26/04/2026
This is Migingo Island.
A tiny rock in the middle of Lake Victoria half the size of football pitch. Within this small space, hundreds of people live side by side, making it one of the most densely populated places on Earth. From a distance, it almost looks unreal, a cluster of iron sheet structures tightly packed together, surrounded by endless water.
The waters surrounding Migingo are rich in Nile perch, one of East Africa’s most valuable fish, exported to markets around the world. This has turned the island into a powerful economic hub, attracting fishermen in search of income and survival. Every day, boats leave before sunrise and return with catches that sustain not just families, but an entire cross-border economy.
Migingo was not always like this. It is believed that Kenyan fishermen Dalmas Tembo and George Kibebe settled here in the early 1990s, when the island was still wild, covered in vegetation and inhabited by birds and snakes. Years later, Joseph Nsubuga claimed he arrived to find it nearly empty, a sign that even its beginnings are surrounded by differing accounts.
Today, people from Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania live and work here, drawn by the same opportunity. Despite its size, the island functions like a small town. It has bars, small restaurants, hair salons, pharmacies, guest houses and even a small casino. Life here is active and continuous, driven by the rhythm of fishing.
But behind this activity lies a difficult reality. Migingo has no running water and no proper sewage system. Space is extremely limited and sanitation is a daily challenge. Most residents rely on solar energy, adapting to the constraints of living in such a confined and remote environment.
Just 200 metres away from Migingo Island lies Usingo Island. It is larger, quieter and almost uninhabited. While Migingo struggles with overcrowding, Usingo remains largely untouched, with local beliefs about snakes and spirits discouraging settlement.
