Grande Passione

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Grande Passione Wine begins with pleasure. Exploring wine through culture, place, and human story. Tastings, courses, events, and conversations from Verona, Italy.

Founded by JC Viens.

The last grapes are in. Across Valpolicella, the best bunches now rest in the fruttai until December.This year the gestu...
17/10/2026

The last grapes are in. Across Valpolicella, the best bunches now rest in the fruttai until December.

This year the gesture carries more weight. In March, Italy chose the rite of laying the grapes to rest as its nomination for UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Intangible heritage protects what people know and pass on: which bunches can survive three months of rest, how to watch over them, when to leave them alone.

None of this fits in a manual. No two autumns are alike. A hot year asks for a different eye at selection, and a foggy November asks for different care in the loft. Fans and sensors help, but the decisions stay human, made by people who learned them beside a father or a neighbour. The candidacy came from the families themselves, worried that a world of standard methods would flatten what makes this place distinct. Here they call it saper fare. Over generations it has become fare sapere: what a family knows how to do becomes the way Valpolicella expresses its identity.

That is what UNESCO will be asked to recognise.

**eisforpleasure

Monday evenings at the Atelier: 6 w**es blind, 2 themed flights, and 90 minutes of serious tasting practice in a small g...
08/10/2026

Monday evenings at the Atelier: 6 w**es blind, 2 themed flights, and 90 minutes of serious tasting practice in a small group.

We work through deduction, connection and judgement using the WSET Level 4 tasting grid together with my Style & Quality framework.

Open to WSET students and alumni, sommeliers, MW students and anyone serious about improving their tasting.

Past students of mine receive a special discount. Contact me directly for the code.

Maximum 12 people.

More information and dates:
https://atelier.grandepassione.com/pages/degustazione-alla-cieca-del-lunedi

A dear friend from my past just sent me these pages from an old Ralph Lauren catalogue.I had kept them on my desk throug...
21/09/2026

A dear friend from my past just sent me these pages from an old Ralph Lauren catalogue.

I had kept them on my desk throughout my university years, from 1987 to 1993. I remember reading these words everyday and promising myself that this was how I wanted to live my life.

“There is a depth and quality of experience that is lived and felt, a recognition of what is truly meaningful.”

Nearly forty years later, those words feel remarkably familiar.

Time. Attention. Memory. Beauty. Craftsmanship. Things that endure and acquire personal meaning. The ability to experience something fully.

I realise how much Grande Passione has gradually moved into this territory. Perhaps I have been trying, in my own way, to return to that promise I made to myself all those years ago.

These days I often ask myself a simple question:

Can I live in such a way that the quality I admire in beautiful things and people become the quality of my own days?

At 58, I have the experience, independence, place, knowledge and freedom to try.

Maybe that was always the idea.

**eisforpleasure

Some landscapes stay with you.The Langhe, looking across from Serralunga. Vineyards folded into the hills, villages sitt...
20/09/2026

Some landscapes stay with you.

The Langhe, looking across from Serralunga. Vineyards folded into the hills, villages sitting on ridges, every slope carrying the marks of generations who have worked here.

We speak about terroir through soil, exposure, altitude, grape variety. Nebbiolo ripens late here, historically demanding the right slopes and exposures. Standing here, I kept thinking about something harder to measure.

A grower knowing a slope almost by instinct, after years walking it. The fear before a hailstorm, watching the sky over that ridge instead of the vines. The same view, morning and evening, through every season, for a lifetime.

Surely some of that enters the w**e: the patience, the attachment to one place, maybe the feeling of owing it something worthy.

Perhaps w**e can carry the physical conditions of a place, and something of what it feels like to live inside it. The accumulated emotions of looking at the same hills year after year, bottled with the fruit.

A landscape, looked at long enough, finding its way into a bottle.

**eisforpleasure **e

A few weeks ago, I asked whether we were looking at the wrong story in the Canada–U.S. dispute.My argument was that some...
18/09/2026

A few weeks ago, I asked whether we were looking at the wrong story in the Canada–U.S. dispute.

My argument was that something larger than tariffs might be happening. Canada was being forced to think about its leverage differently: energy, critical minerals, three oceans, the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence, Churchill, the Northwest Passage and, increasingly, the Arctic.

I ended with a question: how much leverage does Canada’s geography actually give it?

Events this week make that question considerably more interesting.

