22/05/2026
The last few days have flown by — and what a contrast. If only the Med was like this all the time.
We had a stunning two-sail north-westerly reaching passage from Kefalonia and Lefkada across to Nidri. It was the perfect sail to introduce Jennifer to Osprey. If I’d been able to put the spinnaker up, it would have been incredible. One day…
The wind died as we arrived under the shelter of Lefkada, so we motored the final hour into Nidri. Anchoring proved a little challenging in the crowded bay and we more or less ended up in the channel. Still, it turned into a peaceful night.
The next morning we met Takis from Yacht Shelter, who had made a new mattress for my berth. Using the dinghy, we transferred the mattress onboard before heading off for provisions.
From there we motored seven miles to Meganisi for another beautiful anchorage. At night the wind completely disappeared, leaving the bay utterly still despite several nearby boats.
From Meganisi we decided to take advantage of a strong wind day and sail back to Kefalonia. We didn’t start with a fixed destination — days begin late in the Med and I wasn’t yet sure whether we’d go offshore around Kefalonia or take the inshore route. We had around 70 miles ahead of us.
We motored in glassy calm down to the bottom of Lefkada before finally finding the wind. The choice then became whether to motor across the bay into a 15-knot headwind to reach the west coast of Kefalonia and sail south to Agia Pelagia, or take the longer eastern route with a far better sailing angle, flatter seas, but the risk of katabatic winds.
Would there even be wind on the west coast, or would we end up motoring 20 miles into a headwind for nothing? Or take the east coast, enjoy the stronger wind, and later find ourselves motoring into 25 knots? Comfortable anchorages are few and far between, and not always where you need them.
In the end I decided to “love the one you’re with” and take the sail while we had it.
We eased off the sheets and settled into a perfect southbound sail. 8 and 9knots charging along. As we came under Kefalonia the wind steadily increased to 22–25 knots, so we put one reef in, then two. It was the first proper wind Osprey had seen this season, so stretching everything back into place and finding all the reefing marks again took a little time.
The katabatic effect kept building and the idea of motoring around the next corner lost its appeal, so I opted to head into the tiny harbour at Poros.
The entrance was extremely choppy, and Jennifer had her work cut out fitting fenders and preparing lines in a 1.5m swell while I circled outside waiting for everything to be ready.
I’d called the harbour master ahead of arrival and he was waiting with a side-tie berth on the jetty. I simply slid alongside and the wind blew us gently on. It probably looked easy from shore, but in the shallow water and narrow entrance it was properly tense. The bow thruster was working overtime. The fenders were squashed.
Then the charter boats began arriving.
I have to say, I was genuinely impressed with how the harbour master directed some very novice sailors into their berths and raft-ups without anyone losing their temper. At one point we were both coaching a skipper on how to reverse under full power into his berth. The poor guy looked terrified, but he listened carefully, stayed calm, and made it in successfully.
It’s not often you can rely on a marinero like that.
He charged me €50 for a berth with no water or electricity — fairly extortionate — but he also refused to raft anyone alongside Osprey because, as he put it, “she’s too nice a boat.” I appreciated that.
The following morning we went for a walk and discovered an incredible cave restaurant where we had to stop for a drink overlooking the now glassy-calm sea that the day before had been a boiling cauldron.
Our final day was a long motor to Agia Pelagia Marina. Better than bashing into a headwind, we made easy progress around the coast.
I really must stop assuming that once you reach the harbour, the parking bit will be easy…
The entrance is extremely shallow and rocky, so I was slowly motoring in tight circles outside while Jennifer prepared the lines and fenders. We came into what should have been a straightforward berth with no wind and just 0.9m under the keel.
We got one stern line ashore with help from the harbour master. I’d instructed Jennifer to throw the second stern line to a helpful neighbour while I kept the boat straight using the engine and bow thruster — something I’ve done hundreds of times in many harbours.
The harbour master had other ideas.
He picked up one of the four slime lines while I still wasn’t properly straight. It went under the boat and immediately wrapped itself around both the keel and the prop. I quickly reversed the prop and managed to free it, but just then a local katabatic gust arrived and suddenly we were sideways in the berth.
I used the bow thruster to bring us back around and asked the harbour master to jump onboard and help with the bow line.
Jennifer is tiny and there was no way she could physically pull Osprey forward alone. She took the now very tight slime line forward while they both hauled together — and then somehow it wrapped itself into the bow thruster as well.
At this point I could actually see the prop wash dragging all four slime lines up off the bottom as it stirred the silt beneath us.
Thankfully we eventually freed everything, although we still had one wrapped around the keel. The lines were brand new — bright pearly white only days ago — but now decorated with a rather smart royal blue patina from Osprey’s antifoul.
Once tied up I checked both the prop and bow thruster, there’s now even more reason to find a calm bay soon and get the dive gear out for a proper inspection. I just need the water to warm up a bit more.
We’ll be in the marina for a few days while I fly back to the UK for a family event. Jennifer is spending a few days in Athens before we return for the next leg, when Tony will be joining us.
I know two people who’ll be very happy to have our deckhand back onboard.
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