EMAP Emergency Preparedness Training

EMAP Emergency Preparedness Training prep·per (prĕp′ər) n.One who prepares for possible dangers such as natural disasters, societal I said let me do an analysis of the area.

I grew up with my grandmother who lived through the Great Depression telling of her trials and tribulations. She was a simple woman from Kentucky and taught me a lot about life. I guess you could say in the early 1980's I started being a prepper. Learning about off grid life and started out in the school of hard knocks. This grew with my real life training and education in military and Law Enforce

ment. In 2005 I decided it was time to move to a simpler way of life and as Horace Greeley said "Go West". I have been serving people since 2014 with Emergency Preparedness and Management. The training and education all started when I meet a well known rancher/personality in Ridgway Colorado. He had been told about my background and asked me "If SHTF how long do you think it would be before someone comes wanting one of my cattle?". I did a full SITREP of the area. Just as if you were invading a country of the people, places, resources and so much more. He the asked me to teach his people and that was the start. So from teak-wood fences to groups and personal training I went. The information we provide is based off real life experience in Law Enforcement, Military (97B), Multiple trainings to serve and protect YOU the public.

08/16/2026

I just bought one and also let my local preparedness group know about this. At this price they are sure to sell out.

07/02/2026

Popcorn tin Chip bag Faraday Can??

EMP AND FARADAY AWARENESS!There are many videos on YouTube about EMP protection only a few mention the principles and wh...
07/02/2026

EMP AND FARADAY AWARENESS!
There are many videos on YouTube about EMP protection only a few mention the principles and what matters.

An EMP is a brief surge of electromagnetic energy that can occur as a radiated electric or magnetic field or as a conducted electric current, depending on its source. Its short duration spreads the energy over a wide range of frequencies, making it capable of affecting multiple types of electronic systems simultaneously.

So what is a Faraday Cage?
A Faraday cage is just a conductive “shield” that keeps outside electric signals from getting inside by making the outside surface carry all the electrical charge.

What is Attenuation ?
Attenuation refers to the reduction in the strength (amplitude or energy) of an electromagnetic signal as it passes through a material, device, or system. In shielding and filtering contexts, it measures how much the unwanted interference is weakened before it reaches the sensitive equipment.

Next let's look at the physics of an EM Pulse.
EMPs typically spans from very low frequencies (VLF 3 kHz) to extremely high frequencies (EHF 50 dB attenuation is a standard baseline for Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) Shielding Mitigations because it safely reduces intense electromagnetic fields to harmless levels. This level of protection prevents destructive voltage spikes from damaging sensitive electronic components.

What 50 dB Means
Decibels (dB) measure logarithmic power ratios. A 50 dB attenuation means the electromagnetic field entering a shielded enclosure is reduced by a factor of 10⁵ (100,000 times) in power, or by roughly 316 times in voltage. In percentage terms, this blocks about 99.997% of the EMP energy.

How EMP Shielding Works
EMP shielding is about protecting electronics from these damaging voltage spikes. The most common method is the Faraday cage by enclosing sensitive devices in a conductive material (like metal) that redirects the EMP energy around the protected space instead of letting it enter.

When an EMP hits:
The conductive shield absorbs or reflects the electromagnetic wave.
Any excess energy is diverted away from the electronics, often to the ground.
Inside, the electronics remain unaffected because there’s no strong induced current.

Why it’s needed
Without shielding, the fast-changing electric field of an EMP induces dangerous currents in wires, circuit boards, and antennas, frying sensitive components. This is especially dangerous for the E1 pulse from a nuclear EMP, which can arrive in less than 25 nanoseconds; that's too fast for most surge protectors.

Simple Analogy
Think of EMP shielding like sun screen on steroids: the EMP energy “hits” the shield (sun screen), and instead of going through, it’s redirected or absorbed, so the electronics inside are safe.
In short: EMP shielding is a way to block or redirect electromagnetic energy before it can damage electronics, using conductive enclosures or fast-acting protection devices.

