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http://www.fashionsystemdesign.unifi.it/

REI Fashion Lab, Calenzano (2026)

08/10/2026

L’1 e 2 ottobre, presso la University of Hull, Paolo Franzo, Denis Domenichetti e Andrea Badalamenti hanno partecipato all’incontro intermedio del progetto europeo IDEAL – Innovation-Driven Entrepreneurship and Academic Learning for Creative Industries, coordinato dall’Università di Firenze. Le due giornate hanno riunito l’intero consorzio per condividere risultati, confrontarsi sulle attività in corso, programmare i prossimi mesi di lavoro e individuare nuove opportunità di collaborazione. L’incontro è stato inoltre un’occasione per approfondire gli ecosistemi creativi e dell’innovazione delle diverse istituzioni, attraverso presentazioni, discussioni e workshop.
Un momento di collaborazione internazionale per mettere in comune esperienze e prospettive su innovazione, imprenditorialità, educazione e competenze nelle industrie culturali e creative.

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On 1 and 2 October, at the University of Hull, Paolo Franzo, Denis Domenichetti and Andrea Badalamenti took part in the mid-term meeting of the European project IDEAL – Innovation-Driven Entrepreneurship and Academic Learning for Creative Industries, coordinated by the University of Florence. The two-day meeting brought together the entire consortium to share results, discuss ongoing activities, plan the coming months of work and identify new opportunities for collaboration. The meeting also provided an opportunity to explore the creative and innovation ecosystems of the different institutions through presentations, discussions and workshops. A moment of international collaboration to share experiences and perspectives on innovation, entrepreneurship, education and skills within the cultural and creative industries.

Università degli Studi di Firenze
EIT
EIT Culture & Creativity
University of Hull
İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi
Hochschule der Medien (HdM)

06/10/2026

Emily Trenton
‘Bodily Pain: Textile Structures of Breath and Repair’

FASHION HIGHLIGHT
Issue 6 (2025)

This paper investigates sculptural knit as a site of somatic memory and embodied intelligence, proposing tenderness as an infrastructural logic within fashion textile technology. Grounded in lived experiences of chronic pain, sensory difference, and care, the research adopts a practice-based, research-through-design methodology to examine how industrial knitting and weaving can register breath, pain, and protection through material form. Through the case study Pain Bodies, the paper analyzes how knit architectures—through cavities, inlay, and compression—hold, archive, and respond to bodily states that resist linguistic expression. Inlay is articulated as both technique and ethical gesture, embedding memory, grief, and attentiveness directly into textile structure. Drawing on somatics, care ethics, and textile interaction design, the research reframes smart and adaptive textiles not as systems of optimization or spectacle, but as supportive companions for embodied regulation and persistence. By foregrounding inclusive craft, emotional durability, and responsiveness felt rather than measured, the paper contributes an alternative paradigm for fashion technology. It proposes textile technology as tender infrastructure—capable of listening to the body, sustaining vulnerability, and expanding how responsiveness is understood within future fashion textile systems.

Emiline

knit textiles infrastructure of care bodies

31/07/2026

I risultati di tre ricerche di Dottorato arricchiscono il dibattito sui temi contemporanei del sistema moda: Filippo Maria Disperati, Elena Pucci e Maria Antonia Salomè hanno concluso il loro percorso con tre tesi dedicate alle trasformazioni del settore.
Filippo Maria Disperati ha sviluppato la tesi Art Direction digitale e comunicazione sostenibile per la moda in Italia; Elena Pucci Il buco nero del sistema moda. Il contributo del design per la transizione sostenibile; Maria Antonia Salomè Re-think. Re-design. Re-start. Ripensare lo scarto tessile nella progettazione di moda.
Le tre ricerche restituiscono una lettura della moda come sistema complesso, affrontandone sfide e trasformazioni da prospettive complementari: dalla comunicazione sostenibile e dall’art direction digitale alla valorizzazione degli scarti pre e post consumo, fino al ruolo del design nella transizione verso modelli più circolari e responsabili.
Congratulazioni a Filippo, Elena e Maria Antonia e i migliori auguri per il loro percorso accademico e professionale.

