Liberica Refinement Project

Finally!

After more than a decade, we are back in Beijing. This time, we were invited by what is considered one of the oldest coffee associations in China “China Coffee Association Beijing (CCAB)” to give a talk on the Coffee Consulate system and cross-species perspectives in coffee.

At the same time, representing Coffee Consulate (Germany) and Earthlings Coffee, we signed two educational collaboration agreements with the association, and were subsequently offered a formal three-year appointment.

The coffee scene in Beijing is very vibrant. It is a rare opportunity to introduce Malaysian Liberica to the local coffee community. After tasting it during our “Sarawak Liberica Cupping Session”, the first thing people asked was when they could visit Malaysia.

With senior members from coffee associations across China present, I expect to focus today on a topic I have long wanted to explore: the standardisation of taste versus the nihilism of taste.

Right at the beginning, I heard representatives from Ethiopia and Uganda in China each declare their countries as the birthplace of coffee and the origin of Robusta, respectively. It feels like the discussions in this forum will only become more interesting.

In addition, this event also includes cupping sessions with CEOs from Taiwan and the ASEAN Coffee Federation. The scale of the national cupping competition here is also very impressive. I heard that as many as 200 people have made it to the finals alone, and I can hardly imagine how many participated in the nationwide preliminaries.

We were delighted to welcome Benjamin Brewer, Senior Director of Global Innovation & Quality at Blue Bottle Coffee, Audrey Wardrop, Sustainability Manager, Mr. Kohei from Nestlé, and their photographer Jamie to Kuching, Sarawak, for a visit to our Liberica Refinement Project. We also had the opportunity to explore potential areas of collaboration.

Over the past few days, we had the privilege of bringing them through both the market and deep into the field. Together, we visited Black Bean Coffee, Kura-Kura, the Tarat Research Plot, the Agricultural Research Center, Kpg Sebobok, as well as several independent indigenous smallholder coffee farms.

During the visit, we shared insights into the current state of the Sarawak Liberica coffee industry, conducted a Liberica cupping session to explore different processing methods, and engaged in meaningful discussions on how we can collectively move the industry forward.

A sincere thank you to all of them for making the trip, and to all our partners and friends who supported and made this visit possible.

Over the past week, we have been living somewhere between a twin-engine Borneo Airline aircraft and coffee trees. Traveling deep into the interior; Long Banga, Long Balong, and the Bario Highlands. We spent our time sharing post-harvest knowledge with local communities, conducting cupping sessions together, and discussing how different processing methods influence flavour.

Throughout the journey, I carried with me a small bag containing four coffee varieties: Excelsa KCR-29 (small-fruited), Excelsa KCRB-94 (large-fruited), CXR, and S.274. To some, this may simply be a bag of seeds. But to me, they represent a set of questions about the future of coffee.

It took us nearly a year waiting for the right season and mobilising multiple networks, to finally assemble these seeds. All four are high-yielding, high-quality, and most importantly, among the few coffee types that have strong potential to thrive in Sarawak’s environment.

The first two are distinct Excelsa types, while CXR is a hybrid between Coffea congensis and Coffea canephora. S.274, on the other hand, is a selected Robusta line known for its stable high yield and strong adaptation to hot, humid, high-rainfall tropical conditions such as those found in Sarawak.

Before the journey began, we planted the first trial batch at the Semenggoh Agriculture Research Center in Kuching (0 meters above sea level). We then flew to Long Banga (approximately 500 meters), and finally to the Bario Highlands (around 1,000 meters) to continue planting.

In other words, we established three experimental plots across three different elevations in Sarawak.

At first glance, this arrangement may seem unnecessarily complicated. But in reality, it serves two clear purposes: first, to understand which coffee species are best suited for Sarawak under future climate conditions; and second, to provide local coffee growers with more options, thereby increasing diversity within the coffee system.

Some local farmers have asked me, “Sarawak already has its own unique Liberica, why go through all this trouble?”

The answer is simple. If we are serious about the future of coffee in Sarawak, we must think long-term.

Most people drink coffee every day, yet very few realise how structurally fragile the global coffee industry actually is. Nearly all coffee worldwide comes from just two species: Arabica and Robusta (Canephora).

That’s it. A multi-billion-dollar industry built upon essentially two branches of a single family tree. It is, in many ways, the agricultural equivalent of putting all your eggs in one basket.

Climate change is now making this vulnerability increasingly apparent. Studies, including those referenced by the International Coffee Organization (ICO), suggest that under future climate scenarios, the suitable growing area for Arabica could decline by nearly half. If that happens, the global coffee industry will be forced to confront a difficult question: what else can we grow?

As I have mentioned in previous writings, coffee history once had a third major player; Liberica. In the late 19th century, when Arabica in Asia was devastated by coffee leaf rust, Liberica was introduced as a replacement. It can grow at low elevations, tolerate higher temperatures, and perform relatively well in humid conditions. From an agronomic perspective, it is a remarkably resilient species.