Why some cell phone are blocked and others are not
Cell phones use frequencies in these bands.
• 4G (LTE): Expanded to 700 MHz, 1700 MHz (AWS), 1800 MHz, 1900 MHz, 2300 MHz, 2500 MHz, and other mid-band frequencies to balance coverage and capacity.
• 5G: Uses sub-6 GHz bands (similar to 4G) and millimeter-wave (mm Wave) bands above 24 GHz, providing ultra-high-speed data but with shorter range.

Microwave Oven Fail
A microwave oven is engineered to keep one specific frequency 2.45 GHz inside the box, the resonant frequency cooks your leftovers. The mesh in the door has holes precisely calibrated to that wavelength (2.45GHz). The holes in that mesh are roughly 1 millimeter in diameter; microwaves used for cooking have a wavelength of about 120 millimeters. Since the waves are roughly 120 times larger than the holes, they can’t escape. The theory is the same mesh would block incoming EMP energy. Wrong it’s a single-frequency filter, not a broad-spectrum shield.

Cell phones operate across multiple bands from around 700 MHz up past 2.5 GHz. AM radio sits down in the 530-1700 kHz range; while an EMP hits across an enormous frequency spectrum simultaneously.

So how can I protect my stuff
Testing has proven the Dri-Shield moisture barrier bag 3400 series bags have true EMI Attenuation of 45 dB when tested 1 to 10 GHz. They are also puncture resistance to 20 lbs

These bags were developed by 3m who sold off their static bag line to Desco Industries. Desco now sells them under its SCS (Static Control Solutions) division.

Your bag must be at least IEEE 299 2006 certified to be effective. IEEE 299-2006 is a standard for measuring the effectiveness of electromagnetic shielding enclosures across a wide frequency range.

The standard defines tests to measure shielding effectiveness over a frequency range from 9 kHz to 18 GHz, with possible extensions from 5 Hz up to 100 GHz.

The other option is MIL-STD-188-125. This standard addresses minimum testing requirements for demonstrating that prescribed performance criteria have been achieved and for verifying that the installed H**P protection subsystem provides the operationally required hardness for the completed facility.

Folks we do what we do not to profit but to help others not be a burden in an emergency. The next few videos we are work...
06/23/2026

Folks we do what we do not to profit but to help others not be a burden in an emergency. The next few videos we are working on will debunk common Faraday myths.

We base all information on real world test and data from recognized experts on CMEs, EMPs, and solar storm impacts on critical infrastructure. We also use data on electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) and electromagnetic interference (EMI) testing by global companies like 3M and SCS (Static Control Solutions). These companies actually do the testing and get their products IEEE 299 2006 certified to be effective. IEEE 299-2006 is a standard for measuring the effectiveness of electromagnetic shielding enclosures across a wide frequency range.

The standard defines tests to measure shielding effectiveness over a frequency range from 9 kHz to 18 GHz, with possible extensions from 5 Hz up to 100 GHz.

Why is this important
Most people who talk on the internet and YouTube talk a lot of horse hockey. Sure they get the clicks and sound good; but the fail.

Actual testing has shown that an EMP can range in frequencies from just a few kHz to 3 GHz; while the microwave frequencies can go up to tens of GHz. That is why you need certified protection not the aluminum foil you have in the kitchen. That stuff that is easy to rip or get a little pinhole in. While commercial Aluminum foil is thicker I still have my doubts; but as a secondary barrier it "MIGHT" be okay.

YouTubers get clicks but in an EMP YOU only get one chance at getting it right!

06/20/2026

We test the myth that a Mylar bag will provide EMP protection and act as a Faraday Cage. For more detailed information check out our page for the Geek data.

Faraday Myths BustedToday we posted a short video on the Mylar bag as a Faraday Bag on youtube.https://youtu.be/_9qzy3cp...
06/20/2026

Faraday Myths Busted
Today we posted a short video on the Mylar bag as a Faraday Bag on youtube.
https://youtu.be/_9qzy3cp9uo
Most standard Mylar bags are not inherently conductive. Most are made from biaxially oriented polyethylene terephthalate (BoPET) polyester film, which is an excellent electrical insulator. HOWEVER, many Mylar bags are metallized meaning they have a thin layer of aluminum vapor-deposited or laminated onto the polyester surface.

