Diana Joosten Dressage

10/09/2023

CAN YOU FORCE A HORSE TO DO SOMETHING THEY DON’T WANT TO?
I often hear "If he didn't want to, he wouldn't do it”. There seems to be a growing number of people on social media saying that you can’t make a horse something they don’t want to do. These comments could, for example, be in response to a film showing a horse displaying behaviours that indicate they are stressed (rushing, nipping, fidgeting, licking and chewing, showing the whites of the eye etc) when they are asked to jump, load, stand still or hack out alone.
It is clear many people don’t recognise the subtle (or even not-so-subtle!) signs of stress or fear in horses and they believe that if their horse didn’t want to do something there is no way anyone could make them, but it is not that straightforward.
It is actually very easy to make a horse do something they don't want to do. That's one of the reasons we can do so much with them, they are very tolerant of us and more often than not do as we ask. Therefore it's extremely important that we consider whether what we ask is right for them or not, that we learn to read our horses behaviour and body language and make sure they are confident and well-trained before we ask too much of them.
How a horse behaves in any situation depends partly on his past experiences. For example, a frightened horse who tried to escape being clipped for the first time could have been hit, then been tied fast in a pressure halter. So now their fear of experiencing pain is greater than their fear of clippers and so they stand still – they freeze.
Sadly, this is an all too common way of training horses. Rather than teaching the horse the clippers aren’t going to hurt by introducing them gradually and rewarding them for trying, increasing pressure is applied to force them to stand still.
The result is that the horse is still frightened of the clippers, but they are now also frightened of the pressure halter, the handler and perhaps even the environment they were clipped in. They will also have learned that their attempt to escape meant they would be hurt, so they may be less likely to try that tactic again in future and instead put up with the situation. The horse may actually end up in learned helplessness and give up trying to escape from other difficult situations too.
If we humans are frightened and don’t want to do something, surely we understand that adding extra pain, discomfort or fear to force us to face that situation won’t magically fix our original fear? So why do we believe it will fix a horse's fear?
Learning to recognise the early signs of fear/stress/anxiety/discomfort in your horse is vital. Potential Indicators of acute stress can include a raised head and neck position, tail swishing, pawing at the ground, shying, whinnying, increased oral behaviours (eg. mouthing the leadrope when led), the four Fs (flight, fight, freeze, fidget), tension in the facial muscles, showing the white of the eye, triangulation of the upper eyelid or an inability to concentrate.
If your horse starts to perform an unusual behaviour, take note! If the behaviour occurs because of something you do, does it stop when you stop, and then start again when you resume your behaviour? Watch your horse to see when it happens, notice what you are doing and what is going on the environment.
Always consult a vet if your horse’s behaviour changes suddenly and if they are clear of any physical issues then a certified behaviourist can help you.

24/07/2023

22/07/2023

https://youtu.be/hrZgtrqbMVI

The 24 Behaviors of the Ridden Horse in Pain is a film that dares to challenge the way we look at "badly behaving" horses, and promotes the notion that lamen...

14/07/2023

𝗖𝗮𝗻 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗿𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗴𝗻𝗶𝘇𝗲 𝗮 𝗻𝗲𝗿𝘃𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲?
One thing we have observed is that a nervous horse is not always a horse that is fidgety or that is running around and unaccepting of touch.
Often times a horse can hold a great deal of tension within its body and mind and:
- clench its jaw
- stiffen its tongue
-stiffen its poll
- compress its lips together tightly so that its chin becomes a hard little button
- breathe shallowly via pinched nostrils
That settled looking horse will be uneasy and unable to focus fully while being immobile and looking deceptively placid.
Despite a calm outwardly appearance that horse's emotions will be brewing on the inside.
Its body will be bracing and the training experience will be unpleasant for him/her and for the rider because the horse's mind will be distracted or defeated and the quality of his movement and ability to answer the rider's requests will be diminished.
In many ways, it is more complex to help a horse in this kind of deep, chronic state of overwhelm that has shut down than it is to calm down a horse that is just temporarily reacting to his environment and is filled with adrenaline. We offer gentle techniques to help both.
For example, TTOUCH Mouthwork helps unlock the horse's breath and body beautifully because of the acupressure points it activates in the mouth and because the moving of tense nostril, muzzle and lip tissues helps release the breath and the tension the horse holds in his jaw, tongue, poll and as a result in his/her entire spinal chain. Good breathing, relaxing the jaw, tongue, poll helps relax the mind and improve focus as well.
It is something most horses take to very quickly because it feels good. We always suggest checking the teeth/mouth for points or bit/contact injuries if a horse continues to resent this work. Tight nosebands can also bruise this area and make touch unpleasant and sadly some horses with histories of being hit in the face are justifyingly concerned with their face being touched and require a little more time, patience and softness.

