Textile

Dornier-air-jet-type-a1-e

أعلنت شركة دورنيير (Dornier) الألمانية المصنّعة لآلات النسيج عن آلتها الجديدة air-jet weaving machine A1
الآلة الجديدة تعمل بالدفع الهوائي (air-jet) ومجهّزة بنظام تحكم إلكتروني جديد بالكامل.

بحسب الشركة فإن هذه الآلة هي خيار جيّد من الناحية الإقتصادية ومناسبة لإنتاج الأقمشة التقنية والمفروشات المنزلية والأقمشة العادية المستخدمة للملابس لما تقدّمه من دقّة وخيارات متعدّدة, سواءً إذا كانت تعمل بنظام الكامات مع جهاز جاكار مزوّد بـ 12000 خطّاف (Hook), أو كانت تعمل بنظام الدوبي (Dobby) وعدد درآت (head frame) يصل إلى 16 درأة, أو تعمل بنظام Dornier EasyLeno.
يتراوح عرض الآلة بين 150 وحتى 540 سم.

الآلة تتضمّن عدّة مكوّنات حاصلة على براءات اختراع, منها Dornier PIC system و Dornier ServoControl-2 وأيضاً Dornier PneumaTucker وهذه المكوّنات تضمن تشغيل آمن ولامثيل له في آلات الدفع الهوائي.


بحسب الشركة يمكن استخدام آلة A1 لإنتاج طيف واسع من المنتجات كالأقمشة التقنيّة مثل أقمشة الحرير المستخدمة في صناعة الأشرعة (spinnaker), وأقمشة الوسائد الهوائية, والمفروشات المستخدمة في مقاعد السيارات والطائرات.
كذلك أقمشة الملابس الصوفيّة, وأقمشة الداماسك المصنّعة من القطن المصري.
وأيضاً أقمشة الملابس الرياضية والمفروشات المنزلية كالستائر وأغطية الطاولات

Air Jet Loom:
The air jet weaving machine combines high perf ormance with low manuf acturing requirements. It has an
extremely high insertion rate. Due to its exceptional perf ormance, air jet machines are used primarily f or the
economical production of standard f abrics, covering a wide range of styles. Meanwhile, more and more niches
and special f abric segments are covered; heavy cotton f abrics such as denim, terry f abrics, glass f abrics, etc.
Main Parts of Air Jet Loom for Weft
Insertion:
1) TENSIONER: Additive disk type
tensioner is used f or wef t insertion which
maintain proper tension in the wef t yarn.
2) WEFT BREAK SENSOR: It is an
electric sensor which detect any wef t
break in the region between wef t package
and accumulator and automatically stop
the loom in case any wef t break.
3) ACCUMULATOR: It is adevice which
f itted between wef t package and main
nozzle that unwinds a predetermined
length of wef t f rom the package and
store it in the f orm of no. of coils on a cylindrical drum. This yarn then f ed in to insertion device.
4) STOPPER: It is an electronically controlled electromagnetic device integrated along with the accumulator. Its
f unction in releasing the yarn at starts of insertion and stop it at the end of insertion.
5) BALLOON BREAKER: It is f itted just af ter accumulator, its f unction is to separate the balloon f ormation.
So as to reduce as ballooning tension as well as minimize the tension f luctuation. It is generally used f or
coarser yarn.
6) FIXED MAIN NOZZLE: Its f unction is to f orm the air jet f rom compressed air with the required velocity and
acceleration characteristics and project it in a proper direction in to air guide channel.
7) RELAY NOZZLE OR SUB NOZZLE: Fitted in series along the sley. It creates an additional air f low in the
direction of air jet. So as to comensate the loss of air velocity.
8) PROFILE REED: Here the reed is prof iled. So as to f orm a guide channel which guide the air jet as well as
wef t during insertion.
9) WEFT CUTTER: It is cam operated device f itted in the region between the moveable main nozzle and the
reed at picking side. Its f unction is to gripping and cutting the wef t af ter every pick at around beat-up.
10) AIR GUIDE CHANNEL: It is f ormed on the reed. Its f unction is guiding and conf ining the f ree expansion of
the air jet in order to maintain the velocity over larger distance as possible.
11) WEFT DETECTOR: It is an optical device f itted at the end of reed at the receiving side. Its f unction is to
check the arrival of wef t at the receiving side .In case of late arrival or miss pick, then it sense and
automatically stopped the loom.
12) STRETCH NOZZLE: Located just beside the wef t detector .It supplement the ef f ect of enhanced
stretching action on the wef t by the closely spaced relay nozzle at the end of insert ion. So as to prevent the
chance of wef t recoiling due to action of stopper.
13) SELVEDGE CUTTER: Located at the receiving side. It is an electronically operated mechanical device which
cut the wef t yarn extending between f abric and auxiliary selvedge .So as to separate the auxiliary selvedge
which is passed out as a waste.

