Nihkoye fashion school

It's never too late to say happy new year, welcome to 2023!!
I know it's been a while since I've been in touch, and for that, I apologize. Life has been busy, and I realize I haven't been as present as I should have been.

Well, I'm back, and expect great content from us. I will like to continue to post new content on our page and our other social media channels. We'd love to know what you think when you see our content. Do you have any thoughts, comments, or suggestions about the topics we cover or the way we present the information?

We value your feedback and would appreciate it if you could take a few minutes to share your thoughts with us. You can leave a comment below or reach out to us on social media. We are sorry for neglecting you, and we hope to connect with you more in the future. Thanks for your understanding and support.
Danikkyfashions

THE FRONT BODICE DARTS
Darts are essential for good fit. The front darts helps the fit and the overall appearance of your bodice.
When darts are not properly or accurately taken you will see diagonal lines radiating from the apex of the bust.
The upper part of the women bodice has both convex and concave curves that curves out around the b***s and curve in around the ribcage but tapers in around the waist, it is the darts that helps the cloth to flatter well on the body.
Your bodice can have single dart it means the dart excess is taken at one point, and its voluminous but when you want a better fit 2 or more darts is needed . With 2-darts, fits is improved by releasing ease around the bust mound from two dart points rather than from a single point.
For working bodice, your bodice can have the 2 darts in this combination
1. Shoulder dart and waist dart Check the pictures attached.
2. Waist dart and side dart.(bust dart)
The value of the darts are dependent on
A. The bust measurement
B. The pattern cup size
C. The waist measurement.
Note
There are book with fixed measurement of the shoulder darts, it works perfectly if your cup is Bcup but if you are large busted you may have to convert to large cup for a better fit hence a bigger dart value.
Yours Truly
Thecurvytailor

series
THE BACK BODICE SHOULDER DART
Do you know that if the back shoulder dart is missing in your back bodice block pattern, it is very likely that there will be gaping at either back neckline or at the armhole ( it will become so obvious in sleeveless garments) so those wrinkles, gaping at the neckline and or at the armhole is as a result of you not adding shoulder dart to your pattern.
Some of the fitting problems ( rounded shoulder, protruding shoulder blade) at the back of your bodice can be eliminated by using your shoulder dart.
1.The shoulder dart is always used to fit the pattern correctly to the contour of the body around the shoulder /and the backline
2. It can even be manipulated and be used to establish a well fitted yoke style sometimes found at the back of the shirt.
3. It's can also be stitched especially when the volume of the dart is much.

On your next pattern drafting exercise remember the back shoulder dart.
I remain yours truly

Thecurvytailor

Today on our Fitting series for curvy women,we will be talking about
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT.
What is full bust adjustment
FBA simply means an adjustment that allows you to add or increase the bust area without altering the fit around the armhole and at the shoulder.
It's going to be a long read, but I bet it with you it will be of great help.
Whether its a self drafted Pattern or a ready-made Pattern, your pattern is mostly drafted as B-cup in respective of the method used,
Most curvy women have :
1. Large bust
2. Uses more than B-cup in-fact from statistics, most curvy women uses larger cup like D, DD,DDD and as high G cup
Note this is not your bra cup size.....

So when do you need a FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
A full bust adjustment(FBA) is needed when your bust measurement is greatly more than the high bust. The difference between the High bust and full bust measurement determines your cup size.
Below is the table of difference and the corresponding cup size.
Difference. Cup size
0-1 inch (0- 2.5cm). A cup
1-2 inches( 2.5-5cm). B cup
2-3 inches (5-7.5cm). C cup
3-4 inches (7.5- 10cm). D cup
4-5 inches (10-12.5cm). DD/E cup
5-6 inches (12.5-15cm). DDD/F cup
6-7 inches (15-17.5cm). DDDD/G cup
7-8inches (17.5-20cm). GG/H cup.

Now you can calculate yours and know whether you need a full bust adjustment.
I remain yours truly
Thecurvytailor

Measuring the body you want to sew for is essential in achieving the best fit.
Steps to achieving a good measurements
1. Use sturdy taperule
2. Double check the taperule to be sure it doesn't have error, I do this by checking with my meter rule that I normally use for drafting patterns
3. Ensure the person you want to measure is wearing proper undergarment
4. Ensure the person is not wearing bulky clothes.
5. Check the picture below for guide on what to measure and how to measure.
Yours truly
The curvytailor

SWAY BACK ADJUSTMENT
This is one of the most common fitting problems for curvy women.
A normal back for women just bends/ curves a little (redline) but when you have sway back, the back spine curves slot more in like my picture above.
The effect is that
1. The back to nape measurements will be shorter than usual
2. But the length of side seam at the back remains unchanged so when you wear your cloths you have a lot of horizontal wrinkles across the back waist line.
Do you also have this problems? Don't worry, the solution is simple.

You only need to shorten the back at the center back line of the pattern.

Check the next post for a step by step guide on how to do this.

Yours truly
The curvy tailor.

First of our fitting series for curvy women starts today 💃💃💃💃.