08/07/2023

KNOWLEDGE & UNDERSTANDING.. are these our wisest aids ?
François R. de La Guérinière (18th century):
“Knowledge of the nature of the horse is one of the cornerstones of the Art of riding; and all horsemen should make it a main point of study... Without this theory, practice is always uncertain."
Alexis L’Hotte (19th century):
“Nature is the first of all masters. Its book is the fairest, most knowledgeable of all books... the most useful to consult.”
Philippe Karl (21st century):
"The mouth is a crossroad of numerous biomechanical synergies. Strong or continuous pressures on the tongue or sensitive bars are painful and traumatic, physically and pshychologically.
Nowadays, we have enough knowledge (physiology, biomechanics, motion, balance, ethology) to reject counter-nature riding concepts. Therefore let us study how to put the horse 'on the bit' by the light of these sciences.".............................................................
CONSEQUENCES OF NOT KNOWING:
In a mindset of 'submission' and from the position of low hands with tightly closed fists, our only option is to pull backwards. This leads to an inward brace of forceful pulling or 'sawing' the reins, and a stiff back to still hold or push with the legs. Riders fixate on enforcing control and immediate obedience. There is no consent or harmony, no dignity, elegance or grace.
The lower the hand, the harder it acts on the hypersensitive tongue. Tightly cranked nosebands preventing or stifling the horse's protests only make it worse, and more cruel.
In natural defence, horses attempt to protect their tongue by pulling it up out of the way, over the bit, to the side, or out. Failing that, they grind the teeth in tension and pain.
What on earth possesses an instructor to then advise a student to tighten the nose band for more torture? Without a chance for mutual conversation or dialogue, without a right of reply, the horse is reduced to a mindless senseless machine - a tool of sport or whim. I ask, is that why you wanted to have a horse?
UNDERSTAND YOUR ACTIONS
o Educate your mind and your hands, don't accuse the horse
o Understand the massive forces involved on frail structures
o Understand the consequences, short and long term
o Know the difference between prejudices & principles
o Ask questions, observe, reflect and reassess.
o Find confidence from curiosity, seek horse knowledge.
Happy riding

28/06/2023

Below you can find 5 important tips to help you to ride with feel (again).

Tip 1: Never forget why you started to ride!
memories-horsebackridingEvery now and then remember the time you started to ride. Why did you want to learn to ride? What feeling did you get the first time on a horse? What attracted you to horses? Do you remember the first time you did a rising trot? The first time riding canter?

I remember my first time on a horse. When the horse started to walk it was very impressive! These movements underneath me, the height, the feeling that a horse was willing to carry me, it gave me such a special feeling that I still can’t explain what it is I felt. I can relive it in memory, but I can’t put it into words, that’s how special it was.

As a professional trainer I know like no other how quick you retreat into your head when you want to understand and correctly execute certain exercises. By going back to how things were when you just started, you can get back to your feeling and keep in mind that it is not about achieving, but about fun.

Tip 2: Listen to your body
This may sound a bit weird, but many people are not aware of their body. They lack „body awareness”. This also shows when on a horse. If you lack body awareness while on the ground, there is a big chance you lack it on a horse as well.