الوشاح الحريري المطرز

=> Basic Concept of Weft Knitted Structures:

=> About weft knitted structures:
There are many types of knitted fabrics , which produced by different types knitted structure .According to the arrangement of loops in their course and wales , there are four basic groups of knitted structure . All types of knitted fabrics are derived from those basic structure.

=> Weft Knitted Structures:
=> Name of the knitted structures:
Those basic / primary structures are...........
1. Plain / Single knit structure.
2. Rib structure.
3. Purl knit structure.
4. Interlock structure.


=> How can we identify the plain knit structure fabrics:
Plain knit structure is the simplest and most basic structure. It's also called single knit structure . It's produced by the needles of one set of needle with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction. We can identify the plain knit structure fabrics as following properties........
1. The fabric is unbalanced and different appearance on face and back side . V shapes on face and Arcs on back .
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate ( 10-20%). and widthwise extensibility is high ( 30-50%) .
3. The fabric extensibility area is moderate to high.
4. The fabric is thicker and warmer than plainwoven made from same yarn.
5. The plain knit structure can be easily unravelled from the edge which was knitted last .Unroving either end .
6. The fabric has tendency to curl. Notation of plain knit structure:
* * * *
* * * *
* * * *
* * * *
Face loop
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
Back loop


=> End Uses:
Plain knit structures are used for basic T-shirt(men's and ladies) , Under garments , men's vest , ladies hosiery ,fully fashioned knit wear etc.



=> How can we identify Rib structures fabrics:
Rib is the second family of knit structures . It's also called double - knit . It's requires twosets of needles operating in between each other so that wales of face stitches and walesof back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric . We can identify the Rib structure fabrics as following properties------
1. Same appearance in both sides of rib fabric.Like face of plain .
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate and widthwise extensibility is very high (50-100%).
3. The fabric extensibility area is high.
4. The fabric is much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Rib structures can be unravelled from the edge knitted last . Unroving only form end knitted last .
6. No tendency to curl . Notation of rib structures:
* 0 * 0
* 0 * 0
* 0 * 0
1*1 Rib structure

=> End Uses:
Rib structures are uses for--Socks , cuffs , waistbands , collars , men's outerwear , knitwear , under wear etc.


=> How can we identify purl knit structures fabric:
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures . As with rib structures , it's requires the participation of both needle beds for the production of the loops. We can identify the Purl structures fabric as followingproperties....
1. Same appearance on both sides . Like back of plain .
2. Lengthwise extensibility is very high and widthwise extensibility is high.
3. The fabric extensibility area is very high.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving either end.
6. No tendency to curl. Notation of purl knit structure:
0 0 0
* * *
0 0 0
1*1 purl knit


=> End Uses:
Purl structures are uses for---Children's clothing , knitwear , thick and heavy outerwear etc.

=> How can we identify the interlock structures fabric:
Interlock is another 1*1 rib variant structure which is produced on specially designed machines . Those machines possess two sets of needles ( short and long needles) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders . Wecan identify the interlock structure fabric as following properties-----
1. Same appearance on both sides , like face of plain.
2. Lengthwise extensibility is moderate and widthwise extensibility is moderate.
3. Extensibility area is moderate.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving only from end knitted last.
6. No tendency to curl. Notation of interlock structure:
* 0 * 0
0 * 0 *
Interlock structure

=> End Uses:
Interlock structures are use for-- Underwear ,shirts , suits , trouser suits , sportswear , dresses etc.

=> Conclusion:
Mainly we can identify any types of knitted fabric by appearance. Here I only given some basic knowledge about weft knit structure , by which we can generally identify different types of weft knitted fabric.

=> Reference:
1. Understanding textile for a merchandiser by Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal.
2. Some of My practical knowledge.
3. Textile Learner



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CLOTHES MOTHS

Clothes moths are well-known as pests of stored woolens, but they will eat a wide range of other fibers including hair, fur, silk, felt and feathers. Serious infestations of clothes moths can develop undetected in a home, causing significant damage to clothing, bedding, floor coverings and other articles

Identification and Habits

Clothes moths are small (about 1/2-inch), buff-colored moths. Two different species are common in Kentucky, the webbing clothes Clothes moth adult and larvamoth and the casemaking clothes moth. The webbing clothes moth is uniformly buff-colored, whereas the casemaking clothes moth is similar in appearance but has indistinct dark specks on the wings.