This aluminum layer is what gives Mylar bags their shiny appearance and their ability to block light, oxygen, and moisture. While the aluminum layer is conductive, it is very thin and not continuous in all areas, so the bag as a whole does not act as a continuous Faraday cage.

Your bag must be at least IEEEE 299 2006 certified to be effective. IEEE 299-2006 is a standard for measuring the effectiveness of electromagnetic shielding enclosures across a wide frequency range.

We have seen many so called Mil-spec bags that are not! Buyer be ware. We recommend The Dri-Shield 3400 Series Moisture Barrier Bag (formally a 3M product)
https://staticcontrol.descoindustries.com/SCSCatalog/ESD-Bags/Moisture-Barrier-Bags/Foil-High-Barrier/Dri-Shield-3400-Series/

06/10/2026

I want to address the importance of being part of a group and getting one started.

Over the years, I’ve come to appreciate just how crucial it is to be prepared for emergencies, whether they’re natural disasters or unexpected events. You never know when a storm might hit or if you could find yourself in a situation where help isn’t immediately available. When a community knows how to respond, the impact of these situations can be significantly lessened.

Think about it; when disaster strikes, how comforting would it be to know that your neighbors are trained and ready to lend a hand? Having a group of people who understand the basics of emergency response can create a sense of safety and unity in the neighborhood.

Preparedness isn’t just an individual concern; it’s a collective responsibility. It fosters stronger relationships and builds trust, making it easier to face tough times together. I truly believe that every neighborhood should have a preparedness group to get everyone on the same page.

If you want more information on starting a group message us.

06/06/2026

Part Four:
Young Preppers need old school preppers

Water without Pumps: How They Got It and Made It Safe
Most Americans turn on a tap and water appears. Our grandparents got water from wells, springs, rainwater cisterns, and creeks. Every single drop required physical effort to acquire, and most of it required some kind of treatment before it was safe to drink.

The most common rural water source in the 1930s was the dug well. Not the drilled wells we have today. Hand-dug wells, often by the homeowner or with neighborhood help, that ran 15 to 40 feet deep down to the water table. The water came up in a bucket on a rope, hauled hand-over-hand. Later, hand pumps were installed to make the work easier. Either way, you went outside, in any weather, multiple times a day, to bring water inside.

Rainwater Cistern Most Preppers Have Never Considered:
In areas without good well access, families relied on rainwater catchment. Not a barrel under a downspout. A real cistern. Often a concrete-lined underground tank holding several thousand gallons, fed by guttering from the roof of the house and outbuildings. The cistern provided water for everything but drinking. For drinking, you usually went to a spring or well, since cistern water carried more contamination risk.

I lived in an old farm house in the late 1970's that had cistern in the basement. It was fed by the roof and at one time was pumped into the kitchen by a hand pump mounted on the sink. That cistern had been changed over to provide water for laundry use only but it was there. It was filled by rain alone. And gravity feed to the washer's cold, no electricity ever touched it.

I have built my own version using three IBC totes, about 300 gallons each, fed by my roofs. Giving me about a use able capacity around 800 gallons. The cost was under $150 for the totes and another $50 in miscellaneous materials. It’s not a permanent solution like original cisterns, but the principle is identical. Rain falls. You catch it. You use it. The grid is irrelevant.

Making Water Safe Without a Filter:
Here’s where modern preppers spend a fortune that our grandparents didn’t have. The shelves are full of water filter systems running $300 to $400 and up. They’re great. I have one. But our grandparents made water safe with three things. Boiling. Settling. Slow sand filtration.

Boiling at a rolling boil for one minute kills essentially every pathogen that will hurt you. Five minutes if you’re paranoid. It doesn’t remove chemicals, but in a pre-industrial rural setting, chemical contamination wasn’t the main risk. Biological contamination was.

Settling is the simplest trick. Cloudy water sits in a container for several hours. The sediment falls to the bottom. You pour the clear water off the top. Now you have water clear enough to boil efficiently.