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The outcomes of three PhD research projects contribute to the debate on contemporary fashion system: Filippo Maria Disperati, Elena Pucci, and Maria Antonia Salomè have completed their PhD journey with three theses addressing the transformations of the sector.
Filippo Maria Disperati developed the thesis Digital Art Direction and Sustainable Communication for Fashion in Italy; Elena Pucci The Black Hole of the Fashion System. The Contribution of Design to the Sustainable Transition; Maria Antonia Salomè Re-think. Re-design. Re-start. Rethinking Textile Waste in Fashion Design.
The three research projects offer a reading of fashion as a complex system, addressing its challenges and transformations from complementary perspectives: from sustainable communication and digital art direction to the valorisation of pre- and post-consumer waste, and the role of design in the transition towards more circular and responsible models.
Congratulations to Filippo, Elena, and Maria Antonia, and our best wishes for their academic and professional journeys.
Filippo Maria Disperati Tonia Salomé Elena Pucci

23/07/2026

Margherita Guttuso, studentessa magistrale in Design Sistema Moda, ha trascorso tre mesi di ricerca presso la Silpakorn University di Bangkok per sviluppare la propria tesi di laurea. Sotto la supervisione della ricercatrice Supawinee Charungkiattikul, ha approfondito il ruolo della comunicazione di moda e del marketing nella valorizzazione dell’heritage tessile e nella costruzione della brand identity. Tra i principali atenei thailandesi nei campi della moda, del design e dell’architettura, la Silpakorn University rappresenta un importante contesto per la ricerca e il confronto interdisciplinare. L’esperienza si inserisce nell’ambito degli accordi internazionali del Dipartimento di Architettura che intendono rafforzare il dialogo tra istituzioni, valorizzando lo scambio di conoscenze e lo sviluppo di nuove prospettive di ricerca.

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Margherita Guttuso, a Master’s student in Fashion System Design, spent three months conducting research at Silpakorn University in Bangkok as part of the development of her Master’s thesis. Under the supervision of Dr. Supawinee Charungkiattikul, she investigated the role of fashion communication and marketing in enhancing textile heritage and shaping brand identity. As one of Thailand’s leading universities in the fields of fashion, design, and architecture, Silpakorn University provides an important environment for research and interdisciplinary exchange. This experience forms part of the Department of Architecture’s international partnership agreements, which aim to strengthen dialogue between institutions while fostering knowledge exchange and the development of new research perspectives.

SUPAWINEE CHARUNGKIATTIKUl

21/07/2026

CALL FOR PAPERS
Fashion Highlight Journal
ISSUE 9

“CONVERGING TRANSFORMATIONS IN FASHION EDUCATION: TOWARDS RESPONSIBLE, INNOVATIVE, AND SUSTAINABLE LEARNING CULTURES”

Guest Editors: Romana Andò (La Sapienza University, Rome) and Shawana Khalil (Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design, Lahore)

Il nono numero di Fashion Highlight invita a una riflessione sulle trasformazioni della formazione in moda, tra digitalizzazione, intelligenza artificiale e nuove sfide ambientali e sociali. La call accoglie contributi che esplorino approcci pedagogici capaci di rispondere alla complessità del sistema moda contemporaneo, promuovendo pratiche formative inclusive, interdisciplinari e partecipative. Il numero indaga il ruolo della formazione nel rapporto tra patrimonio culturale, saperi artigianali, identità, tecnologie e sistemi globali della moda, attraverso prospettive decoloniali e modalità di apprendimento orientate alla responsabilità sociale e ambientale. L’obiettivo è contribuire al dibattito internazionale sulla formazione in moda, promuovendo modelli capaci di valorizzare la pluralità culturale.

La scadenza per l’invio dell’articolo completo è il 30 Novembre 2026. Il numero 9 sarà pubblicato nel 2027.

