Centre for Fashion & Systemic Change

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Centre for Fashion & Systemic Change

Research Centre for Fashion Diversity & Social Change at School of Fashion, Toronto Met University.

04/26/2023

Our social media will be quiet as we are taking a break for the summer. We will see you in the fall as we continue to explore social and environmental justice through fashion!
If you want to get in touch with us you can always email the Centre at [email protected]

[Image Description: An image of a toy van with luggage on the roof on a beach and text that reads: We're on Summer Break See You in the Fall].

04/18/2023

Fashion Studies Feature!
From Special Issue State of the Field

Colectivo Malvestidas (Poorly Dressed Collective): Critical Practices in Fashion, Clothing, and the Body. By Tamara Poblete and Loreto Martínez

Special Issue: State of the Field, Issue 1, Article 5

A(R)MADAS (a Spanish pun for beloved and armed) was performed by the Chilean collective entitled Malvestidas on December 19, 2021 in commemoration of the National Day Against Femicide. In Chile, and Latin America in general, over the course of the last two years, the COVID-19 pandemic has dramatically exposed gender inequalities and gender-based social emergencies. This is due to the increase in violence against women, children, migrants, and gender-sex dissidents. Prior to the staging of A(R)MADAS, for a few months, the Malvestidas collected used kitchen towels from family members and female friends, with which they made “domestic fighters” clothing with a nod to female samurai warriors. The original state of each kitchen cloth was preserved. The intervention took place in the so-called Plaza de la Dignidad (former Plaza Baquedano), the epicenter of social mobilizations in Chile from the popular revolt of 2019 to date. A(R)MADAS ends with the Malvestidas unifying their skirts to turn them into a large canvas on which they wrote INDOMESTICABLES (UNDOMESTICABLE). “Indomesticable” in Spanish means something that cannot be tamed. In the context of performance, it also alludes to the domestic as a political space represented by kitchen clothes.

Photo credit: Rodrigo Arenas

[Image Description: Two individuals standing in front of a monument holding a sign made of textiles with the word "indomesticables" written on it].

04/14/2023

Fashion Studies Feature!
Let My Hair Be: An Investigation of Employee Authenticity and Organizational Appearance Policies Through the Lens of Black Women's Hair. By Tina Opie

Volume 1, Issue 1, 2018

Abstract:
Appearance policies — formal or informal dress codes that set organizational expectations for how employees “should” appear at work (Pratt & Rafaeli, 1997; Society for Human Resource Management, 2016) are typically based on Eurocentric ideals of professionalism (Bell & Nkomo, 2003). Appearance policies are often enforced by well-intentioned managers striving to foster a professional workforce (Society for Human Resource Management, 2016), yet such policies may conflict with increasing organizational efforts to encourage employee authenticity. The current paper investigates how men, the primary decision-makers in the workplace, evaluate Black women’s Afrocentric hair at work. The paper focuses on Black women because they are often at the bottom of the workplace hierarchy (Catalyst, 2016b) and are confronted with both gender and racial inequities. The paper focuses on hair because it is a visual display of identity (Opie & Phillips, 2015) and fashion (Barnard, 2014) that may reflect how individuals choose to express their authenticity (Opie & Freeman, 2017). Further, hair is subjectively evaluated based on societal notions of professionalism, making Black women’s hair a helpful, intersectional lens through which to investigate the gendered and racialized bounds of workplace appearance.

[Image Description: A multi-coloured background features the articles title and author (written in post) and a photo of the backs of two Black women's heads highlighting their hairstyles]

04/12/2023

Reposted from Studies

You’re invited to the virtual launch of the special issue of Fashion Studies, State of the Field. The event will feature a panel conversation with authors from the issue moderated by co-editors Ann Marguerite Tartsinis, co-author of Mondrian’s Dress: Yves Saint Laurent, Piet Mondrian, and Pop Art, and Sarah Scaturro, Chief Conservator at the Cleveland Museum of Art. There will also be giveaways, opportunity for questions, and so much more. We ask that you bring the beverage of your choice and wear your favourite designer to the event.

Visit to register!

[Image Description: a graphic with a dark blue background features white text that reads "State of the Field. Special Issue Launch. April 13, 2023 10:30am- 12:00pm EST. Virtually, at the link in bio." The Fashion Studies Logo is at the bottom of the graphic. A white graphic of books are at the top of the image."]

04/11/2023

Join the Centre for Fashion and Systemic Change for a panel event featuring the recipient’s of the CFSC Micro Grant Program!

Each panelist will be presenting their graduate research, which relates to fashion within the context of social and environmental justice. Join us Monday April 24th from 3:00- 5:00pm in the Catalyst at the Creative School to celebrate the work of these exceptional TMU graduate students. Refreshments will be served!

Visit the link in our bio to register for this free event!

[Image Description: The event poster Features images of the 4 panelists: Hassan Tariq, Deanna Armenti, Hayley Meadus and Julie Klein and event information provided in post text.]

04/06/2023

feature!
From Fashion Studies' 2022 Fashioning Resurgence Panel Series.