Yet over time, Liberica was gradually replaced by Robusta. The reason was straightforward; productivity and processing challenges. Traditional Liberica produces large fruits with thick pulp, making processing and drying more difficult. When not handled properly, it often develops what many describe as a “woody” flavor.

As a result, Liberica was largely abandoned by the global coffee industry, surviving mainly in places like Malaysia, while the world settled into an Arabica–Robusta system that has persisted for over a century.

Recent research, however, has brought an important update to our understanding. For a long time, Excelsa was considered merely a variety of Liberica, but modern taxonomic studies now clearly distinguish them as separate species. I

n simple terms, Liberica is Coffea liberica, while Excelsa is Coffea dewevrei. They originate from different African forest regions and differ in morphology, agronomy, and even flavor.

This distinction matters, because different species imply different adaptive capacities to climate.

Furthermore, both Coffea liberica and Coffea dewevrei contain diverse internal variants. Sarawak’s so-called “Liberica,” for example, represents a unique local lineage with notable differences in both morphology and cup profile. We will formally update these botanical insights in our upcoming genomic research publication.

In collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, our recent study titled “Climate requirements for cultivated Liberica coffee and consequences for its use and development as a crop species” represents the first global-scale analysis of Liberica’s climate niche.

The findings are compelling. Liberica is indeed capable of thriving under higher temperatures, higher humidity, and lower seasonality. In a warming world, this positions it as a potentially important crop.

However, the study also highlights a critical point: regions like Sarawak are already near the upper edge of Liberica’s climatic tolerance. From field observations across both East and West Malaysia, it is evident that while Liberica can survive and produce fruit in Sarawak, many trees are under physiological stress. Issues such as anthracnose are also more severe here.

This is not surprising. Sarawak’s climate is defined by heavy rainfall, minimal dry season, and consistently high temperatures. These conditions are workable, but they are far from optimal. And if climate change continues, the margin for error will only narrow.

This is precisely why we have begun trialing Excelsa and other coffee types.

From an agronomic perspective, Excelsa offers several advantages.

First, yield: field observations indicate that a single tree can produce 4–8 kg of green beans, with older trees sometimes exceeding 10 kg, placing it on par with many Robusta systems.

Second, processing: unlike traditional Liberica, Excelsa has smaller fruits with thinner pulp, making pulping and drying significantly easier; an important advantage in humid rainforest conditions.

Third, flavour; Excelsa often presents more approachable profiles, with notes such as cocoa, dried fruits, and maple syrup. It is generally less intense, less “wild,” and therefore easier to integrate into existing global coffee markets.

Yet to me, the most important consideration is not flavour, but smallholder economics.

In Sarawak, most coffee farmers are not large estate operators. They are smallholders, often cultivating between 300 to 900 trees. For these farmers, a crop that yields twice as much can effectively double their income, significantly improving the sustainability of coffee as a livelihood.

Additionally, both Liberica and Excelsa exhibit an interesting phenological trait: in regions with evenly distributed rainfall, they can flower and fruit throughout the year. For large plantations, this is a disadvantage due to the lack of synchronised harvest. But for smallholders, it is an advantage.

They can harvest gradually, process in manageable batches, and avoid the need for large, short-term labor inputs.

At present, our work in Sarawak is still simple in structure. We have established three experimental plots: Kuching (0 m), Long Banga (500 m), and Bario (1,000 m). The same set of coffee types—Liberica, Excelsa, CXR, and S.274—are planted across these elevations. In the coming years, we will begin to see patterns emerge, allowing us to better understand which coffee species are best suited to which altitudes in Sarawak.

Many people assume that scientific research happens in laboratories. But in reality, much of it begins in a much simpler way: finding a piece of land, planting a few trees, and observing them year after year.

Perhaps ten years from now, when global coffee systems begin to shift under climate pressure, people may look back and realise that somewhere in the rainforests of Borneo, a small group had already begun experimenting.

The future of Sarawak coffee may well be hidden among a few trees in Kuching, Long Banga, and Bario.

Of course, none of this work is done alone. It is supported by dedicated members of the Sarawak Department of Agriculture at ARC, and by the farmers of Long Banga and Bario, those who trust us and walk this journey together, working under sun, rain, and sweat.

I would also like to extend special thanks to our supporting farmer partners from India (who prefer to remain unnamed), as well as Diana Jitam, Alasdair Clayre, Dr. Steffen Schwarz, and Sam Mei Jean for their continued support.

Our small coffee gathering on the Bario Highlands has been getting more lively each year.

At over 1,000 meters above sea level, we held our cupping session at Rumah Bario Asal, the earliest longhouse in the area. Perhaps it’s the cool mountain air—but even the coffee seems to taste better up here.

We were especially excited to receive what may be one of the first batches of Liberica coffee grown above 1,000 masl in Malaysia. We hope this harvest can become the beginning of a long-term supply from the highlands.

Another important mission during this visit was to respond to a challenge that many local farmers have faced for years — unsuitable coffee varieties introduced into the region.