Ursula von der Leyen has proposed taking Canada–Europe relations far beyond CETA, including defence, energy, critical minerals, technology and economic security. And she singled out one area:

“We will make the Arctic a flagship joint project.” (European Commission Cyprus)

Then Mark Carney went to the European Parliament and made an argument remarkably close to the one I had been wondering about.

He said that “diversity confers advantage” and specifically listed Canada’s “unique Arctic geography” among the assets Canada brings to a deeper European partnership. (Prime Minister Canada)

Look at the map again.

Canada and the European Arctic countries account for six of the eight Arctic states: Canada, Denmark through Greenland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden and Finland.

Suddenly Canada’s third coast has another dimension.

It is part of a geographic arc running from the Canadian Arctic through Greenland and Iceland into the Nordic High North.

Canada brings territory, energy, critical minerals, Atlantic access and Arctic geography. Europe brings market scale, capital, technology and defence-industrial capacity.

Together, those things can turn geography into options.

And options are leverage.

This is where I think the story gets particularly interesting.

For decades, access to the enormous American market made many of Canada’s other possibilities secondary. The current confrontation is forcing Canada to develop them much more seriously: new trade relationships, alternative export corridors, Arctic infrastructure, defence partnerships, critical-mineral supply chains and deeper ties with Europe.

Churchill was one example in my previous post. I now see it as one piece of a much larger map.

The more credible these alternatives become, the greater Canada’s freedom of action becomes in dealing with Washington.

That may produce an extraordinary unintended consequence.

American pressure appears designed to increase U.S. leverage over Canada. Yet that same pressure may be accelerating the relationships and infrastructure that allow Canada to rely less heavily on Washington.

And Europe may now be multiplying the value of something Canada already possessed: its geography.

Perhaps that is the next chapter in this story.

Canada is discovering that its third coast provides more than another route to the world.

It places the country at the western end of an emerging North Atlantic and Arctic strategic space stretching through Greenland towards Europe.

The tariff dispute may eventually prove important for a reason few of us were discussing when it began: it forced Canada to look at the map differently.

My first book, Reading W**e, began with something I saw again and again while teaching w**e for the last 20 years. Peopl...
14/09/2026

My first book, Reading W**e, began with something I saw again and again while teaching w**e for the last 20 years. People who knew a great deal about w**e, the grapes, the regions, the vintages, the whole vocabulary, still felt uncertain the moment the glass was actually in front of them.

Knowing a w**e and reading one are not the same thing.

This book closes that gap: a way to place a w**e before judging it, to judge it fairly on its own terms, and to understand why it became what it is. Not more facts, but a way to make sense of the ones you already have.

It is now beginning to find its readers.

Available on Amazon. Link in bio.

**e **eEducation **eIsForPleasure

22 years! A lifetime of adventures, an opportunity to learn and to grow. An equilibrium found. A relationship that enric...
11/09/2026

22 years! A lifetime of adventures, an opportunity to learn and to grow. An equilibrium found. A relationship that enriches life, pushes boundaries and transforms my worldview. Happy anniversary !

Why do people from all over the world come to Harry’s Bar in Venice for a Bellini?There’s the pleasure of drinking it wh...
07/09/2026

Why do people from all over the world come to Harry’s Bar in Venice for a Bellini?

There’s the pleasure of drinking it where it was invented. There’s the history of the room, where Hemingway, Orson Welles and Peggy Guggenheim once spent time. And then there’s the drink itself.

In 1948, Giuseppe Cipriani combined white-peach purée with Prosecco. He loved the fragrance of white peaches and wanted to capture it in a glass. Originally, you had to come during peach season to enjoy one.

Its pink colour reminded him of a painting of Giovanni Bellini, the Venetian Renaissance master. A rather lovely way to name a cocktail.

I love watching the preparation: the white jacket, the careful pour, those small glasses lined up along the counter. There is already pleasure in the anticipation.

The Bellini’s story is as fascinating as the drink is delicious. And drinking one here, where it all began, makes Venice feel a little more personal.

Are we looking at the wrong story in the Canada–U.S. dispute?I have been following the breakdown of the Canada–U.S. nego...
28/08/2026

Are we looking at the wrong story in the Canada–U.S. dispute?

I have been following the breakdown of the Canada–U.S. negotiations with growing curiosity, because I find it difficult to believe that the real issue is confined to tariffs on cars, steel, aluminium and lumber.

Something larger seems to be happening.

The sequence of events last week caught my attention. On Wednesday 19 August, the two sides appeared close to an agreement. Dominic LeBlanc returned to Ottawa to brief Mark Carney. Early the following morning he flew urgently back to Washington with Marc-André Blanchard, Carney’s chief of staff. Neither had originally planned to be there that day.

