Joey Teoh 芳匠私享馆

Part 3:
Then and Now: A Familiar Pattern

When you look at today US-Isreal-Iran War and WWII side by side, some patterns feel familiar.

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The perfume industry has always been closely tied to materials, movement, and global supply. When one part shifts, everything else follows.

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The reasons may be different.

Back then, it was resource allocation and war priorities. Now, it’s more about petrochemical pressure and supply uncertainty.

But the effect feels familiar — limited materials, rising costs, and adjustments across the board.

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We are still closely monitoring how the current situation develops, because it’s not just about perfume.

These changes will likely be felt across many industries, and eventually by consumers in general.

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Still early to say how things will unfold.

But it’s a pattern we have seen before — just in a different form. 🌼🌼🌼










Remark:
Visual created for illustration purposes

Part 2:
When Supply Changes, Everything Adjusts

What happened to perfume during WWII was more complex than most people think.

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The impact wasn’t limited to just one area — it affected the entire system.

With trade disrupted and materials limited, many perfume houses had to reduce production or pause certain products. What remained was often inconsistent, depending on what resources were still available.

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Interestingly, this shift wasn’t only happening in perfume.

Fashion at that time also became more practical — simpler designs, less excess, more focus on function.

I remember this quite clearly, as it’s something we usually touch on when looking at fragrance evolution from 1900–2000.

Different industries, but a similar pattern.

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At the same time, it’s also important to note that not everything stopped.

In some regions, like the United States, production continued at a certain level, depending on access to materials.

The industry didn’t disappear — it adjusted within its limits.

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How it compares to what we are seeing today is another layer worth looking at.

(continuing in Part 3….)










Remark:
Visual created for illustration purposes

Part 1:
Price Movement & A Quick Look Back

It’s been a while since I last posted here.

Over the past 2 weeks, supplier conversations have been less about orders — and more about price changes.

Prices for perfume raw materials and packaging have been unstable, with some increases already in and still a lot of uncertainty ahead. If the situation continues, it may go higher.

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It reminded me of something I came across before when reading about perfume history.

During World War II, the industry went through a somewhat similar disruption.

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At that time, trade routes were affected, and materials couldn’t move freely — for example, ingredients like jasmine from France became harder to access.

At the same time, alcohol and other key materials were redirected to medical and war use, while packaging materials like glass were also limited.

Production didn’t stop, but it became much more restricted and inconsistent.

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So even in one of the most disrupted periods in history, the perfume industry didn’t disappear — it adapted within its limits.

The details of how it played out are quite interesting, especially across different regions.

(continuing in Part 2….)










Remark:
Visual created for illustration purposes

Quick Recap: Part 4
Final Notes – Diffusers and Finals Thoughts

As we wrapped up our visit, one last topic came up that’s worth mentioning — something a bit more technical but important for those in the fragrance industry.

🌻Reed Diffuser Registration in Indonesia

We had been wondering: Do reed diffusers need to be certified in Indonesia?

After asking around and doing a bit of fact-checking, here’s what we learned:
If reed diffusers are marketed as household products (not cosmetics or food), they fall under “Household Health Supplies” (PKRT) and are regulated by the Ministry of Health (Kementerian Kesehatan / Kemenkes) — not BPOM.

So yes, reed diffusers often do need to be registered with the Ministry of Health, especially if they contain ingredients like alcohol, essential oils, or other compounds that require safety assessment.
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🌻About the Photos… We Tried😂😂😂

We also made it a point to take as many photos as we could — of booths, bottles, packaging — hoping to create a little archive for our Malaysian friends and industry peers.

But we’ll be honest: it wasn’t easy. The crowd was thick, the lighting unpredictable, and let’s just say… we’re a lot better at sniffing than we are at shooting.

Maybe we were just too greedy 😂— trying to absorb too much, document everything, and still stay present in the moment. So if some photos are blurry or off-angle… we forgive ourselves (and we hope you do too 😅)
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🌻Final Thoughts

With these four parts of quick recap. we’ve shared a small window into what’s happening in Indonesia’s fragrance space — the trends, the brands, and the behind-the-scenes perspectives from people on the ground.

You might start seeing some of these brands appear more often, whether through content creators or even landing in Malaysia soon. And when you do, maybe this recap gives you just a bit of context.

No expert analysis here — just honest, open sharing. Read it with curiosity, enjoy the photos, and take whatever insights you find useful.

Thanks for following along.

Quick Recap: Part 3
Voices from the Ground – Conversations with different Young Brand Owners

After taking in the broader market and regulatory trends, we also had some casual but meaningful conversations with young entrepreneurs and brand owners at the event. Hearing their stories gave us a more personal glimpse into how things really work on the ground—what drives them, how they navigate challenges, and what it’s like building a brand in today’s Indonesian market.
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🌻Education & Business Choices
Many of young entrepreneurs studied abroad—in places like Singapore, the U.S., Amsterdam, and the U.K. When we asked why they didn’t choose to stay overseas after graduating, their answers were practical and grounded:

“Indonesia offers more resources if you want to run a business. It’s easier to source what you need, labour costs are lower, and most importantly, the market is big.”


