The Histolinarya Collective, A.D.

AROUND SIX O'CLOCK, the fish mongers of Malabon gradually fill the streets with coolers of sea-food they have brought over from Navotas fish port. This particular street would become jammed by them during the height of the evening and fill the market with fresh catch; opposite of how other sea-food markets usually function.

KAMATSILE is a sponge cake biscuit whose shape resembles the name-sake fruit of the camachile tree. It is also known in Hiligaynon-speaking Visayan locations as kinamunsil (the Hiligaynon name of the afore-mentioned fruit-bearing tree). It is paired with the meriyenda fare that is pansit Malabon. Here are biscuits on display at the eighty-year-old landmark, Concepcion's Bakery.

The most famous specialty of Malabon is the eponymous PANSIT MALABON, a native noodle dish that historically highlighted the bounty of Manila Bay. It is often paired with a local pastry, kamatsile (also spelled as camachile; slightly bottom right on the image).

BUTSI (buchi ng Malabon) is another fritter that Malabon specialises in. A glutinous rice dough patty is filled with sweetened mung beans akin to the Chinese pastry jiandui (known in Chinese-Filipino communities as buchi/butsi), poached, and then fried while being coated in caramel. Another snack made available exclusively in the after-noon.

BALENSIYA (valencia triángulo). Here in Malabon, they do fried dessert wraps differently. One of them is balensiya, and you will only find these in the after-noon. These are saba bananas (some times with jack fruit included) wrapped in spring roll pastry, deep-fried, and coated in caramel... much like the turrón de plátano (also known as lumpiyang saging) found in other Tagalog communities. According to Malabon food guide Isi Laureano, the original version was square; but a creative entrepreneur later introduced a triangular variation to set her apart from the rest, giving rise to the name valencia triángulo. As for how "valencia" became synonymous with these caramelised banana parcels, the origin remains unclear. Perhaps some one, some day, will have the answer.

TORTANG ALIMASAG, as seen here in a market-place eatery. One of Malabon's specialties that reflect the fusion of Hispanic and Chinese influences.

BRAZO DE MERCEDES from Betsy's Cake Center. 450 pesos a roll.

COMING HOME TO MALABON. Isi Laureano took a Saturday off to return to her home-town of Malabon and visit the childhood abode where she grew up. She invited her friends, Sherwin Felix and me, to join her on a trip down memory lane.

Isi fondly recalled a home filled with love... and food. Her grand-parents prepared some of the most scrumptious Tagalog fare this side of the Manila-adjacent, from pinaksíw na isdâ and tortang alimasag to sarsiyadong bakà. And when ever she wanted more options, the neighbourhood karinderiya was literally right next door.

She reminisced about how the eskinita would celebrate New Year's Eve with a pot-luck, each household bringing some-thing special to the yearly festivities. It was this kind of deeply gastronomic environment that shaped her vocation as both a chef and a cultural advocate for Malabon heritage. Owing to its coastal geography; centuries-old Hispanic, Chinese, and Tagalog culinary traditions; and abundant access to fresh produce and sea-food that inspired a good number of iconic dishes, the city has earned the moniker "the food capital of the Philippines." Isi once shared that the local government used to host cuisine tours show-casing the best of what Malabon has to offer, but the pandemic brought the initiative to a permanent halt. She eventually took it upon herself to continue these tours; ensuring that people remain aware of just how culturally rich Malabon truly is. And every time she leads one, she delivers.

Yesterday after-noon, even though it was merely a casual exploration among us pals, she brought us around to enjoy balensya; butsi; pansit Malabon; piyanono; kamatsile; and a whole array of local specialties from the market-places to the hole-in-the-wall mum-and-pops gracing the vicinity. Spending a few hours with Isi made it clear that her tours are more than just food trips; they are lovingly curated immersions into the history, flavours, and soul of Malabon itself. Any-one curious to experience the city, for what it is worth, would do well to see it through her eyes and palate.

So if you are looking for great eats to find in Malabon, Isi Laureano is your guide.

I will be uploading my first proper recipe film (films, rather) of the year this coming week.
Please enjoy.