Therefor: do a bodyscan regularly. You check your body in your mind, tensing and releasing each muscle, 1 by 1. Start with your head and end with your toes. Doing this regularly develops more feel and body awareness, and in time you will notice more quickly whether you have unnecessary muscle tension, for example when you are riding a particularly difficult exercise.

Body exercises like yoga or tai-chi are also very good for gaining more body awareness.

Tip 3: Breath consciously
Doing a breathing exercise while on a horse now and then is very good to get out of your head and back into your body and your feeling. There are many different breathing exercises that you can do, but I will give you a very simple one here:

First exhale fullyusing-your-breath-to-relax-when-riding-your-horse
Now inhale from your abdomen, meaning that your abdomen swells up first and the upper torso second. Relax the muscles in upper back, shoulders, chest and neck.
Now slowly exhale through your mouth. Shape your lips into an O. Try to tense as little muscles in your face as you can, only using those you need to make the O-shape. Exhale FULLY and repeat this cycle if needed.You will notice that you get calmer and calmer by doing this exercise, the calmer you are, the more feel you will have.
Tip 4: Use all your senses
use-all-senses-when-riding-horseTake your time to notice everything you see, hear, feel and smell while horseback riding. This exercise brings you into the moment completely.

What can you see when riding?
The air, the trees, the soil, the earth, the grass, flowers, insects, other people, horses in the meadow. But also your horse: its body, its mane, its ears… And don’t forget yourself: your legs, your hands, …

What can you hear when riding?
All the sounds in the environment: a child playing, a bee zooming by, the wind, the leafs rustling, a plane passing overhead, a car driving by,…
But also: the breathing of your horse, its hoofs hitting the soil or the street, your own breathing.

What can you feel while riding a horse?
The wind in your face, the heat of the sun, the cool of the morning, the droplets of rain on your hands, … But also the leather of the reins you are holding, the coat of your horse you stroke, the long manes you touch, the saddle or the blanket you are sitting on, the stirrups beneath your feet, the horse’s sides against your calves, …

What can you smell when riding?
Smells from your surroundings, carried by the wind, like flowers, trees, wet soil, but also less pleasant fragrances like the fumes of a passing car. But what can’t be trumped when you need calm and quiet, is the smell of the horse you are riding!

Tip 5: Be a passenger
riding-horseIf you notice that you are becoming to technical, try switching to „passenger mode”.

Don’t do, just sit. Let your horse carry you. You are now the passenger, not the driver. The horse chooses the destination.

Some people find it very liberating to be doing „nothing” while riding their horse, and enjoying it while they’re at it!

22/06/2023

The Rider Problem: The Outside Rein!
Among all of our riding challenges, this problem is the one that should be on the top of the list.

The outside rein is the most underused and poorly understood of all the aids, and here's why. Human beings, as bi-peds, are hand-fixated.

That is, we do EVERYTHING with our hands. Being vertically inclined, we lean forward and almost in all interactions, reach toward something with our hands. It stands to reason that we should use this same mechanism when it comes to riding. For example, steering a horse is as simple as steering a bike - just grab the rein on the turn side and pull! The horse's head turns in that direction, and the legs must follow.

Right?

WRONG!!

One of the most incomprehensible things that we humans have to deal with when we decide to ride horses, is to reprogram our natural tendency to lean forward and pull on the rein. It is a most unfortunate undertaking, as this natural inclination is so hardwired in us that it feels wrong to stay balanced on top of a moving horse and use our leg and seat aids before our hands. And so we start on a long journey of "re-wiring"...
and one of the most difficult concepts in riding happens to be the use of the outside rein. We become experts at riding with a tight inside rein and a loopy outside rein. We teach the horse to stiffen on the inside jaw and "pop" the outside shoulder. We ride up the rail with the shoulder "out" and the haunches "in" - almost moving diagonally without knowing it. If we only knew how simple it would be to allow the horse to move straight - using a straightening outside rein!