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The ninth issue of Fashion Highlight invites reflection on the transformations of fashion education, between digitalisation, artificial intelligence, and emerging environmental and social challenges. The call welcomes contributions that explore pedagogical approaches capable of addressing the complexity of the contemporary fashion system, promoting inclusive, interdisciplinary, and participatory learning practices. The issue investigates the role of education in relation to cultural heritage, craft knowledge, identity, technologies, and global fashion systems, through decolonial perspectives and learning approaches oriented towards social and environmental responsibility. The aim is to contribute to the international debate on fashion education by promoting models that value cultural plurality.

The deadline for submitting the full article is 30 November 2026. Issue 9 will be published in 2027.

14/07/2026

L’ edizione 2026 della conferenza internazionale Cumulus Athens dedicata al tema “Roots | Routes” - ospitata dalla University of West Attica School of Applied Arts and Culture – ha esplorato il dialogo tra radici e traiettorie future del design, promuovendo una riflessione sul ruolo di identità, cultura e innovazione nella ricerca progettuale. In questa occasione, nell’ambito della partecipazione dei dottorandi al dibattito scientifico, Denis Domenichetti ha presentato il contributo Advertising Campaigns as Vocabularies of Change: A Linguistic and Performative Analysis of Fashion Communication, mentre Anna Maria Azzini ha illustrato il lavoro Site, Process, Human Specific: A Systemic Design Framework for Circularity in the Fashion Industry, in un momento di confronto e condivisione internazionale.

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The 2026 edition of the Cumulus Athens international conference dedicated to the theme “Roots | Routes” - hosted by the University of West Attica School of Applied Arts and Culture – explored the dialogue between roots and future trajectories of design, promoting a reflection on the role of identity, culture, and innovation in design research. On this occasion, within the framework of the PhD students’ participation in the scientific debate, Denis Domenichetti presented the contribution Advertising Campaigns as Vocabularies of Change: A Linguistic and Performative Analysis of Fashion Communication, while Anna Maria Azzini illustrated the work Site, Process, Human Specific: A Systemic Design Framework for Circularity in the Fashion Industry, in a moment of international exchange and sharing.

09/07/2026

Patricia Wu Wu
‘Compositional Sensing’

FASHION HIGHLIGHT
Issue 6 (2026)

This paper explores how fashion design can critically engage with contemporary sensing technologies, not merely as tools for measurement, but as an active medium that shapes how bodies are seen and known. It proposes compositional sensing as a methodological framework in which sensing is treated as a dynamic, co-constructed process rather than a passive act of data capture. This approach is demonstrated through Dust Enforcer, a choreographed performance between a human wearing a reflective foil suit and a forensic grade lidar scanner. Rather than recording a static body, the scanner captures fluctuating densities, gaps, and spatial anomalies produced through movement, reflectivity, and interference. Each gesture becomes a compositional input, inscribing spatial data through a recursive feedback loop between the body and machine. What emerges is not a coherent silhouette, but a field of conditional appearances. Reframing fashion through Stan Allen’s theory of ‘field conditions’, the paper argues for a shift from designing objects to composing responsive environments for data generation. This offers new possibilities for designers to critically interrogate the epistemic assumptions embedded in sensing technologies, and to intervene in how bodies are constructed, represented, and governed through data.
wu.wu

asfieldconditions

07/07/2026

È online il Volume 7 di Fashion Highlight Journal, “The Languages of Fashion: Critical Reflections on Fashion Discourses”, con guest editor Benjamin Wild e Natalia Berger.
Questo numero esplora la complessità dei linguaggi della moda, analizzando il ruolo che i discorsi accademici, industriali e mediatici hanno nella costruzione del sistema moda contemporaneo. Attraverso prospettive interdisciplinari, i contributi riflettono sulle implicazioni teoriche e pratiche del linguaggio, mettendo in luce la necessità di nuove narrazioni capaci di affrontare le sfide ambientali, sociali e culturali del nostro tempo.