Slow sand filtration is the surprise. Layered sand and gravel in a bucket, water poured in the top, clean water out the bottom, biological film on the surface doing the heavy lifting. This was the standard municipal treatment method before chlorination. It still works. It takes no electricity. It requires no filters to replace. Once the biological layer establishes itself, it gets better with use, not worse.

I’m saying solely depending on a filter that requires a replacement cartridge is a strategy with a clock on it. I am using a ITEHIL RO system and have two years of filters on hand. With the knowledge of how to build a sand filter from scratch is a skill with no clock.

06/02/2026

Part Three:
Young Preppers need old school preppers

The Wood Stove:
The Most Important Appliance Nobody Owns
That would be the wood-burning cook stove; not a wood stove! That single appliance did the work of about six modern ones, with no electricity, no gas, and the fuel you could literally pick up off the ground.

Think about what a wood cook stove actually does. It cooks your food. It boils your water. It heats your house. It bakes your bread. It dries your laundry hanging nearby. It heats the iron you use to press clothes. It warms the bricks you put in your bed at night. It runs all day, every day, in winter. It runs as needed in summer.

My great grandparents had a cast iron range that they used in their home in Kentucky. That same stove served them for decades and through lots of hard times. My grandmother told me her mother could judge oven temperature just by sticking her hand inside for three seconds.

The Modern Equivalent
For most modern preppers the contemporary version of “backup cooking” is usually a butane or propane camp stove and a few cylinders. Some will suggest a small wood stove rated for outdoor use only. These will work for a few days; however they don’t replace the central heating function. They don’t bake bread and they won’t last for decades. The other problem they fail to cover is the fuel is finite.

Real cast iron wood cook stove are still available, both new and salvaged. New ones run anywhere from $3,000 to $7,000 for a good one. Salvaged restored stoves can be had for less. Installation should be done by a certified company to insure proper chimney and clearances and code compliance. If you do this and get a wood cook stove it solves multiple problems permanently.

I’m not saying run out and buy one tomorrow. I’m saying to think about whether your current setup has any path to cooking and heating that doesn’t depend on the grid or on stored fuel that will eventually run out. Wood, if you have access to any wooded land or a community connection is renewable in real time. Propane is not.

The Skill That Comes With the Stove
After several seasons of regular use you will be able to keep the firebox even, judge the oven by feel, and run multiple pots on different parts of the cooktop at different temperatures by sliding them around. The hotter the burner over the firebox, the slower simmer on the far side. It becomes second nature. It takes practice, not just weekend practice; but real practice. Fires going out burning food and gathering wood all take learning how to or how to do it right.

This is the broader lesson. Every piece of low-tech equipment our grandparents used required a related skill that took years to develop. The hand pump required knowing how to prime it and seal the leathers. The kerosene lamp required trimming wicks and cleaning chimneys. The skills came packaged with the tool. Modern preppers skip the skills and just buy the tool. That doesn’t work.

Wood stove bonus round
Most 1930s rural homes had a single heat source. A wood stove in the kitchen, maybe a parlor stove in the front room. The bedrooms upstairs were unheated, or heated only by rising warm air through a grate in the floor. People wore more clothes inside. They piled wool blankets on the beds. They warmed the bed with a hot brick or a heated stone wrapped in flannel before climbing in.

The closed-door strategy was the key to life. You heated the room you were in. Doors stayed shut between rooms. The kitchen stayed warm because the cook stove ran all day. Everyone gravitated to that room in winter. Bedrooms were for sleeping under heavy blankets. That was the entire heating plan.

Today modern preppers over look this this. They try to figure out how to heat the entire house if the grid goes down. That’s the wrong. What needs to be asked is, how do I keep my family warm in one room, indefinitely, with renewable fuel? That answer is much simpler. A small wood stove (vented), a stack of seasoned firewood, warm blankets, and the discipline to shut doors.

Emergency management programs say to have plastic to close off areas not used to conserve heat. This is the same thing our ancestors did. My grand mother hung a blanket over her add on room in the winter and placed heavy rugs on the bottom to keep the cold out.

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Montrose, CO

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