Annie's Essences

Lavender Care
Soil
Lavender plants and rosemary plants require well-drained neutral to alkaline soil, although Lavandula stoechas subsp. stoechas (which always grows in acid soil in the wild) and to a lesser extent Lavandula x intermedia, can thrive in slightly acid soil. If your soil is naturally good for growing rhododendrons and heathers add lime to raise the pH. About a handful per square metre in early spring should be sufficient. In heavy soil mix in grit when planting to improve drainage and plant on a slight mound. Wet soil in winter can have a terrible effect on half-hardy and frost hardy lavenders and it is wet soil, rather than frost that is more likely to kill these plants.

Site
Plant lavender and rosemary in a sunny position or at least where they are in the sun for most of the day. Don‘t grow them under a leaf canopy. Many can be grown in pots (see below).

Spacing
For informal plantings we recommend 45cm-90cm (18in-36in) between plants, depending on their eventual size. Planting in groups of three is very effective. For hedging, lavenders to 60cm (24in) and rosemaries may be planted 40-45cm (15-18in) apart. For a formal lavender hedge use one type – the effect is stunning! Any of the angustifolia and x intermedia lavenders make a fine hedge as do all upright rosemaries.

Planting in the Garden
Ensure the soil and site are as described above. Moisten the plant compost, but do not waterlog. Dig a hole and add a dusting of bonemeal to the hole, and the soil removed from it, and mix in. Fill the hole with water and allow to drain away. Place the plant in the hole and fill to the level of the compost around the plant and firm in. In dry conditions water the soil around the plant, but do not over water. It‘s easier to add water than to dry out the soil! Be attentive in the first few weeks after planting, especially if the weather is dry.

Planting in Pots
Tender and half-hardy lavenders and dwarf lavender and rosemary are ideal for 30-40cm (12-15in) terracotta pots and look particularly impressive on the patio. Use a mix of one third each of soilless compost, John Innes No.2 or 3 and coarse grit. For feeding, pop in a plug or two of slow release fertilizer, which should last all season. Short plants are great for growing in pots, but watch out for the fibrous roots of all lavender stoechas species and cultivars and the vigorous root systems of all rosemaries. Both will need potting-on regulary.

Watering
This should be unnecessary after establishment, except plants in pots which need frequent watering during summer. See also Overwintering below.

Feeding
Little feeding is required, although a sprinkling of potash around the base of plants will encourage more prolific flowering and improved flower colour. Don‘t add bulky manure or high nitrogen feed as your lavenders in particular, will grow very sappy and flop open.

Harvesting
Most lavender for culinary use is harvested when in full coloured bud before the individual flowers open. They can be added to ingredients while fresh or can be dried first.
To use lavender for drying and pot-pourri, harvest just before full-bloom and hang upside down in bunches in a dry dark room.

Overwintering
Tender and half-hardy lavenders and frost hardy lavenders grown in pots should be given protection in light, airy conditions. These plants need very little water from November to February. Wait until the pot is noticeably lighter or even until plants start to wilt and then water only on top of the compost. Never water over the foliage in winter. These plants find still, moist air rather unpleasant!

Pruning
We field more enquiries on how to prune lavenders than on anything else, so some detail is required. It‘s very important task that demands a strong constitution, because generally the harder the lavenders are pruned, the longer they will last. They require different treatment according to hardiness (see below).

Hardy Lavenders
These normally flower just once, but may have a weak second flush after pruning. To keep them really under control don‘t be frightened to chop them back to just 22cm (9in) or about a third into the foliage immediately after flowering… they love it! It‘s particularly important to be severe with the x intermedia lavenders, even if you have to sacrifice some late flowers. If there‘s a good smattering of small shoots visible below where you cut they‘ll grow strongly even from old wood, but beware, no shoots means no plant next year as your lavender will die. The exception is Dutch lavender, such as Dutch Group, Fragrant Memories and Lullingstone Castle. These flower well into autumn so just remove the flower stems then and prune into the foliage when the sap’s up, usually in March. If pruned at the correct time, new growth should leave lavenders overwintering as lovely leafy hummocks. Expect hardy lavenders to last up to 20 years, half that on a heavy clay soil.

You can even try to save that old gnarledlavender that has an arm‘s length of bare wood topped with a mass of growth. Prune to within a hand‘s width of the bare wood to see if this encourages sprouting further down the plant. If it does sprout, then when you next prune do the same again, until you can‘t see the ground beneath the plant. Of course if it doesn‘t sprout after the first prune put it on the bonfire and enjoy it‘s last lingering smoky perfume…

Image result for lavender in summer
While Lavender is usually regarded as a summer-blooming flower, some Lavender plants are early bloomers with their magnificent blooms appearing early in spring. ... Planting one of each in your garden will reward you with heavenly fragrance and attractive flower spikes from spring until late summer !

You can plant a new lavender shrub at any time after the last spring frost until fall, although lavender planted in late summer or fall requires at least two months to establish!
Ofcourse in Cyprus we don’t get the frost especially in the towns but also in the mountains it doesn’t affect it!!

Lavender Tea health benefits includes supporting tired muscles, treating insomnia, working as an antiseptic, maintaining cardiovascular health, treating indigestion, fighting inflammation, work as a detoxifier, improves respiratory health, treating acne, treating headache, restore body cells.
ous health benefits associated with each part of the plant. The buds, roots, leaves, flowers of the beautiful plant are packed with nutrients that can fulfill distinctive health deficiencies.

