24/09/2026
SALKANTAY trail that first gave me confidence, then took it away again 😊
After my rather dramatic start in Cusco, the first day of hiking was an acclimatization hike to Humantay Lake (4200m).
It felt surprisingly great. I had plenty of energy, and for a moment I thought- Ok, maybe I am completely fine again. That confidence lasted exactly until the next morning.
When the real climb towards Salkantay started, I felt as if I had gone straight back to where I had started – very low energy, no strength, and every step felt brutal.
Not ideal, considering that this turned into a 12-hour, 24 km hiking day, all of it in cold and rain, before we finally reached the first possible place to spend the night. That day was tough. Really tough.
During this trip together with our group members some new terminology was born, like, “El Fuko” mountain to describe particularly horrible trail conditions and “Death soup” – our name for traditional soup that seemed to appear alongside Lomo Saltado at almost every pit stop. (sorry, Peru, but you won’t be my culinary destination!)
But this is also what I loved about Salkantay – the trail changes completely.
The following days were totally opposite: warmer, greener, easier and much more enjoyable. 🌴We descended into the jungle, walked through tropical vegetation and ate mangoes 🥭 , avocados 🥑 and 🍌 along the way.
One of the highlights of the trek was staying in Lia B&B and enjoying a coffee tour by Freddy. What was supposed to be a simple introduction to local coffee turned into probably one of the most entertaining product presentations I have seen in a long time. Energy, storytelling, humor, passion – Freddy could probably sell coffee to people who don’t even drink it. 😊
While official distance of Salkantay trail is about 74km, Garmin was showing ca 100km of walk by the end. And just like Peru in general, Salkantay was a bit of a love-or-hate experience from day to day: cold mountains, rain, exhaustion, jungle, fresh fruit, coffee, great people – and something completely different around every corner.
Next stop: Machu Picchu.