10/02/2017
14th Travelogue, Mali in December 2016
Taxi driver Solo: '' Les Jihadistes fatigue ont le Mali '
Experiment: Amsterdam - Tunis - BKO. And damn it works. Little old decrepit airplane, fiddling and delays at the airport of Tunis with luggage (there is apparently a lot stolen here). Therefore I arrived one hour later than agreed upon with Solo, the driver who would pick me up. He always comes too early for two hours. An illiterate is very insecure when it comes to these kinds of appointments, and left the a good time on the assumption that he had missed me. Drove all the way to my hotel to see if I might have already arrived there.
My mobile number, which was charged with 5000 CFA by Moussamousse, did not work. Later it became clear to me that all mobile numbers must be officially registered and so I had to join myself at the office of Orange.
No sooner said than done. As it turned out, the number was issued to Ablo and without presenting his death certificate, I can not keep track. I'll just assume that this is really the last administrative connection with him, decided to turn a page and seven years after his death to purchase a new number.
Left my base in Bamako: the Baobab hotel after one night to spend a few days with Moussamousse. He has A JOB! His employer provides an apartment. Electricity and water are for his own account. His apartment is situated In the business district of Bamako, ACI, where all the big boys are. Internet providers like Orange, Banks, Minusma, expensive hotels (Radisson attacked by terrorists), but also smaller businesses known to me as travel agent and friend Bengaly and Moussa Maiga with his billboards factory. A pleasant area to discover.
The apartment of Moussa is very cool. Three rooms; One for him (he sleeps on a hastily purchased piece of foam), 1 ''real room'' for me, with shower and toilet and a kind of intermediate room.
The toilet works properly. The shower is still wrapped in plastic, presumably because the contractor has forgotten to build a drain. Splashing bit complicated, though.
Moussa leaves early in the morning to his office located 5 minutes away.
He is a project manager at an Indian / Malian company in pesticides.
From Washington my girlfriend Amy arranged that a brother and a cousin of hers will stay at my place the coming weekend. A religious ceremony to mark the birth of Mohammed (Maouloud) takes place in Segou and Amy invited me out for it. It will be a discovery for me!
Her adopted brother Thierno Thiam stayed with me three years ago, and at that time I discovered him as a super intelligent, charismatic personality. I contacted him and we agreed that I will join him to Segou.
That morning Solo (the driver of the taxi car) woke me up at 04.30 o'clock. Much too early, we travelled to the mosque of the Thiam family in the old center of Bamako. It's still dark and in an obscure corridor next to the house early believers shuffled inside. Imam Thiam, he is president of the Haut Conseil Islamique du Mali, is still not around while we now came at the appointed hour of 6 o’clock.
Finally we hear flapping his boubou and he runs to our taxi where he is greeted by Solo with great reverence. I am directed to put my luggage in a street shop and walk with him into the mosque. After long corridors and pray areas he puts me in his study. Surrounded by many books and two sofas he starts praying 1 meter away from me, restrained with his face to me. Do not know where to look. Suddenly there is a knock on the door of his friend who will act as driver. Outside, another friend is waiting , both from Libya, but with the fall of Khaddafi, they moved to another country. The driver friend to Bamako (BKO), the other one to Brazil.
A wonderful company! Amalgam of languages: Arabic, French and English. Half an hour outside BKO there is a stop for a cup of Turkish coffee that they brought with them. Thierno asks me the ears of my head. And just like three years ago, he asks, to my surprise what kind of work I do and if I'm a believer. That happens rarely in Africa.
The next morning I go to the house of Amy’s family. A lot of activities; food is cleaned, cooked, oil globules rolled. A large group of men is ready for the Quran Reading. In a square with the patriarch of the family at the center, the reading starts at the appointed time, but you can quietly come later.
I am tempted to wear a scarf over my hair (which I have with me!) and get specifically all necessary freedom to take pictures.
