23/08/2026
Hard Mode 🕹
I'd not heard it put this way before, but aye: as Euan pointed out, the Cuillin is Scottish mountains in hard mode. Rougher, pointier and more end-level technical, obviously. But you also start from sea level (actually below the high tide mark on Friday), the weather is worse (especially this summer), and you see this lovely grippy solid gabbro that we're walking on? Unfortunately a lot of the ridge crest is not going to be that, but loose shattered stuff which is slippery as ice when it's wet. If that's not enough, what's happened here? Oh, the ravens are smarter than anywhere else, and they've stolen all your food. Yes, that particular vocalisation, as they give a breakneck flyby in mockery of our clunky bipedal progress, is them laughing at you.
A promising weekend forecast dwindled to borderline, and we set off from Loch Scavaig with full packs, nothing stashed, and mizzle in the air. The first quarter of the ridge was misty and dank, but by the time we reached the increased difficulties and exposure of Coire Lagan the rocks were drying and the rest of the day gave the views that you come for, with the brocken spectre filter switched on. The tickle of rain on the face then pattering on the bivi bag at 4am was not forecast or welcome, and the second morning again started cold and manky. On we carefully plugged, until the rocks got drier and the views began to open. At the summit of Gillean the cloud and mizzle was back, but she was in the bag. A strong performance from Geordie and Euan in legs, head and personal admin, all making the job of guiding easier!
The only Cuillin Ridge Traverse I had booked this year, in a summer which one Skye local described as 'permanent autumn'; I'll take a 100% success rate! 😅🙌