Immagine di copertina di Michelle Marshall

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Volume 7 of Fashion Highlight Journal, “The Languages of Fashion: Critical Reflections on Fashion Discourses”, is now available, guest edited by Benjamin Wild and Natalia Berger.
This issue explores the complexity of fashion’s languages, examining the role that academic, industry, and media discourses play in shaping the contemporary fashion system. Through interdisciplinary perspectives, the contributions reflect on the theoretical and practical implications of fashion discourse, highlighting the need for new narratives capable of addressing the environmental, social, and cultural challenges of our time.

Cover image by Michelle Marshall

Benjamin

15/06/2026

Siamo lieti di condividere un importante traguardo per Fashion Highlight Journal.
La rivista ha ottenuto il riconoscimento di Diamond Open Access, attribuito alle riviste scientifiche che adottano un modello di pubblicazione aperto e gratuito per autrici, autori, lettrici e lettori. Un riconoscimento che conferma il nostro impegno nella promozione di una ricerca aperta, accessibile e condivisa.
L’inclusione nel Diamond Discovery Hub, indice internazionale dedicato alle riviste Diamond Open Access, contribuirà a rafforzare la visibilità, la reperibilità e la diffusione dei contributi pubblicati, ampliandone la circolazione nella comunità scientifica internazionale.
Questo risultato è frutto dell’impegno dei comitati scientifico ed editoriale, che ringraziamo per la competenza e la dedizione con cui accompagnano lo sviluppo della rivista. Un sentito grazie va anche a tutte le autrici e gli autori che hanno scelto Fashion Highlight Journal per condividere le proprie ricerche, contribuendo alla crescita di una comunità scientifica aperta, rigorosa e partecipata.

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We are pleased to share an important milestone for Fashion Highlight Journal.
The journal has been recognized as a Diamond Open Access Journal, a distinction awarded to scholarly journals that adopt an open access publishing model free of charge for both authors and readers. This recognition reflects our commitment to promoting research that is open, accessible, and shared.
The journal’s inclusion in the Diamond Discovery Hub, an international index dedicated to Diamond Open Access journals, will further enhance the visibility, discoverability, and dissemination of the research we publish, strengthening its reach within the international scholarly community.
This achievement is the result of the commitment of our Scientific and Editorial Committees, whom we thank for their expertise and dedication in supporting the journal’s development. We also wish to thank all the authors who have chosen Fashion Highlight Journal to share their research, contributing to the growth of an open, rigorous, and collaborative scholarly community.

09/06/2026

Yanwei Zhang, dottoranda presso il College of Fashion and Design della Donghua University con specializzazione in Design Studies, per l’anno accademico 2025/2026 è visiting PhD presso il REI Fashion Lab dell’Università degli Studi di Firenze. Durante questo anno accademico, a partire dalla ricerca “Made in Italy with Chinese”, svolgerà attività di fieldwork sull’industria dell’abbigliamento a conduzione cinese nel distretto tessile di Prato. Condurrà interviste con imprenditori, designer, modellisti e altri professionisti del settore per osservare le attuali tendenze del comparto e le innovazioni nel design, e per approfondire il ruolo proattivo delle imprese cinesi all’interno della manifattura italiana.

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Yanwei Zhang is a Ph.D. Candidate at the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, with a major in Design Studies. During the academic year 2025/2026 she is a visiting Ph.D. student at the REI Fashion Lab, University of Florence.
During this academic year, guided by the research question “Made in Italy with Chinese”, she will conduct fieldwork on the Chinese-owned garment industry in Prato. She will carry out interviews with company owners, designers, pattern makers, and other professionals in order to observe current industry trends and design innovations, and to investigate the proactive role of Chinese-owned enterprises within Italian manufacturing.

REI Fashion Lab

08/10/2026

06/10/2026

31/07/2026

23/07/2026

21/07/2026

14/07/2026

09/07/2026

07/07/2026

15/06/2026

09/06/2026

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