14/02/2024
DON'T SURF HERE - AN IMPORTANT DISCUSSION
I wanted to share this video because I feel like it highlights beautifully solutions to both poor surf technique, as well as safety and etiquette.
To me, this is not just a video about "don't surf here" ...
This video highlights why we need to stop coaching people to sit on the shoulder at a point break.
gasp
Yup, I said it ...
And yup, it's true.
I have seen ALL of the above at my local surf spots which are also point breaks. They are also beginner spots which often create the same craziness of the conditions so clearly highlighted here.
To understand why ALL of this craziness is happening (and no, it’s not just lack of awareness and surf etiquette, trust me) let’s break down a little bit about WHY people drop in on the shoulder to begin with.
The shoulder of the wave is less steep, making it seem more friendly. It’s a more gentle angle, so we’re less likely to nose dive. Instructors particularly love, pushing their students onto the gentle slopes of the shoulder so they can glide in with more ease, giving them more time, and stability to stand up.
Basically, the shoulder is less scary.
It requires less commitment.
It is also a less critical part of the wave, and herein lies the problem.
As lovely and safe as the shoulder makes us feel, it’s actually the most dangerous place to sit.
Yup, I said that too.
If you don’t believe me, just watch the video.
The problem with sitting on the shoulder.
One of the main issues I see in the water these days goes beyond understanding etiquette. One of the biggest safety factors out there is that most surfers starting out lack the most basic and essential fundamentals, and “progress” to more than they can actually handle without having the skills and capacity to realize it.
Let’s look at 2 big red flags for me that were highlighted beautifully in the video.
Almost no one is paddling towards the whitewater when confronted with an oncoming surfer going down the line.
First off, the video explains why we need to paddle to the whitewater (we get out of the surfer’s way, let them ride the wave safely and enjoyably, and avoid getting hit by them).
So if that's what needs to be done, why is no one doing it?
Why are nearly all of the surfers trying to paddle around the shoulder, when they should be paddling toward the whitewater?
Unfortunately many beginner and even intermediate surfers lack the basic skills to get their board through the whitewater safely.
This is again highlighted perfectly in the video as people ditch their boards, or simply chose to paddle in the wrong direction despite the fact that it puts them directly into the firing line of a surfer barreling towards them like a freight train.
No matter what your skills or ability, you must be able to control your board through the whitewater of the set waves in order to safely surf that break.
That means that some days, on a normally gentle break, you shouldn’t paddle out if you look at the inside where all of those broken waves are and you’re not sure if you can get through them while still maintaining control of your board.
If you have a longboard, this means you should have a super solid turtle roll as long as at least one other way of dealing with the whitewater so that you can confidently paddle through the whitewater.
Red flag number two are the surfers shamelessly dropping in on the shoulder instead of catching the wave at the peak.
Now, I realize that this can happen for several reasons (and reasons that may be specific to this particular break) however I wanted to clarify something super important.
It is never ok to drop in on anyone on the shoulder.
PERIOD.
So why do I think people do it?
Like I said there are a few factors here, but I wanted to highlight the biggest and main factor that we as individual surfers can take responsibility for and control.
That is the fundamental skill of knowing where to position yourself based on your skill level.
For many of the surfers dropping in on the shoulder of an otherwise occupied wave, many show at least some skill and competency in catching a wave and so if that’s you, you need to go to the peak and wait your turn just like everyone else.
If there is a surfer sitting in a more critical spot, they always have priority.
Period.
And no, this isn’t elitist surf snobbery of worthiness, it’s about experience, skill, and mastering the fundamentals of reading waves.
If the thought of sitting at the peak is too intimidating to you, then you might want to reconsider the location, conditions, and your abilities for that particular session. If you lack the skills to take off at the right spot and it’s a crowded lineup, consider practicing at less crowded breaks where you can practice on smaller waves and/or hire a proper surf coach to help you with wave reading and positioning.
If all of that is over your head, the next best place (and where I often recommend beginner surfers to sit) is to catch whitewater waves on the inside.
Why?
Because here you will get access to so many more waves, you will stay out of more experienced surfers way, and you will get more practice on your fundamentals including board control. Will you get tired more quickly? It’s likely, but you will also accelerate your learning process and more quickly become a more competent and safer surfer.
All that said, there are more experienced surfers who will sit on the shoulder for whatever reason to pick off the scraps of a wave in case the surfer who caught the wave from the peak for some reason loses the wave or falls.
While there is no issue in doing this, just make sure you’re sitting on the shoulder for the right reasons, and accept that you will have to back off of 99.999% of all of the waves in the ocean because you are ultimately not sitting in the correct spot to safely catch and surf that wave.
I personally find it a frustrating and unproductive technique.
If you’re looking to avoid a crowded peak, there are a lot of other strategies that I personally prefer over sitting, waiting, and hoping, but that’s just me.
What are your thoughts and experiences?
Have you been in any of the situations highlighted in Brad’s video?
My intention in writing this was certainly not to berate anyone, and it’s not meant to be a personal attack in any way shape or form.
My intention is that by speaking out and highlighting some of the things we see out in the water, we can create a safer and more enjoyable experience for everyone out there in the water.
Surfing is hard and the ocean demands our respect.
I invite you, to let her be your humble teacher, paddle out with an open mind, and hopefully with a bit more awareness than you had before.
Animo,
Jenn
I break down why you should resist the urge to surf Malibu with examples of the pure chaos that exist there. Find me on instagram: me on...