🌻Diversity & Business Climate
We also touched on a sensitive topic to a few brand owners. Does being from a minority ethnic background affect their business?Their answer was calm and reassuring:

“In cities like Jakarta and Surabaya, it’s not really an issue. People are open-minded. Smaller towns may have their own limitations, but the major cities drive most of the business anyway.”


🌻Observations on Content Culture
One thing we noticed during the event: very few influencers or content creators walking around with cameras or phones creating content, which is quite different from exhibitions in other countries. Curious, we asked about it. Their reply was insightful:

“Here, influencers usually don’t create content unless there’s a prior agreement with the brand. They will only start filming or posting if there’s a set collaboration or fee. Without that, most of the time they don’t generally cover brands just for their own feed.”



PS: It was interesting to hear different perspectives and experiences directly from the people building brands in the market. These small, honest conversations gave us a better understanding of the business landscape from their point of view.

Quick Recap: Part 2
Insights from Scent of Indonesia

Indonesia Regulatory Shift:
Halal Certification Mandatory by October 2026

During casual conversations with a few brand owners at the event, we learned about a significant regulation in the works. After fact-checking and further reading, we confirmed that Indonesia’s Government Regulation No. 42/2024 will require all cosmetic and personal care products—including fragrances—to be halal-certified by October 17, 2026.

This move is part of Indonesia’s broader effort to set higher industry standards, particularly in the halal segment. Fragrance houses and OEM manufacturers will now need to ensure full halal compliance from upstream materials to finished products.
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Market Implications

🌻 Fragrance Houses ~
The upcoming regulation will push fragrance houses to meet stricter sourcing and compliance demands. As a result, more fragrance houses are now setting up regional offices and manufacturing facilities in Indonesia, where they can integrate halal processes more seamlessly and access a growing domestic market.

🌻Brand Positioning & Export Readiness ~
Indonesian brands that are BPOM-registered, halal-certified, and supported by large-scale production now enjoy stronger positioning, especially for export to Muslim-majority markets like Malaysia. With volume, compliance, and competitive pricing on their side, they are well-prepared to scale quickly.

🌻Brand Entry into Malaysia～
Malaysian distributors are taking notice. Many are aggressively bringing in Indonesian brands as they see clear profit potential. This increases competition in the local market.

🌻Pressure on Local Malaysian Brands~
Local brand owners, especially indie players with limited resources, now face mounting pressure. Competing on price, volume, and compliance readiness becomes more difficult, especially when larger regional players are entering with a head start.



PS: If we truly want to support Malaysian fragrance brand owners, we need to ask: how can we help effectively? It’s not enough to say one thing and act in another direction.

We can’t fix the market issues overnight, but we must set the foundation right from the beginning—with clear support systems, strategic planning, and long-term vision.

Right now, Malaysia isn’t the more competitive ground, but with the right approach, it doesn’t have to fall behind.

Just my two cents, something worth thinking about as the industry moves forward.

Quick Recap (Part 1)
My Visit to Scent of Indonesia Surabaya

All the participating fragrance brands at the event had properly registered their products with BPOM (Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan is Indonesia’s National Agency for Drug and Food Control — similar to our NPRA in Malaysia) ensuring compliance with local regulations. There were no “bancuh-bancuh” brands present, except for one ultra-niche brand whose BPOM status was unclear. Some brand owners mentioned that this might be the only brand taking the risk of selling without proper registration.

It was impressive to see that many of the brand owners were young and came from diverse backgrounds. They have done a great job with branding and are very clear about the messages they want to communicate to their consumers.

Interestingly, most of the brands are OEM-produced by the same few factories. They were open and proud about this, with some even positioning their OEM source as a mark of guaranteed quality.

Because many products were either made by the same OEM factories or sourced from the same fragrance houses, a lot of them had quit similar scent profile. Still, the variety in branding and marketing made each brand feel distinct. A few brands did stand out with slightly different scents—still dupes, but of more niche, non-mainstream fragrances that aren’t typically crowd-pleasers.

Overall, it was a well-organised and successful event. I will be sharing photos of each booth and their product packaging over a few posts.



PS: Sharing this especially for local friends, brand owners or anyone planning to join FFM soon — hope it gives you some insights!

In the photos, you can observe their booth designs, product packaging, and pricing, might be useful references for your brand planning. I also added comments to some of the pictures. Enjoy viewing !

【Fragrance Primer: Useful or Just a Trend?】

I came across this product at Scent of Indonesia. It claims to help your fragrance bloom more fully and last longer on the skin.

If you look at the ingredient list on the packaging, the idea behind how it works is quite straightforward 👉🏻Moisturised Skin Holds Fragrance Better!

This product uses Glycerin and Propanediol to help boost skin hydration. It also includes Polyquaternium-69, which forms a light film on the skin’s surface. This can help hold fragrance molecules in place and slow down their evaporation rate.