What to do?
The solution to the outside rein lies in the inside leg and seat bone. You've heard it time and again: "inside leg to outside rein". Well, it's not really about your leg - it's about the horse's balance. The horse needs to "step away" from your leg in order to take his weight more to the outside. This will help him stretch the outside of his body, bend toward the inside and "fill" your outside rein.

Your inside seat bone encourages the weight shift. It accepts the thrust of the inside hind leg and then shifts the weight even more to the outside. In this way, you help your horse balance as you go around the ring. And somehow miraculously, you discover you have an outside rein!

Now, it is your responsibility to maintain this new connection. That is, use the "contact" - don't abuse it by throwing it away! Give when needed, take when needed, resist when necessary (or preferably, do all three in a split second!). But by all means, keep it connected! If you can keep the rein straight, you will also keep your horse straight - through the shoulders and neck (your legs are responsible for the horse's hips).

So on your next ride, remember the outside rein. But remember even more, that it's not just about grabbing the rein - it's about setting the horse up through its body so that he "fills" the outside rein. Then, when you have one, do something with it!

Of course, this is just the tip of the iceberg. This is just the "irritating" thought - the one that sparks you on to delving deeper into the subject. We all know that finding that outside rein (correctly) is no easy feat. The best path to this solution is to find a competent instructor who can give you consistent, accurate feedback.

22/06/2023

7 Tips to Help You Sit the Trot
One of the most frequently asked questions I get is, “Can you help me sit the trot better?”
So here are some quick tips to help you with that all too common challenge.
First and foremost, your horse needs to be on the bit. If his back is hollow, stiff, or tight, you’ll find it impossible to sit comfortably. (And, in turn, you’ll make your horse uncomfortable too!)
Slow the trot down. Ride “sub-power” and when you can sit easily, increase the impulsion for just a few strides at a time. Then slow down again.
Put your horse on the bit in posting trot. Once he’s round, sit for just a couple of strides. Start posting again before you feel like you need to grip with your legs. Reorganize your body, and sit again for just a couple of strides.
Cross your stirrups over the front of the saddle. Post without your irons until your legs are tired. If they’re tired, you can’t grip so you’ll sit deeper.
Focus on your hips. Notice how they open and close in the walk. Mimic that motion when you’re in sitting trot.
Pretend you’re a belly dancer. As you swing your hips, use a buzz phrase like, “Do the hootchie kootchie”.
Hold the front of the saddle with your inside hand. Use that hand to pull you deeper into the saddle so you can learn the feeling of sitting close to your horse in sitting trot.

22/06/2023

Are you having issues going from walk to canter or canter to walk without getting trot steps?

Here are some tips:
For the canter to walk transition, practice many transitions from canter to canter on the spot for three strides. You need to be able to shorten the canter in this way before you can expect to come to the walk without trot steps.

In other words, your horse needs to be able to canter at the speed of a walk before you ask for walk.

Practice this on a circle. If he still trots, prepare by cantering on the spot and then HALT. Repeat and "think" halt, but soften at the last moment and let him step into the walk instead.

For the upward transition to the canter, close your outside hand in a fist as you ask for the canter so he doesn't trot through the depart.

