Julesfloxy Beauty Academy

My lotion separated and the oil is floating 😢 What can I use to rectify it?

This is one of the most common questions beginner formulators ask…

And most times, the problem didn’t start after production.
It started during formulation.

Because separation is usually a sign that your emulsion was unstable from the beginning.

It could be:

Wrong emulsifier usage

Insufficient emulsifier percentage

Oil phase too high for the emulsifier system

Incorrect heating process

Adding phases at the wrong temperature

Poor homogenization/mixing

pH instability

Electrolyte incompatibility

Wrong ingredient combinations

And this is why formulation is deeper than just mixing ingredients from TikTok recipes.

Now, can it be fixed?

Sometimes yes. Sometimes no.

Depending on why it separated, a formulator may try:

Reheating and re-emulsifying

Adjusting viscosity

Adding a co-emulsifier

Reformulating the emulsion system entirely

But there’s no one magical ingredient that automatically “repairs” every separated lotion.

That’s why understanding emulsion science matters more than memorizing recipes.

This is one of the things I teach inside my formulation courses because stable products are not created by luck.

My Courses:
• Introduction to Cosmetic & Skincare Science
• Advanced Formulation Course
• High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Formulation Masterclass
• Professional Haircare Formulation Science
• Color Cosmetics Course
• Soap Making Course

When customers start complaining after a few days

This is one of the most painful moments for small skincare brands.

A customer buys your cream…
They’re happy at first…
Then after a few days, they come back with complaints:

“It’s separating in my container”
“It feels different from before”
“It’s not giving me the same result”

And suddenly, your confidence drops.

Alright, I'll be honest with you:
It’s not always your customer. It’s your formulation stability.

If your product cannot survive:
storage temperature changes
time
ingredient interactions
contamination risks

Then complaints will keep coming, no matter how good it feels on day one.

This is why formulation is not just about making products…
It’s about making products that stay consistent outside your lab.

That’s exactly what I teach, how to build stable, professional-grade formulations.

Our Courses are:
Introduction to Cosmetic & Skincare Science - ₦30k
Advanced Formulation Course - ₦120k
High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Masterclass - ₦150k
Professional Haircare Formulation Science - ₦50k
Color Cosmetics Course - ₦140k
Soap Making Course - ₦50k

A formulator once sent me a formula to review.

And the first thing I noticed wasn’t the ingredients.

It was the fear behind the formula.

You could tell the person didn’t trust the product to work unless everything was added.

Niacinamide? Added.
Alpha arbutin? Added.
Kojic acid? Added.
AHA? Added.
BHA? Added.
Licorice extract? Added.
Glutathione? Added 😭

At some point, formulation stops being formulation and starts becoming panic.

And I think many beginners don’t even realize they’re doing it.

Because deep down, they’re scared of making a “simple” product.

They worry:
“What if people think it’s not strong enough?”
“What if it doesn’t sound impressive?”
“What if another brand has more ingredients?”

So instead of designing a system…

They keep adding ingredients for emotional comfort.

But here’s what experience teaches you:

Good formulators don’t formulate to impress.

They formulate to solve.

And those are two completely different mindsets.

Some of the most effective products I’ve seen had surprisingly simple structures.

Not because the formulator lacked knowledge.

But because they understood restraint.

They understood compatibility.
Performance.
Balance.
Purpose.

That’s the difference between adding ingredients…
and building a formula intentionally.

This is one of the major mindset shifts I teach in my programs:

– Introduction to Cosmetic & Skincare Science — ₦30k
– Advanced Formulation Course — ₦120k
– High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Formulation Masterclass — ₦150k
– Professional Haircare Formulation Science — ₦50k
– Color Cosmetics Course — ₦140k
– Soap Making Course — ₦50k

Because advanced formulation is not about how much you can add.

It’s about knowing what deserves to stay.

What ingredient did you once think every formula needed… until experience changed your mind?

When I see a face moisturizer containing Kojic acid, Niacinamide, AHA, BHA, Hyaluronic Acid…

…and it’s being sold for $4 /₦5000, I already know something is wrong.

