno Shuzo takes some bold approaches: fermentation that extends beyond two months, acidity that rises above 3, and a bottle that carries a price tag which certainly turns heads. We will come to these another time.

TATSURIKI AKITSU JDG VINTAGE 2015

CHANCED upon this elusive bottle at Kansai Airport — an unexpected find. After ten years of ageing in the temperature-controlled room at Honda Shoten in Himeji, the sake has emerged mellowed and beautifully rounded.

It remains remarkably aromatic, opening with a vibrant array of fruits: pineapple, melon, and apple. Over the years, the alcohol and acidity have integrated seamlessly, resulting in a silky, harmonious sip that glides effortlessly.

Unfortunately, it is now completely sold out, with only 1,000 bottles produced.

ZAKU ETSU JUNMAI GINJO

Crafted for the domestic market and quietly placed in select restaurants, this sake remains a rare find beyond Japan’s borders.

A modern-styled Junmai Ginjo, it leans dry, with a gentle touch of residual sugar that softens its edges. The aroma opens with a blend of mixed fruits—subtle notes of melon and apple layered with restraint. On the palate, its mild acidity is well-balanced, offering a clean counterpoint to richer dishes.

It pairs especially well with taro, cutting through its oiliness with finesse. The finish is short, precise, and quietly satisfying.

ONKOCHISHIN 温故知新
Learning from the Old to Create the New
15 Exceptional Sakes. One Story. A Journey Through Evolution.
14 September · 16:00

A tasting that bridges forgotten styles and modern expressions for those who listen when sake speaks.

The Lineup:
15 sakes across three threads:
• Some specially brought in for this event
• A handful are limited releases that sell out quickly
• Current expressions from Yucho Shuzo, including Kaze no Mori

Featured styles include:
• Bodaisen — pre-Edo brewing reborn
• Bodaimoto — the yeast starter that shaped modern sake
• Kaze no Mori — cult expressions that challenge convention

Yucho Shuzo: Bold by Design
They polish rice less, revive forgotten records, and reimagine tradition — quietly, deliberately.
Pricing:
• Workshop: $160
• Dinner (5 sakes): $120
• Combo: $250

Early Bird (by 6 Sept): Combo includes a limited Kaze no Mori bottle — meant to be savored, not stored.

Only three seats remain.

Booking and information: [email protected]