20/06/2023

How Do I Get My Horse To “Go”?
When teaching your horse to “go”, focus on two aspects of “thinking forward.”
1. Taking responsibility for his own energy
2. Reacting to light aids
Responsibility
The first thing you need to do is teach your horse to take responsibility for his energy. It’s not your job to keep him going by “legging him”, spurring him, clucking constantly, or pushing with your seat.
To begin to teach your horse to take responsibility for his own energy, walk very actively. (Get the walk active any way you can at this point.) As soon as he slows down even SLIGHTLY, correct him by tapping with the whip or giving several sharp kicks until he trots.
Then go back to the walk. If he keeps walking actively on his own, praise him with your voice.
The moment he even thinks about slowing down, correct him again.
Praise him with your voice for as many strides as he takes without any help from you.
Reacting To Light Leg Aids
Once your horse takes responsibility for his energy and goes on his own, the second part, of teaching him to “Go” is to educate him to the driving aids.
The “go” aids include your seat, legs and, voice. Your horse wasn’t born knowing how to respond to these driving aids. You need to teach him to react to each aid individually. Your goal is to WHISPER with your aids, and have your horse SHOUT his answer. (Not the other way around!)
Teach your horse to react to light driving aids, by doing the following:
1. Give a very light aid. Remember that your horse can feel a fly on his side.
2. If your horse doesn’t respond to a feather-light aid, don’t adjust your aid by repeating it or making it stronger. (If you do, you’re letting him train you!)
3. Instead, correct him by tapping with the whip or giving several sharp kicks.
4. After the correction, go back to what you were doing originally (like a walk to trot transition) and RETEST with the original light aid. (Important: Never leave a question about reacting to your aids with the correction. If you do, you’ll only teach your horse to ignore you until you give a stronger aid.)
5. If you find yourself saying, “That was better”, or “pretty good”, or “good for him”, correct him again. If you don’t, he’ll just get progressively lazier.
6. Then go back to what you were doing, and RETEST right away. (You need to RETEST right away because horses learn by association. If you wait too long to RETEST, your horse will forget why he was corrected in the first place.)
7. When you get a 100% whole-heartedly forward reaction, praise your horse. (If you don’t praise your horse, it’s the same as punishing him.)
Some people think it’s harsh to “correct” a horse by kicking or tapping with the whip. But at the end of the day, it’s a lot kinder and more pleasant to train your horse to take responsibility for his own energy and to react to light driving aids than to nag, squeeze, and spur him every stride.

18/06/2023

How to Adjust Your Horse’s Tempo
Before we explore how to adjust tempo, I want to define the terms rhythm and tempo. I want to do this because many dressage riders use them interchangeably, and they don’t mean the same thing.
RHYTHM
Regularity of the rhythm refers to the even spacing between each step in a stride of walk, trot or canter. Regular rhythm is a priority for all work–whether or not you’re riding a pure dressage horse. Movements and exercises should never be done at the expense of rhythm. Rhythm should always stay the same. Tempo or speed, however, is a different matter.
TEMPO
Tempo is the rate of repetition of the rhythm. It's okay to adjust it depending on what your horse needs. Think of rhythm and tempo this way: a waltz is always done in 3/4 time. That is the rhythm of a waltz. But a waltz can be played faster or slower. In other words, the tempo can vary.
When should you ride at a tempo that’s different from the one your horse chooses? Let’s take an overly fresh horse as an example. You start your warm-up, and this horse is so excited that he picks up a trot that is much too quick.
The longer you let him go at this clip, the more his tension builds. Left alone, he probably isn’t going to slow down. He’s like an overtired child who is so wound up that he can’t quiet his mind or body. He needs you to help him calm down by asking him to trot at a much slower tempo than that of his normal working trot.
ADJUSTING THE TEMPO FASTER OR SLOWER
Slow the tempo by asking for a transition to the walk (or even the halt!). Then, just as your horse is about to step into the walk, don’t finish the transition. Instead, allow him to jog forward very slowly.
In other words, think about riding halfway to the walk, and then jog forward slowly. If he accelerates after a few strides, repeat the “almost” downward transition until he understands and is willing to stay in the slower trot. Ride him in this lazy tempo–the opposite of what he wants to do–until he relaxes. Once you feel him relax, gradually allow the tempo to become more normal.
On the other hand, let’s say you have a horse that tends to get too slow and labored in his tempo. For example, his canter becomes four-beat because the tempo is too slow. Quicken his tempo by doing a few strides of a lengthening. Feel how your seat moves faster during the lengthening. Then, when you shorten the strides, keep the same quick tempo by moving your seat as if you’re still lengthening.