RowanTree Workshop - making medieval

Dockenbarett - problem solving

The red wool I have is wonderful for making hats - so well fulled (felted) it's hard to see the original weave. It's actually pool table felt, so it won't fray or rip!

But I was concerned it wasn't thick enough to support the brim loops, so I did a test - a small mock-up of two brim loops sewn to a crown segment.

As expected, much too soft! I solved this problem on my previous Dockenbarett by sticking two layers of wool together with bondweb, so I tested that with the red wool - perfect.

With this resolved, I cut out the crown and the outer brim sections, but did not cut the loops apart. I sewed up the CB (centre back) seam - the wool was strong enough to sew with a butted seam, which will minimise the visible seam on the outside.

I cut a second brim (piecing to save fabric) and applied bondweb to these pieces, then ironed on the second layer, offsetting the joins to overlap the CB seam. (This would have been MUCH easier to do before sewing the CB seam!)

With everything set, I cut the loops out - now they look like a single thick piece of wool!

Dockenbarett - mockup

I cut my test pattern out of heavy felt and sewed it up. This process ensures I can test the pattern shape, the size and the construction sequence before I cut the final fabric.

The pattern needs a few minor adjustments, but the test version is looking good!

The synthetic felt has the right amount of stiffness to work with the pattern, but my red wool is a bit thinner and a bit less springy. Fine for the crown and for the base of the brim, but not for the loops, which might sag too much.

Time to do some materials testing...

Back to the Dockenbarett - patterning

Now the video is out on the world (and being watched! ) I'm back to working on the Dockenbarett.

First step is a quick mockup in paper to check basic proportions. I'm using the crown pattern from my Schlappe rather than my usual 4 piece pattern, to match the softer/flatter look I see in the painting.

For the brim, I'm starting with simple loops of paper, although it will end up a continuous strip. Both the woman and man have 8 sections on the brim, so that's what I'm using.

This gave me enough info to start making a test pattern. Next step is to finish this, then test it in felt.

My first video...!

I've been a bit distracted from making things the past week, becuase I was getting down to the last steps of launching my YouTube channel.

This has been a long term project, with a lot of research, planning, writing, procrastination and hard work! We did the original filming back in January, but we had a ot to learn, and many other priorities. But at last it is done - not perfect, but Good Enough!

Thanks to Graham Crawford, who started me on this journey during the Covid years, and to my husband who has done all the filming and editing.

My first video is a 45 minute look at all the layers for low/middle class clothing and how to turn some basic garments into 12 different looks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVSZweerc08

I hope some of you find this useful and/or interesting - if so, please do Like it so other people can find it!

Channel at:
https://www.youtube.com/

Getting dressed in the German Renaissance | Lower/middle class women Capsule wardrobe, German Renaissance style…'German Renaissance' co...

Dockenbarett -

This variation on the Barett was a common form, worn by men in most classes, and by women in the middle class.

Some versions were knitted and then heavily fulled (felted), like the Tudor caps, and then slashed right through the knitting! They were also made from felted wool, and were imported.

According to Textiler Hausrat, the trade books of Augsburg businessman Bartholomaeus Hartpronner contain numerous references from 1533 to 1551 of his trade in Baretten and Schlappen, in many styles and colors. They were imported transported from Italy in kegs, to be sold mainly in Nürnberg and Ulm. There are many references to Dockenbarett - clearly a popular style!

These images all come from Jörg Breu – Augsburger Autumn, c1531-1550.

I've made a Dockenbarett before, but the brim was much more upright, so my first step will be to play around with the pattern...

Call for Papers
Passementerie, Narrow Wares & Silkwomen
Submission Deadline: 15 January, 2027
Online Conference: Sunday 25 April 2027

The Medieval Dress and Textile Society will host its annual conference online via Zoom on Sunday 25 April 2027. We welcome proposals for 20- to 30-minute papers concerning all aspects of European textiles, clothing, dress and fashion accessories from the end of the Roman Empire in western Europe until the Early Modern Period (approximately 400 to 1600 C.E.).

Papers on this theme might address making, selling or using braids, tapes, woven bands, cords, laces, needle lace, bobbin lace, buttons, hairnets, fringe, tassels and other passementerie; importing, creating, modifying or distributing both the raw and finished materials used to construct such trimmings; or the lives of the women and men who plied trades related to these wares.

We encourage speakers of both academic and non-academic backgrounds to propose papers. Surprise us with the creativity and scope of your investigations. Submit your paper proposal via the form (https://tinyurl.com/MEDATS2027CFP) . Submission deadline: 15 January, 2027. If you have any questions, please contact [email protected]

Zöpfe - construction cont...

I've finished a few more of the stuffed ribbons - they are taking longer to sew than I expected!

For use, they are sewn together in sets of 3 at the tapered ends, then plaited in with the hair.
To test this I sewed my first set together and plaited them into the hair on a wig - not very carefully and the wig needs combing out, but it shows the general idea.

Here I braided a few turns before adding the Zöpfe, but I think they need to be used right from the first turn, to match the images in the portraits.

Now I need to finish the other set, and then I can start on the Barett!

Zöpfe - construction

With the size sorted, I machine-sewed the pointed ends and trimmed them, then turned them. I pressed and based a narrow hem on one side and machine basted (longest stitch) a guidline on the other side, to make sure my overlap seam was consistent. (I could have drawn this on with chalk but there is going to be a lot of handling...)

I used tweezers to stuff the tapered end of the wool inside the silk, then wrapped the silk around the wool and basted the overlap seam, compressing the wool slightly.

Then I slip-stitched the seam closed, and removed the basting. I've left the other end unfinished for now - I'll check the length once I can plait them together.

One down 5 to go...

Zöpfe - mockups

I'm starting with the Zöpfe (false braids), which were originally made by a professional Zöpfmacher (braid-maker) and offered for sale at market stalls.

The Nürnberg Haubuch lists the Zöpfmacher amongst the working brothers in the 17th century (the style persisted for a long time). You can see the brightly coloured braids, joined together in sets of three, ready to be braided into the real plaits.

I'm making a test run using scrap fabric and some wool rovings. General shape and approach works well, but they are much too thick! The ones in the paintings with people wearing them are about half this size, so another round of testing needed...

The wool is also too springy, so for the final version I'll use some softer wool rovings.

New project: Dockenbarett (slashed hat) and Zöpfe (braid extensions)

(I'm working on patterns for all the slat-sided bags, but in the meantime...)

Ailith won this hat prize and decided she wanted something fun! This image by Jörg Breu (Augsburger Autumn, c1531-1550) provides the inspiration for a red Dockenbarett worn with red Zöpfe. There are many other examples of women wearing the Barett and braids (sometimes with a hairband as well), and several others showing the coloured braid extensions.

The Dockenbarett was worn by both men and women in the middle class, and by the Landsknecht. I'll be making this from a heavy red wool.
'Zöpfe' refers to both real braids and false braids, worn by German girls and women. They were made of silk, stuffed with wool, and were cheap enough to be worn by working women, as well as the well off middle class.

I've been wanting to make some Zöpfe for a while, but since I don't have long enough hair for braids, I was delighted to have this excuse!