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Filipino Food Month Celebration 2024

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Salted

The balance of salt content in a human body is vital. Too much or too little salt can wreak havoc: too much brings on high blood pressure, kidney ailments. Too little occasions nausea, cramps, dizziness, confusion. But salt, even a medical doctor avers, transforms foodstuff into something not simply edible, but also pleasurably palatable.

Salt making has been a human tradition for thousands of years. In the Philippines, there have been sundry ways of inducing these indispensable grains from seawater (all labor intensive and weather dependent).

In Batanes, seawater was poured into a 𝘬𝘢𝘸𝘢, a big wide-mouthed vat positioned on a wood-fed hearth of a trio of stones, its fire to be stoked for three days and three nights. Making salt was a continuous boiling and topping off with seawater until the third day, when all that remained of the brine was salt.

𝘈𝘴𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘪𝘣𝘶𝘰𝘬 of Bohol involves a longer complex process and takes months to draw out a solidified mound of salt. Using a similar method in Guimaras island in Panay Gulf, and in Capiz on Panay Island produced 𝘵𝘶́𝘭𝘵𝘶𝘭 𝘰𝘳 𝘥𝘶𝘬𝘥𝘰𝘬.

More familiar to many have been the 𝘪𝘳𝘢𝘴𝘢𝘯 or salt beds in the coastal towns of Cavite province. Seawater was let into the beds lined with clay tiles (from Vigan, someone observed), relying on the sun to beat down and dry up the water with the help of a breeze, bringing forth briny grains. Cavite’s Rosario City was once known as 𝘚𝘢𝘭𝘪𝘯𝘢𝘴, meaning salt flats or marshes.

The oldest salt beds, however, were found in Las Piñas (where they are hardly seen today), where salt making was an important industry that provided livelihood for its community.

With more than a thousand individuals engaged in salt making, rows of rectangular beds still yield salt in Pangasinan, the province said to derive its name from 𝘢𝘴𝘪𝘯, salt.

44. Making Salt, near Manila.
Postcard
Early 20th century
Private collection
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