20/03/2025
We are in search of wild horses- in Ecuador! Yes, Ecuador. About a 90 minute drive outside of Quito, we arrive at Tierra del Volcan, a hacienda on the outskirts of the Cotopaxi National Park, known for its world class rock climbing and volcano. In and around the park there are several herds of wild horses, called párameros because of their adaptation to the extreme, tundra-like environment called the paramo.
Introduced by the Spanish conquistadors, these horses have adapted and survived at 4000-5000 meters (13,000-16,500 feet) but unlike the wild horses in the United States, they do not experience the population explosions. Like the United States however, they have very few predators here but we are told that things just grow slower at this altitude and that seems to be enough to slow the population growth. It is also interesting to note that the tundra is more swamp like and offers no rocks or abrasion to keep the horses hooves trimmed.
When we arrive at the Tierra Del Volcan, we are greeted with some delicious cheese-filled empanadas, and some hot tea. The addition of Trópico an alcohol said to help with altitude sickness, is optional.
We then get ready for the journey by putting on some very heavy wool chaps, a wool poncho and our helmets before heading out to pair with our horses. The horses here are of no particular breed, they are smaller in stature and all of them have adapted to live at this high altitude. Our guides, Maria Jose and Gabrielle, give us an overview of what to expect on the journey up the mountain and how the weather changes constantly at that altitude. Although it is warm now, it will get cooler as we ride up the mountain, and the heat from the horses will be caught underneath our wool ponchos and keep us warm. We also have rain ponchos when it will undoubtedly rain.
Riding up the mountain, feeling the movement of the horse, taking in the air, the views…simply exhilarating. True to the words of our guides, we did in fact experience a wide variety of weather patterns. The view of the Cotopaxi volcano was shielded by a storm and just as we spotted the wild horses, the weather turned and our guides said it was time to head back. But we spotted them!
Once we were returned, we were met with warm, refreshing towels, and sat in the Hacienda by the roaring fire to have some more tea. After that, some lunch with only incredibly fresh and local foods like trout caught from the rivers nearby, tomato soup simmered with volcanic rock from the volcano, and huckleberry crisp. Wait, what? Huckleberries? We thought these were only grown in Montana and Idaho. But no, we saw them growing wild as we were riding up the mountain. What an incredible experience.
And the Tierra Del Volcan has more adventures!
With the Spanish conquistadors and the horses, also came the introduction of cattle. There are hundreds of cattle kept on the mountain side and three times a year the cattle are rounded up, with the same horses we rode, and brought into the corrals for health checks, and some being separated for sale. Chagras, meaning Indian cowboys (Indian referring to pre-Incan) come from all over the area to participate in the rounding of the wild “bulls”. The Chagras have been doing this for generations. In fact, the family owners of the Tierra Del Volcan say they have been doing this since they were six years old (and so have their children). It is a dangerous adventure that is part skill but mainly requires having trust in your horse. The horses know exactly what to do.
If you are feeling up for an adventure, you can visit their website for opportunities to participate as an observer or a rider. And if you choose to be a rider, you will want to follow the ways of the Chagras and drink lots of Trópico beforehand, since it is also the drink of bravery!
An article about the experience can be found in the comments, as can a link to their website.