In our hot and humid climate, frgrances naturally fade faster because heat speeds up evaporation. A product like this can help to some extent — it keeps the scent more even and slows down how quickly it wears off. So, your fragrance may stay noticeable on the skin a little longer, but it won’t dramatically increase projection or turn a soft scent into something intense.

The basic idea isn’t new, many people already apply an unscented lotion or a bit of Vaseline on pulse points before spraying perfume. This works on the same principle — creating a moisturised, slightly occlusive layer that holds scent better. This primer simply does it in a neater, lighter way.

Overall, it is a science-based concept and a handy tool for fragrance lovers who want an extra step in their routine. Just remember : it’s not magic. The quality of your perfume, where you spray it, and how much you use still matter most!

【It’s Never Just Copy and Paste】

Every time we receive training slide content from France, it is clear that we can’t apply it directly to the local market. The content usually needs to be reviewed and adapted to ensure it is relevant and relatable to our participants here.

One of the main challenges is that the fragrance knowledge among local participants is still developing. Many are not yet fully familiar with how the fragrance world works on a professional or global level. Because of this, we often need to insert additional notes, explanations, and cultural examples to bridge that understanding gap — especially when introducing more technical or conceptual topics.

It is also important to recognise that local participants sometimes lean into trends or ideas that feel good on the surface, but may not be rooted in a real understanding of olfactive structure, market positioning, or fragrance storytelling.

Despite the challenges, we take it one step at a time. Our goal is to added value to the local market — to share a more international perspective in a way that is accessible and meaningful. If we can help participants gain clearer insight and apply that to their brand or business, then we are moving in the right direction.

This was originally a Chinese old post I shared earlier, later reposted on platforms like Red Book and in perfumery groups. It sparked a lot of discussion around issues in the Asian market.

Here’s the English version — read with an open mind and share your thoughts! 😂

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Whenever I join a perfumery training, I always ask instructors about the “Certified Perfumer” trend in Asia — where a few days of classes lead to a certificate and a new title as “Perfumer”

Their reactions? Mostly mixed… and often surprised 😂

🇫🇷 French instructors and perfumers:

• Shocked that short courses can lead to someone calling themselves a perfumer

• Emphasize that true training takes years, not days.

• Say hands-on experience in a fragrance house is essential.

• Even with a degree, official recognition requires meeting strict standards — and titles can be revoked.

• Warn against calling yourself a perfumer too early; it’s seen as unprofessional.

• Some express frustration with how loosely the title is used in Asia.

In short: They take the title “perfumer” very seriously — and believe it must be earned over time.
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🇺🇸 Independent Perfumery Instructors from USA

• Believe anyone can become a perfumer, but only through years of study and daily practice.

• Focus on making perfumery more accessible for hobbyists and enthusiasts.

• Emphasize learning over gatekeeping — encouraging.

• Most of them have 10+ years of industry experience or F&F backgrounds — not a casual beginners.
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🇬🇧 UK F&F Industry Perfumers

• View perfumery as a state of mind — anyone can experiment, even a child.

• Question the legitimacy of the term “Certified Perfumer” — it doesn’t exist formally.

Market observation: Most certificates simply state “Successfully Completed”, not a professional title.
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China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Korea

• Common belief: Completing a course = You’re a perfumer!

• Instructors often reinforce this idea intentionally.

• Despite certificates only stating course completion, many participants proudly adopt the title right away.
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PS:
Given how many courses and training programs I have attended over the years… maybe I should start calling myself a “Super Ultimate Mega Talented Perfumer”?
(Just kidding, of course! 😆)

【When Life Runs Faster Than Words…】

It is already mid-2025, and I realize I haven’t written anything for so long. Life is been moving fast — family changes, kids growing up, work getting heavier, and unexpected admin tasks piling up one after another. Somewhere in between, I lost the space to just sit with my thoughts.

I have had so many things I wanted to say… but maybe because I care too much about saying them “right,” they end up staying stuck in my head. When time is limited, “perfection” becomes the biggest obstacle.

But recently, I have been feeling that urge again — to reconnect with my own voice, even if it means touching on topics that are a little more sensitive, a little more complex. I haven’t decided whether to speak or stay quiet, but the thought is there.…🤪🤪🤪

【生活跑得比文字还快…】

看回自己的“芳匠私享馆”， 天啊… 今年真是完全没有写到任何文章！可见今年真的忙到透不过气，年头忙着女儿转校事宜，忙着准备儿子澳洲升学事宜，公司又要处理讨人厌的E-invoicing，下个月又要弄另一家公司的E-invoicing，那快速的节奏，老化的年龄确实有点吃不消… 😂

其实2025 年还是有许多观点想要分享的，奈何真的挤不出时间，也许可能完美主义者吧，所以所有的思路都卡着，没办法“熬”出来…. 呵呵呵， 尽量，我尽量吧….

为什么今天想跳出来浮出水面，可能最近有点“欠揍”，想探讨一些香氛敏感课题……（还再考虑要不要把它吞回肚子消化掉不写，我会认真考虑….我会真的认真考虑🤪🤪🤪）




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