Abstract: While the mainstream fashion industry fumbles to balance its capitalist values and commitments to environmental protection, Indigenous creators in fashion have always taken a sustainable land-based approach to design and production. In the Fashioning Resurgence panel entitled Land-Based Fashion: A Leading Fashion Framework, Riley Kucheran mediates a discussion with Alethea Arnaquq-Baril, Bobby Itta, Tania Larsson, Amber Sandy on land being at the heart of Indigenous fashion. Each panelist offers different insights into land-based fashion from their unique perspectives as artists, designers, and filmmakers as they unpack what that means and how Indigenous designers can embody the values that come with being in relation to land. The panelists delve into topics about what land means to them, what materials they use from the land in their practices, the connection between food and fashion, land in urban settings, community-based entrepreneurship, and knowledge sharing via social media. The panel also discusses the difference between learning a land-based technique and learning the stories, culture, and values behind those techniques.

Image Description: A six panel grid features four panels with images of the lecture panelists and two panels featuring a floral design. Above and below the grid are dark purple panels. The top panel reads Land-Based Fashion: A Leading Framework. The bottom panel reads: Panelists: Tania Larsson, Alethea Arnaquq-Baril, Amber Sandy, and Bobby Itta, with Riley Kucheran.
.larsson

04/04/2023

Meet CFSC Micro Grant recipient Hayley Meadus!

Hayley (she/her) is in the final semester of her MA Fashion degree at Toronto Metropolitan University, where she has been studying the intersection of fashion theory, consumer behaviour, and body image. Her thesis project aims to challenge the assumption in fashion marketing of how “beauty” sells. Hayley uses body mapping as a unique art-based methodology to understand how using bodies varied in appearance and ability can be leveraged for clothing brands. Her interests stem from her own experience overcoming an eating disorder while surrounded by messages of beauty ideals in fashion.

[Image Description: A heading in bright pink letters reads: CFSC Micro Grant Recipient followed by the recipients name and program indicated in the post text. A portrait of Hayley is featured beside the text on a green background followed by the CFSC logo.]

03/31/2023

Calling all fashion enthusiasts! Check out the 2023 INTRO Runway & Exhibit Happening April 5th.

INTRO will be featuring the works of over 30 Toronto based fashion designers in the format of a live runway show, 20+ visual artists in a gallery style art exhibit and over 10 live performances from a variety of up-and-coming musicians and even dance crews in Toronto. INTRO wants to foster the development of a creative, outspoken and empowered community of fashion designers and other mixed media artist through the energy of this years event.

Visit .runway.exhibit for more information and to get tickets!

[Image Description: The INTRO event poster has blue graphics on a pale yellow background with information detailed in posts text.]

03/28/2023

Meet CFSC Micro Grant recipient Julie Klein!

Julie Klein is a designer and artist from Buffalo, NY, USA. She is a Fashion Institute of Technology and Buffalo State University graduate, pursuing her MA in fashion at Toronto Metropolitan University. Her research focuses on sustainability in fashion and how design can connect and educate on environmental and ethical issues. Her thesis project Fast Fashionization of the Fashion Industry: A Comparative Analysis of Fashion Brands to Fast Fashion Criteria and Analysis of their intentional Advertising and Brand Image Design aims to compare the production, output, and consumption between fashion brands and 'fast fashion' brands to examine the fast fashionization of the entire fashion industry.

[Image Description: A heading in bright pink letters reads: CFSC Micro Grant Recipient followed by the recipients name and program indicated in the post text. A portrait of Julie is featured beside the text on a green background followed by the CFSC logo.]

03/23/2023

We are pleased to announce one of the recipients of the CFSC Micro Grant! Hassan Tariq

Hassan’s thesis project explores q***ring Muslim masculinities through photography that challenge the western gender-binary/masculinity as displayed in Western fashion imagery. In the process, the Western aesthetic is also questioned and challenged with a ho******ic, q***r, POC gaze. Hassan’s creative project will give new lease to the notions of Muslim masculinity and place it within the current non-binary q***r zeitgeist, challenging and offering an alternative POC aesthetic that is not exoticized or fetishized by the white gaze.

We look forward to seeing the final outcome of Hassan's work!

[Image Description: A heading in bright pink letters reads: CFSC Micro Grant Recipient followed by the recipients name and program indicated in the post text. A portrait of Hassan is featured beside the text on a green background followed by the CFSC logo.]

03/20/2023

Fashion Zone Feature

Personal Wardrobe Stylist and Fashion Zone member Jaclyn Patterson founded Shopwise through her passion to build a better fashion industry. Shopwise makes it easy for you to vote with your dollar from 30+ pre-vetted fashion and accessory brands that prioritize both people and planet. They also host both virtual events and local pop-ups to create a community around sustainable fashion. Jaclyn has been styling for over 8 years and consciously helps people to discover more confidence, success, and fulfillment through their wardrobe.

[Image Description: A portrait of Jaclyn sitting at a desk surrounded by a white border and black text reading Fashion Zone Business Feature: Shopwise.]

03/17/2023

In case you missed it you can now watch the panel discussion from the Fashion Studies vol. 4 launch event! Hear from amazing scholars Morolake Dairo, Ev Delafose and Suzanne Rowland in discussion with Ben Barry and Alison Matthews David.
Visit the Fashion Studies website or our YouTube channel at the link in our bio!

[Image Description: A screen shot of five individuals on Zoom with a dark purple border featuring green lettering that reads: Fashion Studies Vol 4 Panel Discussion. Watch Now]

FashionStudies

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