Not because affordable skincare is impossible.

But because formulation has realities.

People forget that a formula is not just a list of trendy ingredients.

It’s:
– ingredient quality
– effective concentration
– stability
– compatibility
– preservation
– packaging
– production cost

All working together.
Now think about it.

A product claims to contain:
– Kojic acid
– Niacinamide
– AHA
– BHA
– Hyaluronic acid
All inside one moisturizer.
For $4 / ₦5000.

And somehow people expect:
– stability
– elegant texture
– effective percentages
– proper preservation
– long shelf life
– and visible results

Let’s be realistic.

Some of these ingredients are:
– expensive
– difficult to stabilize
– pH sensitive
– or require careful formulation systems to even coexist properly

This is why experienced formulators don’t get impressed by long ingredient lists.

We ask different questions:
– At what percentage?
– In what system?
– At what pH?
– Is the formula even compatible?
– Will those actives remain stable over time?

Because throwing actives together is easy.

Designing a formula that actually performs well is the hard part.

And this is one of the biggest problems in skincare marketing right now:

People are selling ingredient excitement instead of formulation intelligence.

A moisturizer does not become “high-performance” because you stuffed it with trending actives.

Sometimes, the more overloaded a formula is…
the less intelligently it was designed.

This is why I always teach formulators to think beyond labels.

A shorter ingredient list with:
– good structure
– correct compatibility
– proper stability
– and intentional design
…will often outperform a chaotic “everything inside” formula.

This level of formulation thinking is exactly what I teach in my programs:

– Introduction to Cosmetic & Skincare Science —₦30k
– Advanced Formulation Course — ₦120k
– High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Formulation Masterclass — ₦150k
– Professional Haircare Formulation Science —₦50k
– Color Cosmetics Course — ₦140k
– Soap Making Course — ₦50k

Because good formulation is not about cramming ingredients together.

It’s about designing systems that make sense.

What’s the most unrealistic ingredient combination you’ve seen in a skincare product lately?

Here are over 100 cosmetic ingredients I’ve carefully broken down, including actives, powders, oils, butters, extracts, botanicals, surfactants, hydrosols, emollients, occlusives, emulsifiers, and more.

My eBook, “The Ingredients Bible,” is a must-have for every cosmetic formulator, whether you’re just starting or already experienced.

This is not just a list of ingredients.

Inside, you’ll find:
— INCI names
— Ingredient types
— Usage rates
— Key benefits
— Cautions
— Where and how to use them
— ingredients synergy/ compatibility

It’s not just another book you read and forget.

It’s a reference guide, your go-to every time you formulate.

You need to understand that,
Knowledge alone does not make you a finished formulator.

Formulation is a craft, built through hands-on practice, not just reading.

But ingredient literacy?

That is the foundation that makes every hour you spend formulating more productive, more intentional, and more effective.

Here’s what ingredient literacy helps you do that others struggle with:

✔ When a formula fails, you don’t start over, you diagnose the problem.
✔ When a customer asks why your product works, you explain confidently based on what’s inside.
✔ When a trending ingredient shows up, you evaluate it based on chemistry, not hype.
✔ When you need to substitute an ingredient, you choose the best alternative based on function not guesswork.

This is the difference between mixing… and truly formulating.

The ebook goes for #5000

Use the link in my bio to place your order or send me a DM via WhatsApp 07069059993

“Tested” Doesn’t Mean It Works

I once reviewed a product that had everything on paper:

“Dermatologically tested”
“Clinically inspired”
Packed with trending actives

It looked convincing.

Structured.
Well presented.

But when evaluated properly?

The performance didn’t match the promise.

And that’s when it became very clear:

A claim is not a guarantee of performance.
“Dermatologically tested” sounds powerful.
But most times, it simply means:

– the product was tested under supervision
– the focus was safety and tolerance
– not necessarily performance

And here’s the part many people miss:
Safety ≠ Efficacy

A product can be:
– safe
– stable
– well-tolerated
…and still not give real results.

Because performance depends on:
– ingredient selection
– correct concentration
– compatibility
– delivery system
– formulation structure

Not just labels.