After a few hours I do not really know whether I should stay until the end (no idea how long it will take). After two hours, I'm going for a walk and encounters a taxi which takes me home.
After 15 minutes I get called. Monica, where are you? Kindly Thierno makes it clear to me that if I want to come back it would be the best for the end of the lecture. That's at 14.00 hours. Okay. With Moussa who joined me this time, I am provided with explanatory texts of the ceremony. I constantly get through an acolyte of Thierno instructions on what to do next. Take picture! Wait untill the benedictions are sung. It is like as if he is worried that I will escape once again. It amuses me and I behave. With scarf on the head.
To our mutual pleasure I walk into Rama, the young sister of Amy from Dakar. There are a lot of family members present from all over the world! I estimate that there are about 250 men. And they all get food and drinks in a very efficient and super well organized military drill. The woman who knows how to produce this…Chapeau!
At a certain moment I get pressed a phone in my hands. Amy from USA. Just want to hear how it decays me.
On Monday, I walked from home to the market in the centre of Segou. 5,400 steps only. Had a Coffee with Hotel owner Albert. This German’s future plans are severely hampered by political developments in Mali. He empties his experiences of the last years. A large hotel project built in Markela that would be used by a South African company has been cancelled. Leaving him behind with maintenance and there is no real prospect of a solution for his building. Who can buy a project like this?
Albert teaches: when he arrived in Mali, some 20 years ago, Mali had 7 million inhabitants, there are now 17! According to his information, 85% of the population is illiterate. Islamization is manifest. More and more veiled women in the streets. Anarchy on many fronts. The government has no superiority and correcting each other is no longer an issue.
Already in Holland I decided to make a trip to Burkina Faso. Moussa B., Alpha and me. Good Neighbor BA lend us his Pagejo (4 wheel drive) with driver! We actually leave on time and the mood is fine. At 13.00 we are already at the border. But then. We are missing an important permission from the neighbor that we are allowed to use his car. We must return to Mali, to a village where there is access to internet. It is Friday afternoon, everybody is off duty. Ba is looking for a cop who knows the protocol for such permission. For some reason, even the mayor of Segou is involved, stamp, stamp, no clue, anyway it takes approx. 3 hours. Optimistic mood again. We return to the border, and yes, everything is fine. Well, for a minute of 30. Gasoline Air, extreme. We stop. There appears to be a conduit something jumped, to be popped and snapped. Mamadou, the driver dirties without thinking his new shirt by sliding under the car in the gasoline pool. Mat? Good idea.
Warning triangle perhaps expand? Also good idea. Put treebranches as alarm signal on the road. Keep good mood. It is getting dark. A passerby lends us for a while his spotlight, then the driver/mechanic has to improvize again with the light from his mobile. He sees the problem. A bypass operation is the solution. A neighboring resident comes to rescue, they manage together in one way or another to make the car moving again. 25 km only. The tank was filled equally with some bottles, but apparently not enough. We stand still and the bypass is released..
Long story short, six hours later than planned we arrive in Bobo Dioulasso we go to by a motorcycle-riding friend (Boubacar) Moussa for a hotel arranged by him for me. I'm exhausted and hungry.
The hotel kitchen was already closed. Boubacar accompanies me to a large market near the hotel where I ate the most delicious grilled chicken in years.
The next day was spent pretty much in downtime. Evenings at the hotel a kind of Catholic New Year celebration with lots of singing. Burkina has a high number of Catholics, everyone is dressed on his Sunday best. Men in ill-fitting suits and tie, ladies with vulgar dresses, plastic hair, heels and well flavored. It is a kind of participatory dinner show on Catholic basis. We had the plan to go to a celibration where the girlfriend of Moussa as singing star is involved. At 20:00 hours I would be picked up. Just kidding. Hassle. The girlfriend and her brother, who is also involved in the choir, arrived later than agreed.The space of the Mass is remote and not easy to find. We need siblings as motorbike guide. We argue some. Does it still make sense to go? The Mass would still begin at 21:00 hours. Nevertheless we take the road and we end up in a strange situation. The girlfriend, Pascaline, is not quite to sing tonight because she has not rehearsed. A little late to inform us about this. The soundcheck is still busy with his usual loud annoying play. Where should we sit? Moussa is angry with Pascaline. They end up with a church corridor between them and communicate via text messages on the phone. Then the ceremony starts. A lot of shouting by two men. Very Pentecostal-violently all. Hallow. Then everyone should kneel down. Then again raise arms to heaven. It is too much for us (Moussa, Alpha and me) and we go away.