This time, we officially introduced four high-quality coffee varieties suitable for cultivation between 500 and 1,000 meters above sea level:

1. Excelsa KCR-29
2. Excelsa KCRB-94
3. CXR
4. S.274

These varieties will now be propagated by local farmers, forming part of a three-site experimental cultivation network across different elevations:

• Lowlands around Kuching
• Long Banga (≈500 masl)
• Bario Highlands (≈1000 masl)

Together, these sites will help us better understand how these varieties perform across Sarawak’s diverse landscapes.

Many thanks to Sam Mei and Alasdair Clayre for the support and to everyone for the warm hospitality.

We were very happy that our team, together with the TV Sarawak documentary production crew assigned to produce a historical documentary on Sarawak coffee, returned to Long Banga once again.

During this visit, we conducted a cupping session together with the community, tasting Liberica coffees from different regions of Sarawak processed with various fermentation methods. We also shared some advanced coffee processing techniques.

At the same time, we brought with us the seeds of four strategically selected coffee varieties suitable for cultivation in Sarawak — Excelsa KCR-29, Excelsa KCRB-94, CXR, and S.274 — in the hope of bringing more competitive advantages to the development of coffee in this region

We would like to sincerely thank the village head of Long Banga and the community for their warm hospitality, and for kindly coming to the airport to receive us. We look forward to seeing all of you again very soon.

Last week at Hikmah Exchange in Kuching, we attended the Premier Townhall marking the 9th anniversary of Sarawak Premier Datuk Abang Johari.

Being in the same room with Sarawak’s ministers, Malaysia’s Deputy Prime Minister Datuk Seri Haji Fadillah, policymakers, and representatives from different industries, and hearing the vision for Sarawak’s future, was a meaningful moment for those of us who have long been rooted in the local economy.

We also thank TVS and Sarawak Media Group for featuring Earthlings on site and for showcasing our Sarawak coffees, allowing Sarawak Liberica, and our years of work in agriculture, education, and international collaboration, to be part of a much wider public conversation.

During the townhall, the Premier highlighted four key development priorities for Sarawak in the coming years:

1. Semiconductor and AI-related chip design
2. Development of the aviation sector
3. Talent development, including free higher education across 64 disciplines (yes — Sarawak’s next
generation will have access to free tertiary education)
4. Renewable energy

Many things cannot be achieved in a single evening, but when the direction is right, it is worth moving forward steadily.

Coffee is not just three species —it is 133 species.

The idea behind our Cross-Species Coffee Cupping was to bring together coffee professionals, breeders, researchers, producers and consumers in one room, and for a moment set aside the familiar Arabica-centric narrative that dominates our industry.

We wanted to taste with open minds, and to explore the potential of other coffee species that rarely get a voice.

Even though there are 133 known coffee species, I myself have only tasted eleven over all these years. Wild coffee is extremely difficult to obtain — even the world’s top researchers can only access very limited amounts that are “enough to drink.”

In previous forums, some of the most memorable coffees were C. eugenioides and C. zanguebariae.

This time, we were able to cup several rare species alongside coffees from our own region:
This session included:

1. India CxR (C. congensis × C. canephora)

2. West Malaysia My Liberica “Baby Cherries” Champion Series (C. liberica, thanks to Liu Bo-Qian)

3. South Africa C. racemosa (thanks to Charles Denison)

4. India C. wightiana (thanks to Nokhalu)

5. India SICC C. dewevrei (thanks to Komal & Akshay)

6. Vietnam Specialty-grade Robusta (thanks to Caden)

7. Sarawak Bario Highlands C. liberica

8. Tarat Research Farm 45-year-old tree C. liberica

9. Long Banga Libericoid

10. Ethiopia Heirloom C. arabica

11. India Old Paradenia Robusta

12. Kpg Git Blue-Cheese Fermented
Libericoid

During the cupping I deliberately gave no tasting comments, to avoid any preconceptions. Everyone was encouraged to imagine freely — let every cup speak for itself.

Still, a few coffees left a particularly strong impression on me:
Racemosa, Wightiana, Baby Cherries Liberica, and Tarat Liberica.

From them I found a wide spectrum of flavours: black raisins, prunes, dried plums, sesame oil, dried persimmon, sunflower seeds, macadamia, passion fruit, pine cones, apple, osmanthus, peanut candy, Mediterranean basil, kaffir lime, pepper mint, red guava, clove, bonito, smoky bacon, licorice, and saffron.

Those who were there can probably guess which flavours came from which coffees — in many cases, they were surprisingly clear.

The only regret this time was that we couldn’t obtain C. stenophylla — its production is simply too low.

Looking forward to the next session, where we hope to add three more coffee species to the table.

Together with the Department of Agriculture Sarawak, we successfully organised a six-day Coffee Farmer Education programme focused on Liberica coffee. The course was led by Dr. Steffen Schwarz, founder of the German Coffee Consulate, together with Dr. Jorgs Reike.

This was a highly professional and forward-looking programme, offering valuable insights into the future of Sarawak coffee and Liberica coffee. We are grateful to participants from around the world who joined us for this meaningful learning journey.
📚📑🧫🌱☕️