This is why two products can both contain niacinamide but perform completely differently.

One is formulated with intention.
The other is formulated for marketing.

And your skin will always know the difference.

As formulators, our responsibility is not to impress with claims.

It’s to design products that actually work over time.

This is exactly the level of thinking I teach across my programs:
– Introduction to Cosmetic & Skincare Science — $37.50 / ₦30k
– Advanced Formulation Course — $93.75 / ₦120k
– High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Formulation Masterclass — $82 / ₦130k
– Professional Haircare Formulation Science — $50 / ₦50k
– Color Cosmetics Course — ₦140k
– Soap Making Course — ₦50k

Because formulation is not about adding more…
It’s about understanding what actually makes a product perform.

If you’re ready to formulate beyond labels and start building products that deliver real results, send me a DM with “COURSE”.

Have you ever used a product that sounded convincing… but didn’t perform?

Underrated Actives Series
Episode 10

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid: The Inflammation Specialist

Some ingredients are famous for calming the skin.

Colloidal oatmeal.
Centella asiatica.
Panthenol.

But there is a much more targeted anti-inflammatory molecule that many formulators quietly rely on:

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid (HPPA).

This ingredient is inspired by the active soothing compounds naturally found in oats, particularly avenanthramides, which are known for their strong anti-irritation properties.

What scientists did was isolate and create a more stable and consistent synthetic analogue of these soothing compounds.

The result is Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid.

And it’s impressive.

HPPA is particularly effective at reducing skin inflammation, redness, and itching, which makes it valuable for formulations targeting:

• Sensitive skin
• Post-procedure skin
• Compromised skin barriers
• Eczema-prone or reactive skin types

What makes it stand out is that it doesn’t just soothe the surface, it actively modulates inflammatory signaling pathways in the skin.

This means it helps calm the skin at a biochemical level, not just cosmetically.

Another advantage formulators appreciate is its very low usage level.

Even at small percentages, it can significantly improve the soothing performance of a formulation.

That’s why you’ll often see it used in:
• Anti-redness serums
• Sensitive skin creams
• Barrier repair formulations
• Post-actives calming products

Yet despite how effective it is, most consumers have never heard of it.

And that’s the interesting thing about formulation.

Some ingredients become marketing stars.

Others quietly do the technical heavy lifting inside the formula.

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid definitely belongs in the second category.

When designing products for sensitive or reactive skin, the smartest formulas don’t just hydrate or moisturize, they actively control inflammation.

That’s where ingredients like HPPA shine.

How to Identify Poor-Quality Raw Materials Before You Buy

Here are some things I personally check now before buying any ingredient

1️⃣ No Label = No Trust
If a raw material has:
– no name
– no batch number
– no manufacturing date
– no expiry date
That’s already a red flag.

As a formulator, you should be able to trace what you’re using.
If you can’t trace it… you can’t trust it.

2️⃣ Unusual Smell
Most raw materials have a characteristic smell.
If you notice:
– a rancid odor
– a sour note
– or something just “off”
Don’t ignore it.
That could mean degradation or contamination.

3️⃣ Color Has Changed
If an ingredient looks darker, duller, or different from what it should be:
That’s not a small issue.
That’s instability.
And instability in raw materials will transfer into your formulation.

4️⃣ Texture Feels Wrong
– clumping powders
– separation in liquids
– grainy or inconsistent feel
These are signs the material may have been exposed to:
– moisture
– heat
– poor storage conditions

5️⃣ No Documentation
Serious suppliers can provide:
– COA (Certificate of Analysis)
– MSDS (Safety Data Sheet)
If a supplier has absolutely no documentation?
You’re taking a risk.

6️⃣ Storage Conditions
Look around.
Is the material:
– exposed to heat?
– open to air?
– stored in unsealed containers?
Even a good ingredient can become bad if stored poorly.

7️⃣ Price That Feels “Too Good”
Sometimes the price is the clue.
If it’s significantly cheaper than trusted suppliers, ask yourself:
Why?
Because in formulation, cheap mistakes are expensive later.