Clothes moths are seldom seen because they avoid light. They prefer dark, undisturbed areas such as closets, basements and attics, and tend to live in corners or in folds of fabric. If you do see tiny moths flying about in the kitchen and other open areas, they are probably grain moths originating from some infested cereal, flour or stored food item. Clothes moth adults do not feed so they cause no injury to fabrics. However, the adults produce eggs which hatch into the fabric-eating larvae .

The larval stage of clothes moths are creamy-white caterpillars up to 1/2-inch long. Webbing clothes moth larvae spin silken feeding tunnels or patches of webbing as they move about on the surface of fabrics. The casemaking clothes moth encloses itself in a portable case that it drags about wherever it goes.

Damage to articles may consist of irregular surface feeding or holes eaten completely through the fabric. Oftentimes, the larvae leave the material they developed on and can be seen crawling slowly over walls or ceilings. The casemaking clothes moth, in particular, may travel considerable distances from the infested article to spin its cocoon in a protected crack, or along the juncture of a wall and ceiling.

As mentioned earlier, clothes moths feed on a variety of animal-based materials, including wool, fur, silk, feathers and leather. Items commonly infested include wool sweaters, coats, blankets, carpets, decorative items, down pillows and comforters, toys and animal trophies. Synthetic fabrics such as polyester and rayon are rarely attacked unless blended with wool, or if they are heavily soiled with food stains or body oils. The larvae prefer to feed in dark, undisturbed areas such as closets, attics, and within boxes where woolens and furs are stored for long periods.
Clothing and blankets in constant use are seldom damaged by clothes moths, nor are rugs that get a normal amount of traffic or are routinely vacuumed. Edges of carpeting next to walls or underneath furniture are often attacked.

Clothes moths may also be found infesting upholstered furniture (both inside and out), and in air ducts where the larvae may be feeding on lint, shed pet hair and other bits of debris. Infestations may also originate from bird or animal nests, or an animal carcass present in an attic, chimney or wall void.

Control

The best way to avoid problems with clothes moths is through prevention. Woolens and other susceptible fabrics should be dry cleaned or laundered before being stored for long periods. Cleaning kills any eggs or larvae that may be present and also removes perspiration odors that are attractive to the pests.

Articles to be stored should then be packed in tight-fitting containers with moth balls or flakes containing paradichlorobenzene (PDB) or napthalene. Neither PDB or napthalene will repel clothes moths or prevent them from laying eggs -- the vapors from these materials are lethal to clothes moths, but only when maintained at sufficient concentrations. In order to achieve these levels, the vapors must be tightly confined with the items you wish to protect. Effective concentrations can best be achieved by first sealing susceptible items (with the manufacturers' recommended dosage of moth crystals) in large plastic bags, and then storing the bagged articles in tight-fitting trunks, boxes or chests. Contrary to popular belief, cedar closets or chests are seldom effective by themselves, because the seal is insufficient to maintain a lethal or repellent concentration of the volatile oil of cedar.

Standard household insecticides should not be used to treat clothing; however, mothproofing solutions may be applied to susceptible clothing by professional dry cleaners. Valuable garments such as furs can also be protected from clothes moths by storing them in cold vaults (a service offered by some furriers and department stores).

Controlling existing infestations of clothes moths requires patience and a thorough inspection to locate all potential sources of infestation. The source may be an old woolen scarf in the back of a closet, a fur hat in a box, or a remnant of wool carpeting up in the attic. Even piano or organ felts may be the source. Infested items should be thrown out, laundered or dry cleaned.

Vacuuming effectively removes larvae which are already present as well as hair and lint which could support future infestations. Be sure to vacuum the edges of carpets, along baseboards, underneath furniture, inside closets and other "quiet" areas where clothes moths prefer to feed.

Insecticide applications directed into infested areas are often useful as a supplement to good housekeeping. Products containing active ingredients such as pyrethrum, allethrin, chlorpyrifos and permethrin are effective. Sprays may be applied to carpets (especially along and beneath the edge adjacent to the baseboard), underneath furniture and other likely areas of infestation where prolonged contact with humans is unlikely. Clothing and bedding should not be sprayed with household insecticides and should be removed before treatment.

Elimination of widespread, serious infestations of clothes moths may require the services of a professional pest control operator.

CAUTION! Pesticide recommendations in this publication are registered for use in Kentucky, USA ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in your state or country. Please check with your local county agent or regulatory official before using any pesticide mentioned in this publication.

Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!

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