Charlotta's Pattern Cutting School

Honest pattern cutting. This dress was supposed to be simple…

A year ago I made a sewing pattern inspired by the famous 1950s 1 hour dress.

It all started well:

1. Drafting it from my block was easy- I knew the sewing pattern would fit me and I even added a Dior inspired dart.
2. The toile fit well, just needed a bit of contouring in the wrap.
3. It felt comfortable and moved well.

Then I made it in fabric hated it:

1. The double layered skirt would move up when walking and also open up with any gust of wind.

2. The bodice looked great if tied very tightly, but as the knot loosened the armhole would distort.

After wearing it out I nearly cut it up to reuse the fabric, but didn’t want to waste a pretty style and all the drafting and sewing work.

So I did a very DIY fix:

1. I pinned it together at the side seams and stitched up one side. On the other I inserted a simple zip.
2. I changed the wrap skirt to a fake wrap.
3. Added pockets made out of lining fabric- they keep the layers apart.

Would I do this for a production pattern/ if making for someone else? Probably not at it’s not the most conventional approach. But for a personal make it works for my requirements and was a quick and easy fix.

Have you made the 1 hour dress? Was it a success?

1.

Pattern cutting inspiration: “Devil wears Prada” Prada Coat.
This coat retails for over £4000 so it’s definitely worth making your own sewing pattern!

The full tutorial is part of my personal guides I make for my students each month on my pattern cutting school: www.patterncuttingschool.com

Sleeve fit and movement don’t always happen together. For grown on styles like this, you can add a gusset for extra movement.

In gusset sleeves it’s part of the drafting process, but you can also add a gusset afterwards to any sleeves which don’t allow you the movement you need.

Balenciaga inspiration

Sleeve inspiration: Balenciaga

Full video out on YouTube - 30 minutes of pattern cutting deep dive

Sleeve puzzle: Spot the common fitting issue.

What do you think is wrong with the sleeve? Please let me know in the comments.

This is a bought coat, the back isn’t perfect either- bonus point if you can already see what is wrong with it too.

Simple Bias top: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9CeiZGFTs2z1LkgipKZ_uVGhzgf_2GSp

Perfect for 1930s inspired tops. You can use any bodice block or sewing pattern ( take off the seam allowance) to make an one pice top

Pattern cutting inspiration. Find the full tutorial for this 1972 Pierre Cardin on my YT Channel.
Have a lovely weekend!