That afternoon, Foreign Minister Anita Anand was also in Washington, meeting Secretary of State Marco Rubio. Among the subjects discussed were Arctic policy and continental security.

Within another day, the agreement had collapsed.

There is a documented explanation for LeBlanc and Blanchard’s hurried return: Howard Lutnick had intervened over autos, steel, aluminium and heavy trucks. That matters. Still, the presence of the prime minister’s chief of staff tells us how political the negotiations had become, while another senior Canadian minister was discussing the Arctic and continental security with Rubio at almost exactly the same moment.

We will probably never know the whole conversation. But perhaps we can ask a better question about the context in which it took place.

The United States is reconsidering how it exercises power in its own hemisphere. Trade, supply chains, critical minerals, energy, defence, shipping routes and strategic geography increasingly belong to the same calculation. China has understood this relationship between economic infrastructure and geopolitical influence for a long time. The United States now appears to be moving rapidly in the same direction.

Canada is central to that calculation in ways that are easy to overlook when attention is fixed on tariff percentages.

Look at the map.

Canada sits between Alaska and Greenland. It holds enormous energy and critical-mineral resources. It shares the Great Lakes–St. Lawrence system with the United States. It claims the Northwest Passage as internal Canadian waters, a position the United States has historically disputed. And Canada has access to three oceans.

The third ocean is becoming increasingly important.

Russia has spent years developing the Northern Sea Route. China is now making serious use of Arctic shipping along the Russian coast. As climate change makes these waters progressively more accessible, the Arctic becomes a commercial route, a military theatre, a resource frontier and a question of sovereignty at the same time.

This is where several apparently separate developments begin to connect.

Early in Trump’s second term, he reportedly questioned some of the historic arrangements governing the Great Lakes and shared Canadian-American waters. His latest decision to call Lake Ontario “Lake America” is easy to dismiss as trolling, and perhaps that is partly what it is. Yet the White House itself justified the move by talking about shipping, defence, icebreaking, industrial supply chains and the strategic importance of the Great Lakes–St. Lawrence system.

At the other end of the country lies the Northwest Passage, where Canada and the United States have lived for decades with fundamentally different views of maritime jurisdiction.

And between these two sits Churchill.

I had initially thought of the redevelopment of the Port of Churchill mainly as another Canadian trade-diversification project. I am beginning to see it differently.

A serious Churchill corridor gives the Canadian interior another maritime outlet towards Europe. It strengthens our physical and logistical presence in the North. It provides another route when traditional continental corridors become politically or commercially vulnerable. The proposed development combines rail, roads, energy infrastructure, icebreaking and potentially four-season operation.

Trade, resilience and sovereignty meet in the same place.

That gives us an interesting geographical triangle:

Great Lakes and St. Lawrence in the south.

Churchill and Hudson Bay in the centre.

Northwest Passage and Arctic Ocean in the north.

Each serves a different Canadian strategic purpose, and each becomes more important as the relationship with the United States becomes less predictable.

This also changes the way I read Mark Carney’s strategy.

Canada remains highly dependent on the American market. At the same time, its strategic value is increasing. Energy, critical minerals, Arctic geography, defence, shipping routes and access to three oceans all matter more in the world that is emerging.

Carney seems to understand both sides of that equation.

His response has been to accelerate alternative trade relationships, major infrastructure, critical-mineral development, defence spending, Arctic capacity and export corridors. The purpose seems larger than surviving the current tariff dispute. Canada is creating options.

That may also explain why some American demands concerning Canada’s future trade relationships and economic alignment became questions of sovereignty for Ottawa.

If Washington wants a more tightly integrated North American economic and security perimeter, Canada has to decide how much freedom of action it is prepared to exchange for privileged access to the American market.

Seen from that perspective, last week may have involved something more consequential than a failed trade negotiation.

I was particularly struck by one sentence in Carney’s speech after the talks collapsed:

“We are masters in our own home, from coast to coast to coast.”

Growing up in Canada, I remember “coast to coast”. That was the familiar expression. The third coast was geographically there, of course, but it occupied a very different place in our national imagination.

Today that third coast is moving towards the centre of Canadian strategy.

Perhaps this is the larger story worth watching.

The question may eventually be less about the tariff rate on Canadian steel and more about the place Canada chooses to occupy in a reorganising North America — and how much leverage its geography gives it in making that choice.

Indirizzo

Verona

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