Here’s what I’ve learned:

Formulation doesn’t start in your beaker.
It starts at the point of sourcing.

You can be a skilled formulator…
But if your raw materials are compromised, your results will always be inconsistent.

This is something I emphasize a lot in my training.

Because high-performance formulation is not just about:
– what you mix
– or how you mix
It’s about what you choose to work with from the beginning.

If you want to learn formulation with this level of clarity and control, send me a DM with “COURSE”.

What’s one red flag you’ve noticed when buying raw materials?

Why Your Lipstick Is Breaking, Sweating, or Bleeding

You finally make your lipstick.
It looks good.
Smooth.
Well-shaped.
Nice color.

Then a few days later…
It starts to:
– break
– sweat
– bleed outside the lip line

And you’re thinking:
“What went wrong?”

Let me be clear:
Your lipstick didn’t “spoil.”
It exposed a structure problem.

Lipsticks are not just wax + oil + pigment.

They are solid systems engineered for stability, pay-off, and control.

Here’s where things usually go wrong:

1️⃣ Wrong Wax–Oil Ratio
This is the foundation.
Too much oil →
– soft stick
– sweating
– poor structure

Too much wax →
– brittle stick
– breakage
– drag during application
Balance is everything.

2️⃣ Poor Wax Selection
Not all waxes behave the same.
Some give:
– hardness
– gloss
– flexibility
If your wax system is not well-designed:
Your lipstick won’t hold up under pressure (literally).

3️⃣ Temperature Instability
Especially in hot climates.
If your formula is not built for heat:
– oils migrate → sweating
– structure weakens → breakage
– product deforms easily
This is why some lipsticks fail in Nigeria but survive in cooler environments.

4️⃣ Weak Pigment Binding
If pigments are not properly bound:
– they migrate
– they bleed into fine lines
– color payoff becomes inconsistent

5️⃣ No Structural Integrity Testing
Many beginners stop at:
“It looks good.”
But lipstick needs to be tested for:
– pressure
– temperature
– time
Because performance changes after production.

Honestly,
A lipstick that only holds its shape on day one… is not a finished product.

A well-formulated lipstick should:
– maintain structure
– resist sweating
– glide smoothly
– stay within the lip line
– perform consistently over time

And that level of performance is not accidental.
It’s designed.

Because you’re no longer just mixing ingredients.
You’re building a solid system with physical stability.

If you’re ready to move from trial-and-error to controlled formulation, send me a DM with “COURSE”

Have you ever made a lipstick that looked perfect… but failed after a few days?

If your formula only looks good immediately after application… you haven’t finished formulating it..

Yes, I said that...

One of the biggest mistakes I see is,

Formulators judge a product too early.

You make a batch.
It looks good.
Feels nice.
Applies well.

And you conclude:
“This is a good formula.”

But formulation doesn’t end at application.
That’s just the beginning.
Because what really matters is what happens after:
– 30 minutes
– 3 hours
– 3 days
– 2 weeks
– 1 month

That’s where the truth shows up.

A formula can look perfect today…
and fail tomorrow.
It can:
– separate over time
– change color
– lose viscosity
– develop instability
– irritate after repeated use
– stop performing as expected

And suddenly, that “good formula” isn’t so good anymore.
Real formulation is not about first impression.
It’s about consistency over time.

It’s about:
– stability
– compatibility
– wear behavior
– repeat performance
– user experience over weeks

This is why experienced formulators don’t rush conclusions.
They observe.
They test.
They wait.
They challenge their own formulas.

Because a product that performs well once…
but fails over time…
was never truly finished.

Formulation is not about creating something that looks good in the moment.
It’s about creating something that holds up over time.

And this is the shift most formulators need to make:

From: “Does it look good now?”
To: “Will it still perform weeks from now?”

In my High-Performance Cosmetic & Cosmeceutical Formulation Training, this is one of the biggest mindset shifts I teach.

Because high-performance products are not judged on day one…
They’re judged over time.

If you’re ready to start formulating products that remain stable, effective, and reliable beyond first application, send us a DM today...

How long do you usually test your formulas before calling them “finished”?