Back to my hotel I just manage to score a banana as supper.
This trip has given me a lot of insights into the ups and downs of Moussa and Alpha, and that is what I liked to experience. Travelling learns you to really get to know someone better, especially in adversity. The return journey was indeed excellent. We even had a great lunch somewhere in the bush.
At home I have a logee, family Adama, friend of Moussa, who is here to attend a wedding. I find this Ousmane the next morning in my kitchen. He is a lawyer and speaks French with a European accent.
Yesterday on the way my bank card magnetic swallowed an ATM. At my bank, I find out that I offered him the wrong machine. New requested with a helpful assistant director. In order to withdraw money, I take between sixty people waiting for me. Next to me somebody plays scrabble on a phone against a computer. The smartphone has a whole wealth of possibilities where the African often uses. Everyone around me has been one.
Before I leave 4 guys wants to see me.
1. The priest of the Cathedral of Segou. He is clearly the networks commissioned by the bishop. I take his contactdetails and promise to stay in touch.
2. From Jigo student Binandje (first batch Jigo students, now nurse payed by the government) meets with Abdou on a visit to strengthen ties with Jigo. We look together pictures of my first years (25 years ago!) in Mali.
3. Thierno Thiam. This particular man has a getaway for me in mind. Upon arrival in Bamako, he is waiting for me. Food is bought, bread, water, fruit for lunch with him on the farm that is slightly outside of Bamako. 5 hectares, some 25 years ago bought for twice nothing, now multiple value. We're going to eat, I get a campaign off the trunk to decorate the table. Then a siesta is on the menu. We both go sprawled on the benches. After prayers and dressed for an extended walk around the grounds he shows me Fish, orange trees, sheep, chickens, two ostriches, it's all there. After the walk chairs are put on a terrace and African tea is served. We discuss. He begins by saying that he is rarely given the opportunity by his social position to talk to women. It is a man with many responsibilities Chairman of the Aids Fund, Chairman of rights for humans, president of the Haut Conseil Islamique du Mali. I do not know exactly why but recently he was given 40 minutes to speak with Angela Merkel on the occasion. In his office, I saw a picture of him with the King of Morocco.
With me he starts talking about very personal matters. Opening: difficult for a man to understand a woman.
We get talking about the importance of sexuality, female circumcision, polygamy, wife battering, anonymous orphans European elderly.
It is getting dark and the session is broken. I care a moment of panic because I can not find my phone, but then retreat begins with a dusty, loeidruk Bamako. On request, he sets off with at hotel Colibris. With a '' je suis toujours a ta disposition '' we say goodbye. He wanted to show me another side of Bamako. It was a wonderful experience.
4. The next morning I got the last appointment. This time with a rich merchant. The father of Adama, the aforementioned friend Moussamousse. I actually get a Nespresso served with a bottle of water. We scan each other. What does he want from me? He begins to ask the rest Ablo's mind. After some general phrases he continues. What am I doing in Mali in the field of development cooperation. He is chairman of the Mopti region in the field of agriculture and explores possibilities for cooperation. There is much in Mopti trade; cows, pigs and fish. Would not that be something for a twin sister related to villages in the Netherlands. Do I think about it? Then there is a woman in Djenne that captures divested children. Is there still something to invent?
So far my experiences, adventures and meetings this time.
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