Scientific studies have proved its positive effects on the human digestive and respiratory health. Therefore, consuming lavender tea is suggested to treat various major or minor health issues.

First time in years my lavender have all blossomed at this time of the year!!

A hardy plant for sunny dry spots and one of the longest-blooming semi-shrubs around, lavender (genus Lavandula) would earn a place in most sunny gardens even if it didn’t have such a heavenly scent. There’s more good news, too: lavender is easy to prune, and when you do it, you’ll be covered for the rest of the day in those aromatic oils.
Lavender: a Semi-Shrub to Tame
Lavender is a semi-shrub, subshrub, a plant that looks like a perennial because most of its growth is soft and green, but its older base stems will turn to wood. Knowing this is going to help you prune your lavender. Deep at the center of the mounded semi-shrub, your lavender plant is trying to turn to wood. One goal of pruning lavender is to slow down that transformation, for a few reasons:

Lavender wood is very weak and prone to splitting due to snow, ice, and water-rot.
Unlike many true shrubs and trees, lavender wood that has formed usually does not rejuvenate.
Old wood will stop producing new shoots or will produce spaced-out shoots, detracting from the plant's overall appearance.
Pruning heavily every year will help slow down the formation of wood and extend the vigor and lifetime of your plant.

Hello my dear friends!!
Although we do have real winter this year which is the best for our forestry for all our gardens, trees ,fruit trees ,etc!!!
But do you believe that one can have lavender blossoming this time of the year!!!
Well yes !!
My lavenders have blossomed!!!

Lavender smells amazingly,
inspires you during Xmas !!!!!

The best planting time for lavender is fall. October's cooler temperatures, low to moderate rainfall and less intense sun work well for planting lavender. By establishing itself in fall and winter, lavender is ready to bloom in spring.
Ofcourse in our country Cyprus one can plant lavender in November and December!! With our temperatures being so high!

Planting Tips
Lavender doesn't need to be fertilized except in the poorest soils. More important than soil fertility is soil drainage. Peat moss will contribute to soil drainage and moisture retention, while acidifying the soil slightly. Spread a 1-inch layer of peat moss over the area where you wish to plant your lavender, and work it into the soil with a rake or a hoe. Break up the soil and remove any rocks you find. Dig a hole deep enough for the root ball of the lavender, but no deeper than the root ball. Place the lavender in the hole, fill in any spaces with the amended soil. Water the lavender deeply after planting.
Establishing Lavender
Although lavender is drought-tolerant once established, it will need diligent watering until it becomes established in its new spot. Water lavender once a week, or twice weekly, if needed. Check the soil around the lavender with a moisture meter and do not allow the soil to dry out. Do not water the lavender when rainwater supplies the necessary moisture. By spring, the new plants should be established and will require less frequent watering.
Regular Care
Water your lavender infrequently -- once every two weeks. At the height of the summer, your lavender may need more frequent watering, but do not allow the soil to become waterlogged. Check the soil with a moisture meter when in doubt. Lavender can tolerate drought but not constantly wet soil. Prune off blossoms in late June or early July, at the height of color, to encourage a second round of blossoming by October. Use sanitized pruning shears to cut the blossom stems below the crown of leaves.

Dear friends!!
Time to prune Lavender!!
Pruning lavender. You prune lavender by cutting it back by two thirds in the second half of August and you can cut into the bare wood, if needed. ... You can give lavender another tidy in April to delay flowering time.

Lavender after it blooms?
Lavandins bloom later, in mid- to late-summer, so a full pruning after the long blooming season will prepare it for winter. Because of its long stems, you may need to prune up to one-half the plant's size, but be extra careful not to cut the woody part of the plant.
So now for our hot climates in Cyprus is good to prune, ofcourse you can stii prune in October, November as our temperatures are still hight!!
So trim your Laventers!!!

Hello dear friends, after some time!
Just to remind you of a few things!

What is the best time of year to plant lavender?
Planting Time. The best planting time for lavender is fall. October's cooler temperatures, low to moderate rainfall and less intense sun work well for planting lavender. By establishing itself in fall and winter, lavender is ready to bloom in spring
How do You trim lavender bushes and when?
Method 1 Trimming During the Growing Season
Wait until the second year to trim a lavender shrub. ...
Trim lavender right when the flowers open. ...
Use a very clean set of pruning shears. ...
Gather the stalks and trim the shrub back by a third. ...
Trim again when the second flush of flowers opens.
Image titled Trim Lavender Step 6
1
Prune to an inch above the wood. In the fall, after the second flush has come and gone, prune the stems down to an inch above the wood. Pruning the shrub to prep for winter will make it much more likely to survive the harsh weather.
Taking the time to do this will also help to prevent more of the shrub from turning to wood. The parts of the plant that turn to wood won't produce new lavender stalks; the stalks grow from new shoots that emerge from the shrub every year. A big, woody base is prone to cracking or rotting, so the idea is to keep it from getting too woody.

Dry the lavender. After you've trimmed lavender, you can display it in a vase or dry it for further use. To dry lavender, you have three choices: you can tie it into bunches and hang it up, lay it out in the sun and let it dry over the course of a few days, or use a food dehydrator.
To hang your lavender to dry, use a rubber band to tie the stems together. Hang the lavender bunch upside-down in a cool, dry spot. Allow it to dry for a week or two. Drying lavender this way preserves its color and scent.
To dry your lavender in the sun, lay it flat on a screen, and set the screen in a sunny spot. The lavender will dry over the course of 5 days or so. Lavender dried in the sun tends to fade to a lighter color.